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THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH 

IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS, 

WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG 

TOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO 

The Author, 

FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON. 



LINCOLN, NEB. : 

JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS, 

1884. 



'01 






A WORD TO THE READER. 



If you wish to read of the going and settling of 
the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., 
in Northwestern Neb., their trials and triumphs, and 
of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and 
valleys, read Chapter I. 

Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter 
II. 

Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III. 

Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chap- 
ter IV. 

Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, 
her climate, school and liquor laws, and Capital, 
Chapter V. ' 

If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua 
Bridge (highest in the world), and Niagara Falls and 
Canada, Chapter VI. 

And now, a word of explanation, that you may 
clearly understand just why this little book — if such 
it may be called, came to be written. We do not 
want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only 
what a Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of 
Nebraska. And to make it more interesting we will 



4 A WORD TO THE READER. 

give our experience with all the fun thrown in, for 
we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and 
learned lessons that may be useful for others to know. 
And simply give everything just as they were, and 
the true color to all that we touch upon, simply stat- 
ing facts as we gathered them here and there during 
a stay of almost three months of going up and down, 
around and across the state from Dakota to Kansas — 
306 miles on the S. C. & P. R. R., 291 on the U.P. 
R. R., and 289 on the B. & M. R. R., the three roads 
that traverse the state from east to west. It is truly an 
unbiased work, so do not chip and shave at what may 
seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you read 

ONLY TRUTH. 

My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the 
colony movement; and he with father, an elder 
brother, and myself were members. My parents, now 
past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing 
the location was not chosen too far north, and all the 
good plans and rules were fully carried out. Father 
made a tour of the state in 1882, and was much pleased 
with it, especially central Nebraska. I was anxious 
to " claim" with the rest that I might have a farm 
to give to my youngest brother, now too young to 
enter a claim for himself — claimants must be twenty- 
one years of age. When he was but twelve years 
old, I promised that for his abstaining from the use 
of tobacco and intoxicating drinks in every shape 
and form, until he was twenty-one years old, I would 



A WORD TO THE READER. 5 

present him with a watch and chain. The time of 
the pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully 
kept his promise thus far, and I knew he would unto 
the end. He had said: "For a gold watch, sister, 
I will make it good for life ;" but now insisted that 
he did not deserve anything for doing that which 
was only right he should do; yet I felt it would 
well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many 
times the price of a gold watch. What could be 
better than to put him in possession of 160 acres 
of rich farming land that, with industry, would 
yield him an independent living? With all this in 
view, I entered with a zeal into the spirit of the 
movement, and with my brothers was ready I 
with the rest. As father had served in the late war, 
his was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, 
invested with the power of attorney, could select and 
enter for him. But our well arranged plans were 
badly spoiled when the location was chosen so tar 
north, and so far from railroads. My parents thou- lit 
they could not go there, and we children felt we 
could not go without them, yet they wrote C. and I 
to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they 
would be with us. When the time of going came C. 
was unavoidably detained at home, but thought he 
would be able to join me in a couple of weeks, and 
as I had friends among the colonists on whom I 
could depend for care it was decided that I should 
go. 



b A WORD TO THE READER. 

When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to 
the writing of a " yellow backed novel," after the 
pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as a matter of 
course planned my book from what I had read in 
other like fiction of the same color. But already 
tired of reading of perfection I never saw, or heard 
tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines were 
to be only common, every-day people, with common 
names and features. The plan, as near as I can re- 
member, was as follows : 

A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in 
the wild west. The squatter is a sort of out-law, with 
two daughters, Mary and Jane, good, sensible girls, 
and each has a lover ; not handsome, but brave and 
true, who with the help of the good dog " Danger," 
often rescues them from death by preying wolves, 
bears, panthers, and prowling Indians., 

The concluding chapter was to be, " The reclaim- 
ing of the father from his wicked ways. A double 
wedding, and together they all abandon the old home, 
and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a 
better life in a new home."' 

Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the 
summer-house, or locked in the library, I would write 
away until I came to a crack mid-way down the slate, 
and there I would always pause to read what I had 
written, and think what to say next. But I would 
soon be called to my neglected school books, and 
then would hastily rub out what I had written, lest 



A WORD TO THE READER. 7 

others would learn of my secret project ; yet the story 
would be re- written as soon as I could again steal 
away. But the crack in my slate was a bridge I 
never crossed with my book. 

Ah ! what is the work that has not its bridges of 
difficulties to cross ? and how often we stop there and 
turning back, rub out all we have done? 

"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, 
thought to write a book in a day, when no one was 
looking. I have since learned that it takes lesson and 
lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not 
learned from books, and then the book will be — only 
a little pamphlet after all. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 



CHAPTER I. 

Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Brad- 
ford, Pa., in Northern Nebraska — A Description of the 
Country in which they located, which embraces the Elk- 
horn, Niobrara and Keya Paha Valleys — Theit First Sum- 
mer's Work and Harvest. 

True loyalty, as well as true charity 3 begins at home. 
Then allow us to begin this with words of. love of 
our own native land, — the state of all that proud Co- 
lumbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and 
dearest to us; the land purchased from the dusky but 
rightful owners, then one vast forest, well filled with 
game, while the beautiful streams abounded with fish. 
But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a peace- 
ful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn ; in 
after years to become the " Keystone/' and one of the 
richest states of all the Union. 

Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among 
her broad mountain ranges, while her valleys yield 
riches to the farmer in fields of golden grain. In- 
deed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil 
that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told — 
affording her children the best of living; but they 
2 



JO THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in until 
the old home can no longer hold them all; and 
some must needs go out from her sheltering arms of 
law, order, and love, and seek new homes in the "far 
west," to live much the same life our forefathers lived 
in the land where William Penn said: "I will found 
a free colony for all mankind/.' 

Away in the northwestern part of the state, in Mc- 
Kean county, a pleasant country village was platted, 
a miniature Philadelphia, by Daniel Kingbury, in or 
about the year 1 848. Lying between the east and 
west branches of the Tunagwant — or Big Cove — 
Creek, and hid away from the busy world by the 
rough, r.ugged hills that surround it, until in 1874, 
when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, 
and in the valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village 
of 500 inhabitants was transformed into a perfect bee- 
hive of 18,000 busy people, buying and selling oil 
and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth, 
until the owners scarce knew what to do with their 
money; and, forgetting it is a long lane that has no 
turning, and a deep sea that has no bottom, lived as 
though there was no bottom to their wells, in all the 
luxury the country could afford. And even to the 
laboring class money came so easily that drillers and 
pumpers could scarce be told from a member of the 
Standard Oil Company. 

Bradford has been a home to many for only a few 
years. Yet years pass quickly by in that land of ex- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 11 

citement : building snug, temporary homes, with every 
convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a 
free, social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place 
where all can be suited. The principal churches are 
well represented ; the theaters and operas well sus- 
tained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who 
live for society and the world can find enough to en- 
gross their entire time and attention, while the wicked 
can find depth enough for the worst of living. We 
have often thought it no wonder that but few were 
allowed to carry away wealth from the oil country; 
for, to obtain the fortune sought, many live a life con- 
trary to their hearts' teachings, and only for worldly 
gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the 
valley " where the waters meet," and surrounded by 
a chain or net-work of hills, that arc called spurs of 
the Alleghany mountains, which are yet well wooded 
by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show in- 
numerable shades and tinges. From among the trees 
many oil derricks rear their "crowned heads" seventy- 
five feet high, which, if not a feature of beauty, is 
quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged hills. 
From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept 
constantly burning, which livens the darkest night. 
Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the 
richest oil fields, and like former oil metropolis has 
produced wealth almost beyond reckoning. Many 
have came poor, and gone rich. But the majority 
have lived and spent their money even more lavish- 



12 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

ingly than it came — so often counting on and spend- 
ing money that never reached their grasp. But as 
the tubing and drills began to touch the bottom of 
this great hidden sea of oil, when flowing wells had 
. to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from terri- 
tory that had once shown the best production, did 
they begin to reckon their living, and wonder where 
all their money had gone. Then new fields were 
tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured 
many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright 
coals for the deluded ones to hover over; and they 
again were compelled to seek new fields of labor and 
living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000 in- 
habitants. 

Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in 
the oil country. • And to show how fortunes in oil are 
made and lost, we quote the great excitement of Nov., 
1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not only 
3t Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were 
crowded with the rich and poor, old and young, strong 
men and weak women, investing their every dollar in 
the rapidly advancing oil. 

Many who had labored hard, and saved close, in- 
vested their all; dreaming with open eyes of a still 
advancing price, when they would sell and realize a 
fortune in a few hours. 

Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating 
themselves upon the wealth the day would bring. 

What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 13 

But as the day ad vanoed, the " bears " began to bear 
down, and all the tossing of the " bulls of the ring" 
could not hoist the bears with the standard on top. 
So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright 
pictures and happy dreams of the morning were all 
gone, and with them every penny, and often more 
than their own were swept. 

Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the 
hardest day they had ever known there. One re- 
marked, that there were not only pale faces there, but 
faces that were green with despair. This was only 
one day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. 
When the market is "dull," quietness reigns, and oil- 
men walk with a measured tread. But when it is 
"up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it. 

Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, 
many determined to at last take Horace Greeley's ad- 
vice and "go west and grow up with the country," 
and banded themselves together under the title of 
"The Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called 
together by C. T. Fulton, of Bradford Pa., in Janu- 
ary, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A col- 
ony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, 
which received so much encouragement by way of in- 
terest shown and number in attendance, that Pompel- 
ion hall was secured for further meetings. Week after 
week they met, every day adding new names to the 
list, until they numbered about fifty. Then came the 
electing of the officers for the year, and the arranging 



14 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

aDd adopting of the constitution and by-laws. Allow 
me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every 
name signed must be accompanied by the paying of 
two dollars as an initiation fee; but soon an assess- 
ment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of which 
entitled one to a charter membership. This money 
was to defray expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land 
to be platted into streets and lots, reserving necessary 
grounds for churches, schools, and public buildings. 
Each charter member was entitled to two lots — a busi- 
ness and residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and 
interest in the residue of remaining lots. Every 
member taking or buying lands was to do so within 
a radius of ten miles of the town site. " The manu- 
facture and sale of spirituous or malt liquors shall 
forever be prohibited as a beverage. Also the keep- 
ing of gambling houses." 

On the 13th of March, when the charter member- 
ship numbered seventy-three, a committee of three 
was sent to look up a location. 

The committee returned April 10th; and 125 mem- 
bers gathered to hear their report, and where they had 
located. When it was known it was in northern Ne- 
braska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the gen- 
eral wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in 
the new county of Brown, an almost unheard of local- 
ity, many were greatly disappointed, and felt they 
could not go so far uorth, and so near the Sioux In- 
dian reservation, which lay across the line in southern 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 15 

Dakota. Indeed, the choosing of the location in this 
unthought-of part of the state, where nothing but gov- 
ernment land is to be had/was a general upsetting of 
many well laid plans of the majority of the people. 
But at last, after many meetings, much talking, plan- 
ning, and voting, transportation was arranged for over 
the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and 
Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and 
the 24th of April appointed for the starting of the first 
party of colonists. 

We wonder, will those of the colony who are 
scattered over the plains of Nebraska, tell, in talking 
over the "meeting times" when anticipation showed 
them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high for 
a settlement and town all their own, tell how they 
felt like eager pilgrims getting ready to launch their 
" Mayflower" to be tossed and landed on a wild waste 
of prairie, they knew not where? 

We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting 
ready," as only those who have left dear old homes, 
surrounded by every strong hold kindred, church, 
school, and our social nature can tie, can realize what 
it is to tear away from these endearments and follow 
stern duty, and live the life they knew the first years 
in their new home would bring them ; and, too, people 
who had known the comforts and luxuries of the easy 
life, that only those who have lived in the oil country 
can know, living and enjoying the best their money 
could bring them, some of whom have followed the 



16 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

oil since its first advent in Venango county, chasing 
it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango 
to Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all 
of Penna.) ; making and losing fortune after fortune, 
until, heart-sick and poorer than when they began, 
they resolve to spend their labor upon something more 
substantial, and where they will not be crowded out 
by Standard or monopoly. 

The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, 
packing done, homes broken up, luncheon prepared 
for a three days' journey, and many sleepless heads 
were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tues- 
day morning to " hurry and get ready." 'Twas a 
cold, cheerless morning; but it mattered not; no one 
stopped to remark the weather ; it was only the going 
that was thought or talked of by the departing ones 
and those left behind. 

And thus we gathered with many curious "ones who 
came only to see the exodus, until the depot and all 
about was crowded. Some laughing and joking, try- 
ing to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were 
companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of 
the " good-bye " hour. The departing ones, going per- 
haps to never more return, leaving those behind whom 
they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father 
and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and 
children were left behind for a season. And oh ! 
the multitude of dear friends formed by long and 
pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 17 

and long letters to promise telling all about the new- 
life iii the new home. 

One merry party of young folks were the center 
of attraction for the hilarity they displayed on this 
solemn occasion, many asking, " Are they as merry 
as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered 
away, saying all the funny things they could summon 
to their tongues' end, and all just to keep back the sobs 
and tears. 

Again and again were the "good byes" said, the 
"God bless you" repeated many times, and, as the 
hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must go. 
True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take 
on its load of human freight to be landed 1 ,300 miles 
from home. Another clasping of hands in the last 
hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we 
were hustled into the train, that soon started with an 
ominous whistle westward; sending back a wave 
of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we received the 
same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones 
left behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad 
farewell in flakes of pure snow, emblematic of the 
pure love of true friends, which indeed is heaven-born. 
Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the 
tears until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying 
the earth with purity, even as souls are purified by 
love. We were glad to see the snow as it seemed 
more befitting the departing hour than bright sun- 
shine. Looking back we saw the leader of the merry 



18 THROUGH SEgRASKA. 

party, and whose eyes then sparkled with assumed joy- 
ousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the 
cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where 
is the reader of hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the 
songs we sing? Around and among the hills our 
train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of. 

But, eager to make the best of the situation, we 
dried our tears and busied ourselves storing away lug- 
gage and lunch baskets, and arranging everything 
for comfort sake. 

This accomplished, those of us who were strangers 
began making friends, which was an easy task, for 
were we not all bound together under one bond whose 
law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share 
the same toil and disadvantages, as well as the same 
pleasures of the new home? 

Then we settled down and had our dinners from 
our baskets. We heard a number complain of a 
lump in their throat that would scarcely allow them 
to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well 
filled with all the good things a lunch basket can be 
stored with. 

When nearing Jamestown, N. Y., we had a good 
view of Lake Chautauqua, now placid and calm, but 
when summer comes will bear on her bosom people 
from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one 
of the most popular summer resorts. The lake is 
eighteen miles long and three miles wide. Then 
down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 19 

Meadville, we saw the best farming land of all seen 
during the day. No hills to speak of after leaving 
Jamestown ; perhaps they were what some would call 
hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, 
they lose their significance. The snow-storm followed 
us to Meadville, where we rested twenty minutes, a num- 
ber of us employing the time in the childish sport of 
snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow- 
ball so near the month of buds and blossoms, and sup- 
posed it would be the last " ball " of the season, unless 
one of Dakota's big snow-storms would slide over the 
line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of Dakota's 
clime. As we were now " all aboard" from the dif- 
ferent points, we went calling among the colonists 
and found we numbered in all sixty-five men, women, 
and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony babe. 
Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, 
despite the sad farewells of the morning, really seemed 
to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and jokes, oranges and 
and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed 
to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing 
gum to the children. Even the canaries sang their 
songs from the cages hung to the racks. Thus our 
first day passed, and evening found us nearing Cleve- 
land — leaving darkness to hide from our view the 
beautiful city and Lake Erie. We felt more than the 
usual solemnity of the twilight hour, when told we 
were going over the same road that was once strewn 
with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head 



20 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

in prayers and tears, such as she never but once ut- 
tered or shed before, and brought to mind lines I then 
had written : 

Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers, 

Your loveliness we'll strew 
From Washington to Cleveland's soil, 

The funeral cortege through. 
In that loved land that gave him birth 

We lay him down to rest, 
'Tis but his mangled form alone, 

His soul is with the blest. 
Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist 

With many a falling tear, 
A mist is over all this land 

For him we loved most dear. 

" Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing ; 

In mournful strains and slow, 
While in the tomb we gently lay, 

Our martyred Garfield low. 

Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lul- 
laby to me, but rather the midnight hoot of the owl, 
so, while others turn seats, take up cushions and place 
them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled down 
to wooing sleep, I Avill busy myself with my pen. 
And as this may be read by many 'who never climbed 
a mountain, as well as those who never trod prairie 
land, I will attempt a description of the land we leave 
behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now 
and then, getting hungry, and thinking " it's most 
time to eat," and goes to hush Mr. Fuller to sleep, 
and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 21 

pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' 
drinking; but Mr. C.'s generosity is making way 
with it in treating all who will take a sup, until he 
is now rinsing the grounds. 

Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep 
away from many who fain would dream of home. 
" Home ! " the word we left behind us, and the word 
we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wan- 
dering ones more than all others, for there are found 
the sweetest if not the richest comforts of life. And 
of home I now would write ; but my heart and hand 
almost fail me. ( I know I cannot do justice to the 
grand old mountains and hills, the beautiful valleys \ 
and streams that have known us since childhood's 
happy days, when we learned to love them with our 
first loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer 
than all others behind. 'Tis not that we do not love 
our homes in the East, but a hope for a better in a land 
we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the 
same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peo- 
pled all parts of the world. 

When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found 
us in Indiana. We were surprised to see the low 
land, with here and there a hill of white sand, on 
which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me 
an ague chill to see so much ground covered with 
water that looked as though it meant to stay. Yet 
this land held its riches, for the farm houses were 
large and well built, and the fields were already quite 



22 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

green. But these were quickly lost sight of for a 
view of Lake Michigan, second in size of the five 
great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U. 
S. Area, 24,000 square miles ; greatest length, 340 
miles, and greatest width, 88 miles. The waters 
seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled 
in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy 
shore, along which we bounded. And, well, we 
could only look and look again, and speed on, with a 
sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quick- 
ly by, only to soon tread the busy, thronged streets 
of Chicago. 

The height of the buildings of brick and stone 
gives the streets a decidedly narrow appearance. A 
party of sight-seers was piloted around by Mr. Gib- 
son, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of 
showing his party every attention. But our time 
was so limited that it was but little of Chicago we 
saw. Can only speak of the great court house, which 
is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. 
The Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fish- 
ing and towing boats, being dressed and rigged by 
busy sailors, was quite interesting. It made us heart- 
sick to see the poor women and children, who were 
anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only 
a mere rag of humanity. 

I shook my head and said, " wouldn't like to live 
here," and was not sorry when we were seated in a 
clean new coach of the S. C. & P. R. R., and rolled 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 23 

out on the C. & N. W. road. Over the switches, 
past the dirty flagmen, with their inseparable pipe 
(wonder if they are the husbands and fathers of the 
coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land 
of Illinois — rolling prairie, we would call it, with 
scarcely a stump or stone. Farmers turning up the 
dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing everywhere 
in the great fields that were fenced about with board, 
barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge 
already showing green. 

The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the 
houses are so far apart; but here there are no hills to 
separate neighbors. 

Crossed the Mississippi river about four p.m., and 
when mid-way over was told, " now, we are in Iowa." 
River rather clear, and about a mile in width. Iowa 
farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old 
grass, which was a novel sight to us. 
i Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How 
queer! it always gets dark just when we come to 
some interesting place we wanted so much to see J 

Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's 
rest, and looking more like a delegation from " Black- 
ville" — from the soot and cinder-dirt — than a " party 
from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies 
at a camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we 
might rise about three o'clock, to see the hills of the 
coal region of Boone county by moonlight. I pressed 
my face close to the window, and peered out into the 



24 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers 
from the East miss the rough, rugged hills of home ! 

The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa, — as one re- 
marked, " not from behind a hill, but right out of 
the ground " — ushering in another beautiful day. 

At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. 
Buchanan, who came to see us across the Missouri 
river, which was done in transfer boats — three coaches 
taken across at a time. As the first boat was leaving, 
we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at 
the dull lead-color of the water. We knew the word 
Missouri signified muddy, and have often read of the 
unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we never 
realize what we read as what we see. We searched 
the sandy shore in vain for a pebble to carry away as 
a memento of the " Big Muddy," but "nary a one" 
could we find, so had to be content with a little sand. 
Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for 
looks, we would not use it for mopping our floors 
with. The river is about three-fourths of a mile in 
width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this 
point, the piers of which are now built, and then the 
boats will be abandoned. When it came our turn to 
cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had a 
grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, 
rolling river, east to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had 
just left, and west to the level lands of Nebraska, 
which were greeted with " three rousing huzzahs for 
the state that was to be the future home of so manv 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 25 

of our party." Yet we knew the merry shouts were 
echoed with sighs from sad hearts within. Some, we 
knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and 
know no other home. 

To those who had come with their every earthly 
possession, and who would be almost compelled to 
stay whether they were pleased or not, it certainly 
was a moment of much feeling. How different with 
those of us who carried our return tickets, and had a 
home to return to ! It was not expected that all would 
be pleased ; some would no doubt return more de- 
voted to the old home than before. 

We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on 
down, just as though they had not helped to bear us 
on their bosom to — we did not know what. How 
little the waves knew or cared ! and never a *ong they 
sang to us ; no rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, 
"silently flow the deep waters." Only the plowing 
through the water of the boat, and the splash of the 
waves against its side as we floated down and across. 
How like the world are the waters ! We cross over, 
and the ripple we cause dies out on the shore ; the 
break of the w r ave is soon healed, and they flow on 
just as before. But, reader, do we not leave foot- 
prints upon the shores that show whence we came, 
and whither we have gone? And where is the voyager 
upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, 
roses and thorns upon the waves as they cross over? 
Grant, Father, that it may be more of the wheat than 
3 



26 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast adrift up- 
on the sea of our life; and though they maybe tempest 
tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not 
lost. 

When we reached the shore, we were again seated 
in our coach, and switched on to Nebraska's terra firma. 

Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., 
as his birth-place, but had left his native state when 
yet a boy, and had wandered westward, and now re- 
sides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger agent 
of the S. C. & P. R. R. Co., which office we after- 
ward learned he fills with true dignity and a generos- 
ity becoming the company he represents. He spoke 
with tenderness of the good old land of Pennsylvania, 
and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had 
just come from there. Indeed, there was much kind- 
ness expressed for " the colony going to the Niobrara 
country " all the way along, and many were the com- 
pliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; 
we flattered ourselves that we did well sustain the old 
family honors of " The Keystone. 7 ' While nearing 
Blair, the singers serenaded Mr. B. with " Ten thous- 
and miles away" and other appropriate songs in 
which he joined, and then with an earnest a God 
bless you/' left us. Reader, I will have to travel 
this road again, and then I will tell you all about it. 
I have no time or chance to write now. The day is 
calm and bright, and more like a real pic-nic or 
pleasure excursion than a day of travel to a land of 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 27 

"doubt." When the train stopped any time at a 
station, a number of us would get off, walk about, 
and gather half-unfolded cottonwood and boxelder 
leaves until "all aboard" was sung out, and we were 
on with the rest — to go calling and visit with our 
neighbors until the next station was reached. This 
relieved the monotony of the constant going, and 
rested us from the jog and jolt of the cars. 

One of the doings of the day was the gathering of 
a button string; mementos from the colony folks, 
that I might remember each one. I felt I was going 
only to soon leave them — they to scatter over the 
plains, and I to return perhaps never to again see 
Nebraska, and 'twas with a mingling of sadness with 
all the fun of the gathering, that I received a button 
from this one, a key or coin from that one, and 
scribbled down the name in my memorandum. I 
knew they would speak to me long after we had sep- 
arated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they 
said as they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it 
was only child's play. 

Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as oblig- 
ing as ever, until we reached Fremont, where he 
turned back to look after more travelers from the 
East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S. C. & 
P. R. R. He received the thanks of all for the kind- 
ness and patience he displayed in piloting a party of 
impatient emigrants through a three days' journey. 

Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and 



28 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

was going to help the claim hunters, took pity on our 
empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly had a num- 
ber to take dinner at West Point and supper at 
Neligh with him. It was a real treat to eat a meal 
from a well spread table again. 

/I must say I was disappointed ; I had fancied the 
prairies would already be in waving grass; instead, 
they were yet brown and sere with the dead grass of 
last year excepting where they had been run over 
with fire, and that I could scarcely tell from plowed 
ground — it has the same rough appearance, and the 
soil is so very darkA Yet, the farther west we went, 
the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song 
'and sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol " hid his 
smiling face from us when near Clearwater, and what 
a grand "good night" he bade us! and what beauty 
he spread out before us, going down like a great ball 
of fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and 
windows in houses far away ! Indeed, the windows 
were all we could see of the houses. 

We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new 
to us. Lizzie saw this, Laura that, and Al, if told to 
look at the lovely sunset (but who had a better taste 
for wild game) would invariably exclaim : Oh ! the 
prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish 
for his gun to try his luck. Thus nothing was lost,, 
but everything enjoyed, until we stopped at a small 
town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to 
be cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see 



THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 29 

the party, of u tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the 
East are termed by some, but were soon shown that 
their company was not congenial and led out of the 
car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out 
of the way ; so I hid between the seats and held my 
ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west? I thought; 
but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving 
our tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus 
ended our first battle with the much dreaded cow- 
boys ; yet we were assured by others that they were 
not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would 
not be guilty of such an act. 

About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at 
our last station, Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was 
switched on a side-track, doors locked, blinds pulled 
down, and there we slept until the dawning of our 
first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had 
been apprised of our coming, and had made comfort- 
able the depot and a baggage car with a good fire; 
that the men who had been traveling in other coaches 
and could not find room in the two hotels of the 
town, could find a comfortable resting place for the 
night. 

We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and 
the salubrious air of the morning put us in fine spir- 
its, and we flocked from the car like birds out of a 
cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their 
nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the 
colonists expected to find their nests of homes. 



30 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, 
and listened to a lark that sang us a sweet serenade 
from amid the grass close by ; but we had to chase it 
up with a " shoo," and a flying clod before we could see 
the songster. Then by way of initiation into the 
life of the " wild west," a mark was pinned to a tel- 
egraph pole; and would you believe it, reader, the 
spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already 
that we took right hold of a big revolver, took aim, 
pulled the trigger, and after the smoke had cleared 
away, looked — and — well — we missed paper and pole, 
but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots 
were sown that followed. 

A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about 
to see the " pack of Irish and German emigrants/' ex- 
pected, while others who knew what kind of people 
were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. 
Foremost among these were Messrs. John and James 
Skirving, merchants and stockmen, who, with their 
welcome extended an invitation to a number to 
breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped 
upon the scales to note the effect the climate would 
have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote down 94 
lbs., I thought, " if my weight increases to 100 lbs., 
I will sure come again and stay." Then we scattered 
to look around until breakfast was Teady. We es- 
pied a great red- wheeled something — I didn't know 
what, but full of curiosity went to see. 

A gentleman standing near asked : " Are you ladies 
of the colony that arrived last night?" 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 31 

" Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is." 

" Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at 
one time." 

"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western 
sulky." 

It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what 
the farming implements were we saw along the way, 
by these new farmers. But we went to breakfast at 
Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as 
ox-plows were concerned. 

/What a breakfast ! and how we did eat of the 
bread, ham, eggs, honey, and everything good. Just 
felt as though we had never been to breakfast before, 
and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite 
must have made an attack upon us already, for soon 
after weighing ourselves to see if the climate had af- 
fected a change yet, the weight slipped on to — reader, 
I promised you I would tell you the truth and the 
whole truth ; but it is rather hard when it comes right 
down to the point of the pen to write ninety-six. 
And some of the others that liked honey better than I 
did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now 
what do you think of a climate like that J 

But we must add that we afterwards tested the dif- 
ference in the scales, and in reality we had only 
eaten — I mean we had only gained one and a half 
pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Din- 
ner and supper were the same in place, price, and 
quality, but not in quantity. 



32 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

"When we went to the car for our luggage, we found 
Mr. Clark lying there trying to sleep. 

u Home-sick ?" we asked. 

" INo, but I'm nigh sick abed ; didn't get any sleep 
last night." 

No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep 
and dream of home. 

First meeting of the N. M. A. C. was held on a 
board pile near the depot, to appoint a committee to 
secure transportation to the location. 

The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had 
been noised abroad through the papers, and people 
were coming from every direction to secure a home 
near them, and the best of the land was fast being 
claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to 
be oif on the morrow. 

The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in 
seeing what was to be seen in and about Stuart, ren- 
dering a unanimous " pleased " in the evening. Mr. 
John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms 
above his store to the use of the colonists, and the la- 
dies and children with the husbands went to house- 
keeping there Friday evening. 

Saturday morning. Pleasant. All is bustle and 
stir to get the men started to the location, and at 
last with oxen, horses, mules, and ponies, eight teams 
in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded with 
the big tent and provisions, they were off. While 
the ladies who were disappointed at being left behind; 
merrily waved each load away. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 33 

But it proved quite fortunate that we were left 
behind, as Saturday was the last of the pleasant days. 
Sunday was cool, rained some, and that western wind 
commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we 
were keepers of the Sabbath by attending services at 
the one church of the town. Bat, as the morning was 
unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and 
wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our 
safe arrival. Many were the letters sent post haste 
from Stuart the following day to anxious ones in the 
East. 

In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk 
across the prairie, about a quarter of a mile, to the 
Elkhorn river. When we reached the river I looked 
round and exclaimed : Why ! what town is that ? 
completely turned already and didn't know the town 
I had just left. 

The river has its source about fifteen miles south- 
west of Stuart, and is only a brook in width here, 
yet quite deep and very swift. The water is a smoky 
color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with 
hook and line, spears and seine are used instead. 

Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it 
is very crooked, yet we do not wonder that the water 
does not know where to run, there is no "up or 
down " to this country ; it is all just over to us ; so 
the streams cut across here, and wind around there, 
making angles, loops, and turns, around which the 
water rushes, boiling and bubbling, — cross I guess 



34 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

because it has so many twists and turns to make ; don't 
know what else would make it flow so swiftly in this 
level country. But hear what Prof. Aughey says : 

" The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful 
streams of the state. It rises west of Holt and Elk- 
horn counties. Near its source the valley widens to 
a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are 
low and often inappreciable. The general direction 
of the main river approximates to 250 miles. Its di- 
rection is southeast. It empties into the Platte in the 
western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of 
its course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It 
has considerable fall, and its steady, large volume of 
waters will render it a most valuable manufacturing 
region." 

We had not realized that as we went west from the 
Missouri river we made a constant ascent of several 
feet to the mile, else we would not have wondered at 
the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the 
water is owing to its being gathered from innumera- 
ble lakelets ; while the smoky color is from the dead 
grass that cover its banks and some places its bed. 

Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod 
house, and found it quite a decent affair. Walls three 
feet thick, and eight feet high ; plastered inside with 
native lime, which makes them smooth and white ; 
roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of 
sod. The lady of the house tells me the house is 
warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had a drink 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 35 

of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, 
and willed up with barrels with the ends knocked out. 

The common way of drawing water is by a rope, 
swung over a pulley on a frame several feet high, 
which brings to the top a zinc bucket the shape and 
length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wo6den bottom. 
In the bottom is a hole over which a little trap door 
or valve is fastened with leather hinges. You swing 
the bucket over a trough, and let it down upon a peg 
fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves the 
the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed 
awkward to us at first, but it is a cheap pump, and 
one must get used to a good many inconveniences in a 
new country. But we who are used to dipping water 
from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. 
Am told the water is easily obtained, and generally 
good ; though what is called hard water. 
/The country is almost a dead level, without a tree 
or bush in sight. But when on a perfect level the 
prairie seems to raise around you, forming a sort of 
dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills 
fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly.] Farm 
houses, mostly sod, dot the surrounding country. 

Monday, 30th. Cool, with some rain, high wind, 
and little sunshine. For the sake of a quiet place 
where I could write, I sought and found a very pleas- 
ant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirv- 
ing, of whom I have before spoken, and who had but 
lately brought his family from Jefferson City, Iowa. 



36 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Tuesday. A very disagreeable day; driving rain, 
that goes through everything, came down all day. Do 
wonder how the claim hunters in camp near the Keya 
Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with noth- 
ing but their tent for shelter. 

Wednesday. About the same as yesterday, cold 
and wet ; would have snowed, but the wind blew the 
flakes to pieces and it came down a fine rain. 

Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I 
wonder if it rains at home. 

Thursday. And still it rains and blows! 

Friday. A better day. Last night the wind blew 
so hard that I got out of bed and packed my satchel 
preparatory to being blown farther west, and dressed 
ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to 
me I scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in 
readiness, I lay me down and quietly waited the go- 
ing of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in the 
morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly 
calmed, and I hastened to view the ruins of the storm 
of the night, but found nothing had been disturbed, 
only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise 
than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern 
people seem to make more noise about the wind than 
western people do. Don't think that I was fright- 
ened ; there is nothing like being ready for emergen- 
cies ! I had heard so much of the storms and winds 
of the West, that I half expected a ride on the clouds 
before I returned. The clouds cleared away, and the 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 37 

sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the 
mud so dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil 
is so mixed with sand that the mud is never more 
than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon dried. 
When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but 
not a dirty dust. A number of the colony men re- 
turned to-day. . 

Saturday. Pleasant. The most of the men have 
returned. The majority in good heart and looking 
well despite the weather and exposure they have been 
subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are 
discouraged and think they will look for lands else- 
where. 

They found the land first thought of so taken that 
they had to go still farther northwest — some going 
as far west as Holt creek, and so scattered that but 
few of them can be neighbors. This is a disap- 
pointment not looked for, they expected to be so lo- 
cated that the same church and school would serve 
them all. 

Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart 
in numbers daily, through Avind and rain, all going 
in that direction, to locate near the colony. The sec- 
tion they had selected for a town plot had also been 
claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists 
might have located more in a body had they gone 
about their claim-hunting more deliberately. And 
the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which 
was purchased with colony funds, and a few individ- 



38 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

ual dollars, proved to be a poor bargain. When first 
pitched there was a small rent near the top, which the 
wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. 
But the wind brought the tent to the ground, and it 
was rightly mended, and hoisted in a more sheltered 
spot. But, alas ! down came the tent again, and as 
many as could found shelter in the homes of the old 
settlers. 

Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, 
and laid four poles in the shape of a pen, or made 
signs of improvement in some way, and then went 
east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land 
office and had the papers taken out for their claims. 
Others, thinking there was no need of such hurried 
precautions, returned to Stuart to spend the Sabbath, 
and lost their claims. One party selected a claim, 
hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just 
in time to see a stranger sign his name to the neces- 
sary documents making it his. 

Will explain more about claim-taking when I have 
learned more about it. 

Sunday, 6 May. / Bright and warm. Would not 
have known there had been any rain during the past 
week by the ground, which is nicely dried, and walk- 
ing pleasant, j 

/'A number of us attended Sunday school and preach- 
ing in the forenoon, and were well entertained and 
pleased with the manner in which the Sunday school 
was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 39 

quite home-like. We were glad to know there were 
earnest workers even here, where we were told the 
Sabbath was not observed ; and but for our attend- 
ance here would have been led to believe it were so. 
Teams going, and stores open to people who come 
many miles to do their trading on this day; yet it is 
done quietly and orderly. 

The minister rose and said, with countenance beam- 
ing with earnestness: "I thank God there are true 
christians to be found along this Elkhorn valley, and 
these strangers who are with us to-day show by their 
presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house 
will always be sought and found by his people." 
fWhile our hearts were filled with thanksgiving, that 
the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto 
him we can look for care and protection at all 
times. 

In the evening we again gathered, and listened to 
a sermon on temperance, which, we were glad to know, 
fell upon a temperance people, as far as we knew our 
brother and sister colonists. After joining in " What 
a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling re- 
freshed from " The fountain that freely flows for all," 
and walked home under the same stars that made 
beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we 
had began to measure the distance from home already, 
and did not dare to think how far we were from its 
shelter. 
/ But, as the stars are, so is God high over all ; and 



40 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

the story of his love is just the same the wide world 
over.y 

Monday. Pleasant. Colonists making preparation 
to start to the location to-morrow, with their families. 
Some who have none but themselves to care for, have 
started. 

Tuesday. Rains. Folks disappointed. 

Wednesday. Rains and blows. Discouraging. 

Thursday. Blows and rains. Very discouraging. 

The early settlers say they never knew such a 
long rain at this season. Guess it is raining every- 
where; letters are coming telling of a snow in some 
p%ces nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April ; 
of hard frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is 
very discouraging for the colony folks to be so de- 
tained ; but they are thankful they are snug in comfort- 
able quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely 
know where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live 
in until they can build their log or sod houses. They 
are learning that those who left their families behind 
until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I 
cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have 
met with, yet I am greatly in sympathy with them. 

With the first letter received from home came this 
word from father : " I feel that my advanced years will 
not warrant me in changing homes." Well, that set- 
tled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the 
land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and 
know all, now that I am here, for history's sake, and 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 41 

intend going to the colony grounds with the rest. 
Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, 
Dawson county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I 
can, and he will show me some of the beauties of 
the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I have 
done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. 
show me every kindness, and in such a way that I am 
made to feel perfectly at home; in turn I try to assist 
Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give every care 
and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started 
on my journey breathing the prayer that God would 
take me into His own care and keeping, and raise up 
kind friends to make the way pleasant. I trusted all 
to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and 
protection as one of their own. / Thus the time passes 
pleasantly, Avhile I eat and sleep with an appetite 
and soundness I never knew before-/— though I fancy 
Mrs. S.'s skill as a cook has a bearing on my appetite, 
as well as the climat^J— yet every one experiences an 
increase of appetite, and also of weight. One of our 
party whom we had called "the pale man" for want 
of his right name, had thrown aside his " soft beaver" 
and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero 
traded his complexion to the winds for a bronze, and 
gained eight pounds in the eleven days he has been 
out taking the weather just as it came, and wherever 
it found him. 

Friday. Rain has ceased and it shows signs of 
clearing oft'. 
4 



42 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

It does not take long for ground and grass to 
dry off enough for a prairie fire, and they have been 
seen at distances all around Stuart at night, remind- 
ing us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The 
prairies look like new mown hay -fields; but they are 
not the hay-fields of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody 
grass that must be burnt off, to allow the young grass 
to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have 
seen some very poor and neglected looking cattle 
that have lived all winter upon the prairie with- 
out shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so long a 
winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and 
now have to drive their cattle out to the " divides/' — 
hills between rivers — to pasture on the prairie; and 
this cold wet weather has been yery hard on them, 
many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel 
sight, to watch a little girl about ten years old herding 
sheep near town; handling her pony with a masterly 
hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to scat- 
ter out, and driving them, into the corral.) I must add 
that I have also seen some fine looking cattle. I must 
tell you all the bad with the good. 

During all this time, and despite the disagreeable 
weather, emigrants keep up the line of march through 
Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara country, travel- 
ing in their " prairie schooners," as the great hoop- 
covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed 
their every worldly possession, and have room to pile 
in a large family on top. Sometimes a sheet-iron 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 43 

stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon, which, 
when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe 
through a hole in the covering. Those who do not 
have this convenience carry wood with them and 
build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking 
utensils are generally packnd in a box at the side 
or front. The coverings of the wagons are of all 
shades aud materials ; muslin, ducking, ticking, over- 
all stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used 
they are often patched over the top with their oil- 
cloth table covers. The women and children gen- 
erally do the driving, while the men and boys bring 
up the rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from 
poor weak calves that look ready to lay them down 
arid die, to fine, fat animals, that show they have had 
a good living where they came from. 
''Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent 
and show a good education/ One lady we talked with 
was from Michigan ; had four bright little children 
with her, the youngest about a year old ; had come 
from Missouri Valley in the wagon ; but told us of 
once before leaving Michigan and trying life in Texas; 
but not being suited with the country, had returned, 
as they were now traveling, in only a wagon, spend- 
ing ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse 
both, while her husband attended to several valuable 
Texas horses. 

Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; 
been on the way three weeks." 



44 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

" How can you travel through such weather ? " 

"Oh ! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking 
cover that keeps out the rain, and when the wind 
blows very hard we tie the wagon down." 

"Never get sick?" 

"No." 

"Not even a cold?" 

"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started." 

" How many miles can you go in a day ?" 

" We average about twenty." 

The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish 
brown, but they look healthy, happy, and contented. 
Thus you see, there is a needed class of people in the 
West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go 
whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class 
in a great measure we owe the opening up of the 
western country. 

Saturday morning. Cloudy and threatened more 
storm, but cleared off nicely after a few stray flakes of 
"beautiful snow" had fallen. All getting ready to 
make a start to the colony location. Hearing that 
Mr. Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the 
rest with a team of oxen, I engaged a passage in his 
wagon. I wanted to go West as the majority go, and 
enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all '; so, 
much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brim- 
med sombrero, and left Stuart about one o'clock, 
perched on the spring seat of a double bed wagon, in 
company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 45 

last week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, 
and is accompanied by Mr. Boggs, who I judge has 
passed his three score years. 

Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have 
to tent out, Mrs. S.gave me a loaf of bread, some but- 
ter, meat, and stewed currants to bring along ; but 
the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off 
the currants. 

I Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the 
plains of Nebraska behind oxen; of course they do 
not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I think they Bimply 
walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along. 
Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie 
schooner," for the wind does not forget to blow, and 
it is a little cool. 

Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, 
"Brock and Broady," and as they were taken from 
the herd but yesterday, and have not been under the 
yoke long, they are rather untutored ; but Mr. L. is 
tutoring them with a long lash whip, and I think he 
will have them pretty well trained by the time we 
reach the end of our journey. 

"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and 
dear only knows how far we have got to go. Don't turn 
'round so, you'll upset the wagon ! " We are going di- 
rectly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows 
running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old 
wagon train road running from Omaha to the Black 
Hills. It runs directly through Stuart, but I took it 



4() THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. 
I see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just 
drive along side and make a new road which soon 
wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to pay or 
work done on the roads here, and never a stone to 
cause a jolt. The jolting done is caused in going* 
from one rut to another. 

Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading 
through a two-mile stretch of wet ground, all stand- 
ing in water. No signs of habitation, not even Stu- 
art to be seen from this point. 

Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or han- 
dle ; I'll keep a look out and perhaps I will find one. 

Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in 
plain view. There must be a raise and fall in the 
ground that I cannot notice in going over it. Land 
is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. 
Away to our right are a few little houses, sod and 
frame. While to the left, 16 miles away, are to be 
seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves. 

The walking is so good here that I think I will 
relieve the — oxen of about 97 pounds. ' You see I 
have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy walk- 
ing over this old road, gathering dried grasses and 
pebbles, wishing they could speak and tell of the 
long emigrant trains that had tented at night by the 
wayside; of travelers going west to find new homes 
away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight 
trains carrying supplies to the Indian agencies and 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 47 

the Black Hills; of the buffalo stampede and Indian 
" whoop " these prairies had echoed with, but which 
gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and 
now under its protection, we go over the same road in 
perfect safety, where robbery and massacres have no 
doubt been committed. Oh ! the change of time! 

Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you be- 
lieve it, here's a real little hill with a small stream at 
the bottom. Ash creek it is called, but I skip 
it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the 
clear water and gather a pebble from its gravelly 
bed, I answer J. G. Holland in Kathrina with: 
Surely, "the crystal brooks are sweeter for singing 
to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in 
their foam," and thought what a source of delight this 
little stream is to the many that pass this way. 
Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the hill- 
side, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie 
had reigned within this castle of the West, the roof 
now tumbled in and the walls falling. 

Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and 
plenty of time to think as the oxen jog alon^, and I 
bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for your sake, 
reader. 

Only a little way from the creek, and we pass 
the first house that stands near the road, and that has 
not been here long, for it is quite new. The white- 
haired children playing about the door will not bother 
their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run 



48 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

off for awhile at least, as there is no other house in 
sight, and the boundless prairie is their dooiyard. 
Happy mother ! Happy children ! 

Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read 
what I have written of the leave taking of home; 
Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back memories of 
the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very 
truly written," and Mrs. G. whispers, " I must have 
one of your books, Sims." All this is encourag'ng, 
and helps me to keep up brave heart, a^id put forth 
every effort to the work I have begun, and which is 
so much of an undertaking for me. 

"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!" 

"Is what?" 

" Why, that stick for a whip-handle." 

I had been watching all the way along, and it was 
the only stick I had seen, and some poor unfortunate 
had lost it. 

The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had 
better stop over night at this old log-house, eighteen 
miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to the landlord 
about lodging. I view the prospects without and 
think of way-side inns I have read of in story, but never 
seen before, and am not sorry when he returns and 
reports : u already crowded with travelers," and flour- 
ishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady, though 
tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, 
and soon we are nearing another little stream called 
Willow creek, named from the few little willow 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 49 

bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen 
all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, 
and as there is no bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. 
is afraid the oxen are thirsty and will go straight for 
the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just 
shut my eyes until we are on the other side. 

There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie 
chicken eggs and goes to secure some for a novelty, 
but changes his mind and thinks he'll not disturb 
that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the 
wagon quite crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds 
gathering in the west, obscure the setting sun, which 
is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of 
the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so 
want a sunset feast this evening, for I could view it 
over the bluffy shores of the Niobrara river. Getting 
dark again, just when the country is growing most 
interesting. 

Mr. B, and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain 
sure;" I consult my barometer and it indicates fair 
weather. If it is correct J will name it Yennor, if not 
I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°, 
think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy 
cloth suit, mohair ulster and gossamer is scarcely 
sufficient to keep the chilly wind out. 

One mile further on and darkness overtakes us 
while sticking on the banks of Rock creek, a stream 
some larger than Willow creek, and bridged with 
poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but 



50 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

the oxen, almost tired out, seemed unequal for 
the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses the whip, while 
Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a 
little rock that juts out of the hill — first stone or rock 
seen since we entered the state, and pity the oxen, 
but there they stick. Ah! here is a man coming 
with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will 
help us up the hill. " Can you give me a lift ?" Mr. L. 
asks. " I'm sorry I can't help you gentlemen, but that 
oiF-horse is terribly weak. The other horse is all right, 
but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that 
off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a 
weak horse. While we come to . the conclusion that 
he has not been west long enough to learn the ways 
of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned 
he was lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes 
Mr. Eoss and Mr. Connelly who have walked 
all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the 
men push, but not a foot gained; wagon only settling 
firmer into the mud. The men debate and wonder 
what to do. " Why not unload the trunks and carry 
them up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, some- 
one laughed at my suggestion, but no sooner said 
than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk with, " That's 
it — only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," 
and a goodly part of the load is carried to the 
top of the hill by the men, while I carry the guns. 
How brave we are growing, and how determined to 
go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 51 

When within a mile and a half of the river, those 
of us who can, walk, as it is dangerous driving after 
dark, and we take across, down a hill, across a little 
canyon, at the head of which stands a little house 
with a light in the window that looks inviting, but 
on we go, across a narrow channel of the river, on to 
an island covered with diamond willow bushes, and a 
few trees. See a light from several "prairie schoon- 
ers " that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which 
make a very good harbor for these ships of the west. 

"What kind of a shanty is this?" 

" Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the 
merchant doesn't think worth while to light up in 
the evening." 

On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of 
bushes, and so tired I can scarcely take another step. 

"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to 
look in at the open door of a double log house, on a 
company of people who are gathered about an organ 
and singing, " What a friend we have in Jesus." 

" No, just across the river where you see that light." 

Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in 
Aunty Slack's hotel about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and 
so glad to get to somevjltcrc. 

Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, 
left Stuart shortly after we did, with Mrs. and Miss 
lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his hack, but soon 
passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached 
here before dark. 



52 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Three other travelers were here for the night, a 
Keya Paha man, a Mr. Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. 
Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa. 

"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks 
of her husband. 

"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with 
Willie Taylor, and Mrs. M. and Mrs. Taylor rode 
in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon. Mr. 
Barnwell and several others made a start with his team 
of oxen. But Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a 
pound, so he will have to take them back to the 
owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had ex- 
pected to all start at the same time, and perhaps tent 
out at night. A good supper is refreshing to tired 
travelers, but it is late before we get laid down to 
sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a 
new apartment just erected last week, and built of 
cedar logs with a sod roof, while the men throw 
themselves down on blankets and comforts on the 
floor, while the family occupies the old part. 

About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on 
the sod shingles of the roof over head, which by 
dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently pouring 
down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general 
uprising, and driving them from the room. It 
won't leak on our side of the house, so let's sleep 
awhile longer; but just as we were dropping into the 
arms of Morpheus, spat ! came a drop on our pillow, 
which said, " get up !" in stronger terms than mother 



THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 53 

ever did. I never saw a finer shower inside a house 
before. What a crowd we made for the little log 
house, 14x16 feet, built four years ago, a>"d which 
served as kitchen, dining room, chamber, and parlor, 
and well crowded with furniture, without the addi- 
tion of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the fam- 
ily, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a 
daughter and son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads 
in all to be sheltered by this old sod roof made by a 
heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the comb, 
which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, 
then brush and dried grass, and then the sod. The 
walls are well chinked and whitened. The door is 
the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men 
have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they 
enter and leave the house. Mr. Boggs invariably 
strikes a horse shoe suspended to the ceiling with his 
head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the 
swing over us. The roof being old and well .settled, 
keeps it from leaking badly; but Mrs. S. says there is 
danger of it sliding off or caving in. Dear me! I 
feel like crawling under the table for protection. 

Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the 
full name of R. Stone Wiggins ! Have a mind to 
throw him into the river by way of immersion, but 
fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict 
another storm, so will just hang him on the wall out 
side to be sprinkled. 

The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned 



54 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

out, organ, sewiug machiue, lunch baskets, and bed- 
ding protected as well as can be with carpet and rub- 
ber coats. 

How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get 
soaked. My butter and meat was lost out on the 
prairie or in the river — hope it is meat cast adrift for 
some hungry traveler — and some one has used my loaf 
fdr a cushion, and how sad its countenance ! Don't 
care if it does get wet! So I just pin my straw hat to 
the wall and allow it to rain on, as free from care as 
any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted 
experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather 
dampening way. Some find seats on the bed, boxes, 
chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while the rest stand. 
We pass the day talking of homes left behind and 
prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in 
for dinner, and went again to their wagons tucked 
around in the canyons. 

The house across the river is also crowded, and 
leaking worse than the hotel where we are stopping. 
Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter we have as 
we think of the travelers unprotected in only their 
wagons, and wonder where the rest of our party are. 

The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the 
sound of the waters makes us even more homesick. 

"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," 
we repeated, and every thing else that had a jingle of 
comfort in it ; but oftener heard, " I do wish it would 
stop!" "When will it clear off?" "Does it always 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 55 

rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of 
times, only to cloud up again, and so the day went as 
it came, leaving sixteen souls crowded in the cabin to 
spend the night as best we could. Just how was a 
real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. 
Header, I wish you were here, seated on this spring 
wagon seat with me by the stove, I then would be 
spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read 
Mark Twain's " Roughing It ? " or " Innocents 
Abroad?" well, there are a few innocents abroad, 
just now, rouyhing it to their hearts' content. 

The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, 
have laid them down crosswise on the bed. The 
daughter's husband finds sleep among some blankets, 
on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost 
sick, sticks his head under the table and feet under 
the cupboard and snores. Mrs. Ross occupies the 
only rocker — there, I knew she would rock on Mr. 
Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just 
behind her ! Double up, Mr. P., and stick your 
knees between the rockers and you'll stand a better 
chance. 

If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilinan, or even a 
chicken, you might perch on the side of that box. To 
sleep in that position would be dangerous ; dream of 
falling sure and might not be all a dream, and then, 
Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor 
man! We do pity him ! Six feet two inches tall; too 
much to get all of himself fixed in a comfortable posi- 



56 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

tion at one time. Now bolt upright on a chair, now 
stretched out on the floor, now doubled up ; and now 
lie is on two chairs looking like the last grasshopper 
of the raid. Hush! Lizzie, you'll disturb the thir- 
teen sleepers. 

Mr. Lewis . has turned the soft side of a chair up 
for a pillow before the stove, and list — he snores a 
dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me. 

Mr. Truesdal is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in 
behind the stove on a pile of kindling wood. I'm 
afraid he will black his ears on the pots and kettles 
that serve as a back ground for his head, but better 
that than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is 
seated on an inverted wooden pail, will loose his head 
in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if he doesn't 
stop nodding so far back. 

Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake 
again and read a few more words of Kathrina. 

Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Ver- 
die, lie down on the bed. "That table is better to eat 
off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and crawls down to 
claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been 
driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and 
by way of a jog, give the stove a punch with a stick 
of wood, every now and then ; casting a sly glance to 
see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep, because we 
are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a 
rather scarce article just now. But can't be helped. 
The feathery side of these boards are down, the covers 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 57 

all wet in the other room, and these sleepers must be 
kept warm. 

- Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room 
whereon to place her feet and take a little sleep ! 
Now Mrs. R.'sfeet are not large if she does weigh over 
two hundred pounds; small a plenty ; but not quite 
as small as the unoccupied space, that's all. 

Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; 
wonder what ails my eyes; feels like there's sand in 
them. I wink, and wink, but the oftener, the longer. 
Do believe I'm getting sleepy too ! What will I do? 
To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove ; 
no room on the floor without danger of kicks from 
booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get up on the table, 
Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I leave 
the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully real- 
izing that "necessity is the mother of invention," and 
that western people do just as they can, mostly. So 

All cuddled up together, 
In a little weenty heap, 
I double up my pillow 
And laugh myself to sleep. 
I know 3 t ou will not blame me 
If I dream of home so bright — 
I'll see you in the morning 
So now a kind " good night " 

As there is no room for the muses to visit me here 
I'll not attempt further poetizing but go to sleep and 
dream I am snug in my own little bed at home. Glad 
5 



58 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

lather and mother do not know where their daughter 
is seeking rest for to-night. 

" Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to 
set the table for breakfast/' and I start up, rubbing 
my eyes, wishing I could sleep longer, and wonder- 
ing why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't al- 
ways slept on a table ? 

I only woke once during the night, and as the 
lamp was left burning, could see that Mrs. R, had 
found a place for her feet, and all were sound asleep. 
Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are 
surely three good opiates which, taken together, will 
make one sleep in almost any position. Do wonder 
if " Mark" ever slept on an extension table when he 
was out west ? Don't think he did, believe he'd use 
the dirty floor before he'd think of the table ; so I 
am ahead in this chapter. 

Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I 
think no one will ever regret the time spent in the 
little log house at "Morrison's bridge," and cheer 
fully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two 
nights' lodging, only as we jogged along through the 
cold next day, all thought they would have had a 
bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor, to 
sleep. 

Monday morning. Cold, cloudy, and threatening 
more rain. Start about eight o'clock for the Keya 
Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies ahead, while the 
walkers stay with our " span of brindles" to help 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 59 

push them up the hill, aud I walk to relieve them of 
my weight. 

But we have reached the table-land, aud as I have 
made my impress in the sand and mud of this hill of 
science, I gladly resume my seat in the wagon with 
Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned 
on over her shawl. Boo ! The wind blows cold, and 
it sprinkles and tries to snow, and soon I too am al- 
most freezing with all my wraps on, my head well 
protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish 
I was to start on such a trip without good warm mit- 
tens. " Let's get back on the trunks, Mrs. G., and turn 
our backs to the wind." But that is not all sufficient 
and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while 
walking and kindly offers it to me, and I right will- 
ingly crawl into it, and pull it up over my ears, and 
draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try hard to think 
I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this 
bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can 
of the country as I pass along. Yet, it is just the 
same all the way, with the only variation of, from 
level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a tree, 
bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old 
train road for several miles and then left it, and trav- 
eled north over an almost trackless prairie. During 
the day's travel we met but two parties, both of whom 
were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take 
claims in that neighborhood. Passed close to two log 
houses just being built, and two squads of tenters who 



60 THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 

peered out at us with their sunburnt faces looking as 
contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with 
their situation. 

The oxen walked right along, although the load 
was heavy and the ground soft, and we kept up a 
steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near 
where most of the colonists had selected their claims, 
and as we neared their lands, the country took on a 
better appearance. 

The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting 
rain from clouds that look to be resting upon the 
earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and very dis- 
agreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. J was 
determined, if possible, to make the trip without 
taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept up the fun until 
we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask : 
"How much farther do we have to go? When will 
we reach there?" Until we were ashamed to ask 
again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and 
a plow, and asked no more questions. 

"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do be- 
lieve that is Mrs. Ross with Lizzie and Laura standing 
at the door. I'll just wave them a signal of distress, 
and they will be ready to receive us with open 
arms." 

And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. NewelPs 
door, where a married brother lives. They gave us 
a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner. After 
we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 61 

farther on to the banks of the Key a Paha river, which 
is 18 miles from the Niobrara and 48 from Stuart, ar- 
riving there about four p.m. 

Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party 
expected to make their home until they could get 
their tents up, received us very kindly, making us 
feel quite at home. 

Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and 
her table was well supplied Avith good reading mat- 
ter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent" to read 
while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. 
A. Lavely: 

• ' The sweetest songs are never sung ; 
The fairest pictures never hung ; 
The fondest hopes are never told — 
They are the heart's most cherished gold." 

They were like a voice directly from the pleasant 
days of last summer, when the author with his fam- 
ily was breathing mountain air at DuBois City, Pa., 
when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and 
Mrs L. added her beautiful children's stories. 

He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just 
after composing them, and now I find them in print 
away on the very frontier of civilization. How little 
writers know how far the words they pen for the 
public to read, will reach out ! Were they prophetic 
for our colonists? 

Tuesday, loth of May, dawned without a cloud, 
and how bright everything looks when the clouds 



62 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

have rolled away. Why, the poor backward buds 
look as though they would smile right open. What a 
change from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I 
could tell you all about my May day, but the story is 
a long one — too long for the pages of my little book. 

And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with 
baskets to go with me to gather what we can find in the 
way of flowers and leaves along the hillside and valley 
of the Key a Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of 
the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call 
buffalo beans, and one little violet. But the leaves 
were not forgotten, and twigs were gathered of every 
different tree and bush then in leaf. They were of 
the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow 
berry. Visited the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family 
obtained their water ; a beautiful place, with moss and 
overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite 
homelike. Then to the liver where we gathered peb- 
bles of almost every color from the sandy shore. We 
threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the Dakota side, and 
when this childish play was crowned with success, af- 
ter we had made many a splash in the water, we re- 
turned to the house where Mr. J. Newell waited for 
us with a spring wagon, and in which, Lizzie, Laura 
and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte, 
twelve miles west. 

Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the 
valley ; and now close to the river, and now up and 
down over the spurrs of the bluff; past the colonists' 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 63 

tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and 
Miss Minn to join our maying party. 

The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass 
of last year's growing, and acres of wild plum and 
choke cherry bushes, now white with blossoms, and 
so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they 
bear as they blossom, there will be an abundance of 
both. A few scattered trees, mostly burr or scrub 
oak and elms are left standing in the valley; but not 
a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most 
of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or 
mound, which stands alone on a slightly undulating 
prairie. It covers a space of about 20 acres at the 
base; is 300 feet fronrbase to the broad top; it is 
covered with white stones that at a distance give it 
the appearance of a snow capped mountain, and can 
be seen for many miles. Some say they are a lime- 
stone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; 
others that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a 
chalky mark with the touch, and to me are a curious 
formation, and look as though they had been boiled 
up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell 
in a shower of confusion just here, as there are no 
others to be seen but those on the butte. Oh ! what 
a story they could tell to geologists; tell of ages past 
when these strange features of this wonderful country 
were formed ! But they are all silent to me, and I can 
only look and wonder, and turn over and look under 
for some poor Indian's hidden treasure, but all we 



64 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

found were pieces of petrified wood mid bone, a moss 
agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a spe- 
cies of dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, 
and gave it to me, for I felt quite lost without a dear 
old dandelion in my hand on my May day, and 
which never failed me before. I have termed them 
" Earth's Stars," for they will peep through the grassy 
sod whenever the clouds will allow. It is the same 
in color, but single, and the leaves different. 

We called and hallooed, an echo coming back to 
us from, we did not know where ; surely not from 
Kaymond's buttes, which we can see quite distinctly, 
though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas 
a war whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the 
bluffs, almost four miles to the north, and we took it 
for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained 
from this elevated point was grand. 

A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya 
Paha river to the north. Though the river is but 
two and one-half miles away, yet the water is lost to 
view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs 
extending far east and west along its northern banks, 
and which belong to the Sioux Indian reservation, 
they are covered with grass, but without shrubbery 
of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones 
or rocks can be seen even from here. South of 
the butte a short distance is a small stream called 
Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim takers" 
preparing their homes ; aside from these but two other 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 65 

houses, a plowman, and some cattle are the only signs 
of life. Mr. N. tells me the butte is on the claim 
taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's and Wood's 
and others of the colony are near. After all the 
sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on 
a rock all alone, to have a quiet think all to myself. 
f Do you wouder, reader, that I feel lonely and home- 
sick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will 
our many friends of the years agone think of me and 
keep the day for me in places where, with them, I 
have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of spring? 

But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do 
you know, Miss Fulton, your keeping a May-day 
seems so strange to me? Do not think our western 
girls would think of such a thing!" 

" Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, 
my story. It was instituted by mere accident by me 
in 1871, and I have kept the 15th of May of every year 
since then in nature's untrained gardens, gathering of 
all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, 
or have unfolded, and note the difference in the sea- 
sons, and also the difference in the years to me. 

No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my 
first May-day; and the woodland was never more 
beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of an early spring. 
Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring 
in bloom, and I could not but gather of all — even 
the tiniest. 

The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, 



66 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

went to the woods, and remembering it was the anni- 
versary of my accidental maying of the previous year, 
I stopped to gather as before ; but the flowers were 
not so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I 
was very sad over the serious illness of a loved sister. 

I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched 
for May flowers with tear-dimmed eyes — sister May 
was dead, and everywhere it was desolate. 

? 75. " A belated snow cloud shook to the ground " 
a few flakes, and we gathered only sticks for bouquets, 
with buds scarcely swollen. 

In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, 
Pa., a peak of the Muncy mountains and a range of 
the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and miles away, 
over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that 
almost painted the mountain side, they were so plenti- 
ful and bright. 

Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my 
own dear mother, and shared them with May, by lay- 
ing them on her grave. 

To-day, all things have been entirely new and 
strange; but while I celebrate it on the wild bound- 
less plains of Nebraska, yet almost untouched by the 
hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the 
favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the 
moss covered rocks where we children played at 
" house-keeping," and in my name, will gather and 
put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah ! yes ! and 
are so lonely thinking of their daughter so far away. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 67 

The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was 
Myrtle — sister Maggie's oldest child — who came to 
me for a May-flower in '76. 

But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering 
in '81, the grass was growing green upon her grave. 
And I know sister will not forget to gather and place 
on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of 
love. 

Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, 
of smiles and tears that I am queen of my maying, 
with no brighter eyes to usurp my crow T n, for it is all 
my own day and of all the days of the year the dear- 
est to me. 

"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live good lives and 
yet not make the most of life; our lives need crowd- 
ing with much that is good and useful; and this is 
only the crowding in of a day that is very good and 
useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, 
and think of the hopes that bloomed and faded with 
the flowers of other years, and prospect the future, 
and wonder what will the harvest be that is now bud- 
ding with the leaves for me and which I alone must 
garner." 

After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in 
a few years will be fully occupied with the busy chil- 
dren of earth, we left "Stone Butte," carrying from 
its stony, grassy sides and top many curious me- 
mentos of our May-day in Nebraska. 

Then I went farther north-west to visit the home 



68 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

of a "squaw man" — the term used for Indians who 
cannot endure the torture of the sun dance, and also 
white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way 
we passed a neatly built sod house, in which two 
young men lived who had lately come from Delaware, 
and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the 
life because they were doing well, as one of them re- 
marked to Mr. N. I tell these little things that 
those who do not already know, may understand how 
Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere. 
Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and 
all but Lizzie ventured in, and by way of excuse asked 
for a drink or minnie in the Sioux language. " Mr. 
Squaw " was not at home, and " Mrs. Squaw," poor 
woman, acted as though she would like to hide from 
us, but without a word handed us a dipper of water 
from which we very lightly sipped, and then turned her 
back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright, 
pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and 
wrapped about it a new shawl which hung about her 
own shoulders. The children were bright and pretty, 
with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess 
there was a drop of Indian blood in their veins. 
But the mother is only a half-breed, as her father 
was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least, the In- 
dian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, 
dusky complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided 
into two jet black braids, while the indispensable 
brass ear drops dangled from her ears. Her dress 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 69 

was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. 
We could not learn much of the expression of her 
countenance, as she kept her face turned from us, and 
we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus she 
gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their 
tepee. The house was of sod with mother earth floors, 
and was divided into two apartments by calico cur- 
tains. The first was the kitchen with stove, table, 
benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room con- 
tained a bed covered with blankets, which with a 
bench was all that was to be seen except the walls, and 
they looked like a sort of harness shop. The furniture 
was all of home make, but there was an air of order 
and neatness I had not expected. 

The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco 
for her white chief to smoke. It is made by scraping 
the bark from the red willowg, then drying, and usually 
mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf tobacco, 
and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! 
I thought, it is only squaws that will go to so much 
pains to supply their liege lords with tobacco. She 
can, but will not speak English, as her husband 
laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word 
could we draw from her. She answered our " good 
bye/' with a nod of the head and a motion of the 
lips. I knoAv she was glad when the "pale faces" 
were gone, and we left feeling so sorry for her and 
indignant, all agreeing that any man who would 
marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love 



70 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

and labor ; labor is what they expect and demand of 
them, and as a rule, the squaw is the better of the 
two. Their husbands are held in great favor by 
those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy 
the land allowed by the government to every Indian, 
male or female, but which the Indians are slow to 
avail themselves of. They receive blankets and 
clothing every spring and fall, meat every ten days, 
rations of sugar, rice, coffee, tobacco, bread and flour 
every week. 

Indians are not considered as citizens of the United 
States, and have no part in our law-making, yet are 
controlled by them. They are kept as Uncle Sani's 
unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. 
Why not give them whereon to place their feet on an 
equal footing with the white children and made to 
work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or die; sur- 
vive or perish ?" What a noble motto that would 
be for them to adopt! 

We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of 
fifteen miles, but no one stops to count miles here, 
where roads could not be better. 

When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped 
by invitation given in the morning, and took tea with 
Mrs. W., who received us with: "You don't know 
how much good it does ms to have you ladies come!" 
Then led the way into her sod house, saying, " I wish 
we had our new house built, so we could entertain you 
better." But her house was more interesting to us 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 71 

with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a 
neat rag carpet underlaid with straw. The room 
was separated from the kitchen by being a step 
higher, and two posts where the door would have 
been had the partition been finished. 

The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but 
the chairs were cushioned, and the beds neatly ar- 
ranged with embroidered shams, and looked so com- 
fortable that while the rest of the party prospected 
without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon 
growing drowsy with my comfortable position when 
Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare your com- 
pany long enough for you to go to sleep. No one 
knows how I long for company; indeed, my very soul 
grows hungry at times for society." 

Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and 
my heart went right out to her in pity, and I asked 
her to tell us her experience. 

I will quote her words and tell her story, as it 
is the language and experience of many who come out 
from homes of comfort, surrounded by friends, to 
build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. 
Mrs. W's. appearance was that of a lady of refine- 
ment, and had once known the comforts and luxuries 
of a good home in the East. But misfortunes over- 
took them, and they came to the West to regain what 
they had lost. Had settled there about three years 
before and engaged in stock raising. The first year the 
winter was long and severe, and many of their cattle 



72 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

died; but were more successful the succeeding years, 
and during the coming summer were ready to build a 
new house, not of sod, but of lumber. 

" We had been thinking of leaving this country, 
but this colony settling here will help it so much, and 
now we will stay." 

Her books of poems were piled up against the plas- 
tered wall, showing she had a taste for the beautiful. 

After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her 
good-bye, and made our last start for home. The 
only flowers found on the way were the buffalo beans 
and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked 
like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way 
we drove over a prairie dog town, frightening the 
little barkers into their underground homes. 

Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position 
on the roof of his house which is only a little mound, 
barking with a fine squeaky bark to frighten us away 
and warn others to keep inside ; but did we but turn 
toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more. 

Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and 
found only about six of the family at home, includ- 
ing a gentleman from New Jersey who had joined 
them. 

The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly 
warm, and as we finished our journey it was made 
thrice beautiful by the setting sun, suggesting the 
crowning thought: will I have another May-day, 
and where? 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 73 

Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing 
letters and sending to many friends pressed leaves and 
flowers and my maying in Nebraska. 

The remainder of the week was bright; but show- 
ery. " Wiggins " was kept hanging on a tree in 
the door yard, to be consulted with about storms, 
and he generally predicted one, and a shower would 
come. We did so want the rain to cease long enough 
for the river to fall that we might cross over on horse- 
back to the other side and take a ramble over the 
bluffs of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. 
As it kept so wet the colonists did not pitch their 
tents, and Mr. Kuan's house was well filled with 
weather stayed emigrants. 

Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came 
Tuesday. They had not come to any stopping place 
when darkness settled upon them Saturday night and 
the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. 
When daylight came they found they were not far 
from the first house along the way where they spent 
Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river and 
stopped at the little house at the bridge ; and Tuesday 
finished the journey. Their faces were burnt with the 
sun and wind ; but the ladies dosed them with sweet 
cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned 
his horses to their former owner, bought a team of 
oxen, and left Stuart on Monday, but over- fed them, 
and was all the week coming with sick oxen. Mr. 
Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not 
6 



74 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

found for over a week. Such were the trials of a few 
of the N. M. A. C. 

Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I 
have already learned that, if possible, it is best to have 
your home selected, and a shelter prepared, and then 
bring your family and household goods. Bring 
what you really need, rather than dispose of it at a 
sacrifice. Do not expect to, anywhere, find a land of 
perpetual sunshine or a country just the same as the 
one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find the 
same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the 
same you would not come. Expect disappointments 
and trials, and do not be discouraged when they come, 
and wish yourself " back to the good old home." 
Adopt for your motto, " What others have done / can 
do." Allow me to give you Mr. and Mrs. K/s story; 
it will tell you more than any of the colonists can ever 
tell, as they have Irs ed through the disadvantages of 
the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April 
of '79 I came to this country to look up a home where 
I could have good cattle range. When we came to 
this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to 
look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went 
further west, but returned and pitched our tent • and 
in a week, with the help of a young man who accom- 
panied us, the kitchen part of our house was under 
roof. While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and 
our two girls made garden. We then returned thirty- 
five miles for our goods and stock, and came back in 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 75 

May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a 
two months' supply of groceries with us, as there was 
no town nearer than Keya Paha, thirty miles east at 
the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about the 
nearest house. 

" Ours was the first house on the south side of the 
river, and I soon had word sent me by SpottedTail, 
Chief of the Sioux, to get off his reservation. I told 
the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail, 
that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on 
surveyed land ; so to come ahead. But was never 
disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose reserva- 
tion lay just across the river. They often come, a 
number together, and want to trade clothing and 
blankets furnished them by the government, giving 
a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat, 
and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of 
whisky. But it is worth more than a pony to put 
whisky into their hands, as it is strictly prohibited, 
and severely punished by law, as it puts them right 
on the war-path. 

"The next winter a mail route was established, and 
our house was made Burton post-office, afterwards 
changed to Brewer. It was carried from Keya Paha 
here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. 
After a time it was dropped, but resumed again, and 
now goes west to Valentine, a distance of about sixty 
miles. 

" The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. 



<b THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Now we have a school house three miles away, where 
they also have preaching, the minister (M. E.) coming 
from Keya Paha." 

Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows 
well the use of firearms, says : " I have stayed for a 
Aveek at a time with only Mr. K.'s father, who is 
blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the 
lower part of our windows in then, and never lock 
our doors. Have given many a meal to the Indians, 
who go oif with a " thank you," or a grunt of satis- 
faction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I 
generally give them something to eat as our cattle 
swim the river and graze on reservation lands. Any- 
way, kindness is never lost. My two daughters have 
gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the 
trip without meeting a soul on the way. 

" The latch string of our door has always hung out 
to every one. The Indians would be more apt to 
disturb us if they thought we were afraid of them ." 

It was a real novelty and carried me back to my 
grandmother's days, to " pull the string and hear the 
latch fly up" on their kitchen door. 

Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the 
bluff and about seventy rods from the river, and is 
surrounded by quite a grove of burr oak and other 
trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now 
have over eighty, which could command a good price 
did they wish to sell. 

Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 77 

quickly enough, and brought again the Sabbath bright 
and clear, but windy. A number of us took a walk 
one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony 
tent; went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches 
of which the body of an Indian chief had been laid 
to rest more than four years ago. From the bleached 
bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet 
strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had 
been of powerful frame, and had been dressed in a 
coat much the same as a soldier's dress coat, with the 
usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his 
blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs 
to the lower limbs, which were so low that the wolves 
had torn the body down. 

When we reached the tent under which they had 
expected to hold their meetings and Sabbath-school, 
we found it, like many of their well-meant plans, now 
flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain 
and wind of last night on the sleepers, and we found 
the tenters busy with needles trying to get it in order 
for pitching. None busier prodding their finger ends 
than was Mr. Clark. 

" What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C?" 
I asked. 

"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept 
me busy to keep from drowning, blowing away, freez- 
ing, and starving to death. It is about all a man 
can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any 
time away, I can tell you." 



78 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but 
learned this lesson from their experience — never buy 
a tent so old and rotten that it won't hold to the 
fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with ; 
it takes good strong material to stand the wind. 

In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land 
to see the prairies burn. A great sheet of flame 
sweeping over the prairie is indeed a grand sight, 
but rather sad to see what was the tall waving grass 
of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only 
to leave great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is 
soon brightened by the new growth of grass which 
could not show itself for so long if the old was not 
burnt. 

Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, 
and at the same time destroy myriads of grasshoppers 
and insects of a destructive nature, and also give the 
rattlesnake a scorching. While others say, burning 
year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out 
the grass roots; also that decayed vegetation is better 
than ashes for a sandy soil. 

These fires have been a great hindrance to the 
growth of forest trees. Fire-brakes are made by 
plowing a number of furrows, which is often planted 
in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good 
wide potato patch all round my farm if I had one, 
and never allow fire on it. To prevent being caught 
in a prairie fire, one should always carry a supply of 
matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 79 

of course will burn from you, and in a few minutes 
after the fire has passed over the ground, it can be 
walked over, and you soon have a cleared spot, where 
the fire cannot reach you. 

Monday, 21st Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. 
finishes his corn planting. 

A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE 
COLONY LOCATED. 

As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you 
all there is yet to be told of this country. There are 
so many left behind that will be interested in know- 
ing all about the country their friends have gone to, 
so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all 
I have learned and seen of it. Allow me to begin 
with the great range of bluffs that closely follow the 
north side of the river. We can only see their bro- 
ken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green 
with grass, on which cattle are grazing — that swim 
the river to pasture off the "Soo" (as Sioux is pro- 
nounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as 
the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this 
part much, only to now and then take a stroll over it. 

The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a 
bluff* is only half a hill, or hill only on one side. 
The ground rises to a height, and then maintains that 
height for miles and miles, which is called table- 
land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here 
is the dividing line between Dakota and Nebraska. 



80 THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 

It is 125 miles long. At its mouth, where it empties 
into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here, thirty - 
five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 
6 feet deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy 
bed, but Mr. K. says "there is rock bottom here." 
The sand is very white and clean, and the water is 
clear and pleasant to the taste. 

The banks are fringed with bushes, principally wil- 
low. The valley on the south side is from one-fourth 
to one and one half-miles wide, and from the growth of 
grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich. 
The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood prin- 
cipally, while there are a few cedar, elm, ash, boxelder 
and basswood to be found. The oak, elm, and box- 
elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid 
in the canyons. ( Scarcely a tree to be seen on the 
table-lands. Wild plums, choke cherries, and grapes 
are the only fruits of the country. No one has yet at- 
tempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same 
in size and quality as our cultivated plums. They 
grow on tall bushes, instead of trees, and are so in- 
terwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom 
so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry 
bush. They both grow in great patches along the 
valley, and form a support for the grape vines that 
grow abundantly, which are much the same as the 
"chicken grapes" of Pennsylvania) I must not over- 
look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry, which, however, 
would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 81 

t 

white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, gen- 
erally about a foot in height, that come up and spread 
in every direction. It is not choice of its bed, but 
seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they are 
pleasant to the taste and refreshing. 

Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but 
the wild black currants are not gathered. Both grow 
abundantly as does also the snowberry, the same we 
cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are start- 
ing up every where, among the bushes and ready to 
climb ; are said to be equally as good as the poled 
hops of home. 

V Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a 
couple of weeks," Mrs. K. says, but I cannot wait to 
see them. The most abundant, now, is the buffalo 
bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground 
plum, and prairie clover : plum from the shape of the 
pod it bears in clusters, often beautifully shaded with 
red, and prairie clover from the flower, that resembles 
a large clover head in shape, and often in color, shad- 
ing from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in 
clusters, and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty 
prairie flower. It belongs to the pulse order, and 
the beans it bears can be cooked as ordinary beans 
and eaten — if at starvation point. Of the other flow- 
ers gathered mention was made on my May-day. 

Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his 
farm, and it is easily obtained on the table -land. It 
cannot be termed soft water, yet not very hard. 



82 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

About one-half of the land I am told is good tilla- 
ble land, the other half too sandy for anything but 
pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen inches to two 
feet deep. 

I will here quote some of the objections to the 
country offered by those who were not pleased. Time 
only can tell how correct they are. " It is too far 
north. Will never be a general farming or fruit grow- 
ing country. Summer season will be too short for 
corn to ripen. Too spotted with sand hills to ever be 
thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far from 
railroad and market, and don't think it will have a 
railroad nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant 
neighbors. Winters will be long and cold." But all 
agree that it is a healthy country, and free from ma- 
laria. Others say, " Beautiful country. Not as cold 
as in Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit ; 
where wild iruit will grow tame fruit can be culti- 
vated. Those sand hills are just what we want; no 
one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing 
on them, we will cultivate our farms." We feel like 
quoting a copy often set for us to scribble over when 
a little girl at school, with only a little alteration. 
" Many men of many minds, many lands of many 
kinds " — to scatter over — and away some have gone, 
seeking homes elsewhere. 

Those who have remained are getting breaking 
done, and making garden and planting sod corn and 
potatoes, which with broom corn is about all they can 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 83 

raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come 
the building of their log and sod shanties, and setting 
out of their timber culture, which is done by plow- 
ing ten acres of ground and sticking in cuttings from 
the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly. 

There are a few people scattered oyer the country 
who have engaged in stock raising, but have done 
little farming and improving. So you see it is almost 
untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as 
a general farming country. Years of labor and trials 
of these new-comers will tell the story of its worth. 

I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good 
for their sake ! I hide myself away from the buzz 
and hum of voices below, in the quiet of an upper 
room that I may tell you these things which have 
been so interesting to me to learn, and hope they may 
be interesting to read. 

But here comes Lizzie saying, " Why, Sims, you 
look like a witch hiding away up here; do come down." 
And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down to see 
their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign 
I was anxious to know all about it. It is a square 
enclosure built of heavy poles, with sheds on the 
north and west sides with straw or grass roof for shel- 
ter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle 
have during the winter. Only the milk cows are cor- 
raled during the summer nights. A little log stable 
for the horses completes the corral, while of course hay 
and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see 



8-4 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

a dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or 
draw, and surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine 
dugout, but enough of the real to be highly interest- 
ing to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man who 
is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French 
boy, their herder. The man was intelligent, and 
looked altogether out of place as he sat there in the 
gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a half 
window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering 
from asthma. I asked : " Do you not find this a 
poor house for an asthmatic?" 

" No, I do not find that it has that effect ; I am as 
well here as I was before I came west." 

The room was about 10x12, and 6 feet high. The 
front of the house and part of the roof was built of 
logs and poles, and the rest was made when God made 
the hill. They had only made the cavity in which 
they lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on. 

To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except 
solitude — so far removed from the busy throngs of 
the world. But the greater part of the stockman's 
time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are 
only retreats for the night. 

We then climbed the hill that I might have a last 
view of sunset on the Keya Paha. I cannot tell you 
of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and wonder, for 
sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course, 
or else I am turned all wrong. 

Tuesday. Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom 



- 

THROUGH NEBRASKA. 85 

I have learned to regard as a dear friend, andl, take 
oar last walk and talk together, going first to the 
grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with 
a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by 
pieces of iron. Oh ! I thought, as I watched the tears 
course down Mrs. K ? s. cheek as she talked of her 
"darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by 
marble monument on these great broad plains of Ne- 
braska- "You see there is no doctor nearer than 
Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he 
could do her no good." Another disadvantage early 
settlers labor under. 

Then to the river that I might see it flow for the 
last time, and gather sand and pebbles of almost every 
color that mingle with it. I felt it was my last good- 
bye to this country and I wished to carry as much of 
it away in my satchel and in memory as possible. 

We then returned to the house, and soon Mr .New- 
ell who was going to Stuart, came, and with whom I 
had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K. and all 
insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters 
had been forwarded to me from Stuart from brother 
C. asking me to join him. And Miss Cody, with 
whom I had been corresponding for some time, in- 
sisted on my being with her soon; so I was anxious 
to be on my way, and improved the first opportunity 
to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a kiss, who declared, 
"I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them 
all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to 



86 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

hide sadness, and soon the little group of friends were 
left behind. 

I wonder did they see through my assuming and 
know how sorry I was to part from them? — Mrs. K., 
who had been so kind, and the colony people all? I 
felt I had an interest in the battle that had already 
begun with them. Had I not anticipated a share of 
the battle and also of the spoils when I thought of 
being one with them. I did feel so sorry that the 
location was such that the majority had not been 
pleased, and our good plans could not be carried 
out. 

It was not supposed as night after night the hall 
was crowded with eager anxious ones, that all would 
reach the land of promise. But even had those who 
come been settled together there would have been 
quite a nice settlement of people. 

The territory being so spotted with sand hills was 
the great hindrance to a body of people settling down 
as the colony had expected to, all together as one 
settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just where 
the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. 
They are only a slight raise* in the ground and are all 
sizes, from one to many acres. 

One-half section would be good claimable land, and 
other half no good. In some places I can see the 
sand in the road that drifts off the unbroken ground. 
We stopped for dinner at Mr. NewelPs brother's, whose 
wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final 






THROUGH NEBRASKA. 87 

start is made for the Niobrara. The country looks 
so different to me now as I return over the same road 
behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The 
tenters have gone to building log houses, and there 
are now four houses to be seen along the way. Am 
told most of the land is taken. 

We pass close to one of the houses, where the hus- 
band is plowing and the wife dropping seed corn ; 
and we stop for a few minutes, that I may learn one 
way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after 
the plow and drops the corn close to the edge of the 
furrow, and it comes up between the edges of the sod. 
Another way is to cut a hole in the sod with an ax, 
and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while 
you plant the next hill — I mean hole — of corn. 

One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen 
along the road, and not a stone. I really miss the 
jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania roads. But 
strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect 
beds of them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground 
for looking at them, and, at last, to satisfy my wish- 
ing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry home/' 
Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can 
find the prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder 
how God put these pebbles away up here ! 

Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would 
make a good sized sea, not a storm tossed sea but 
water in rolling waves. It looks as though it had 
been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked 



88 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

out or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the 
canyons as it went, and now the sea has all gone to 
grass. 

Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular 
series of canyons that I may have a better view. 

"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these 
canyons have been made?" 

" Why, by the action of the wind and water." 

" Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of 
an immense scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark ; 
they are so irregular in shape, size, and depth." 

Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, 
grassy, and barren of tree or bush, while off on the 
other side, can be seen many well filled with burr 
oak, pine, and cedar. 

Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, 
along the Keya Paha, on the broad plains, and now 
of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me for all 
my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query 
of how and when was all this wonderful work done? 
I hope I shall be permitted to some day come again, 
and if I cannot get over the ground any other way, I 
will take another ride behind oxen. 

Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding 
places for stray (?) ponies and horses that strayed from 
their owners by the maneuvering of "Doc." Middle- 
ton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those who steal 
or run off horses from the Indians are called. But 
they did not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, 



THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 89 

and horses and cattle were stolen without personal re- 
gard for the owner. 

But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary 
at Lincoln for some time, and the gang in part dis- 
banded ; yet depredations are still committed by them, 
which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who 
feel that they do not care to settle where they would 
be apt to lose their horses so unceremoniously. A 
one-armed traveler, who took shelter from the storm 
with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses 
stolen last week,which is causing a good deal of indig- 
nation. Their favorite rendezvous before the band 
was broken was at "Morrison's bridge,' 7 where we 
spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have 
laid me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that 
night had I known more of the history of the little 
house and the dark canyons about? 

But the house has another keeper, and nothing re- 
mains but the story of other days to intimidate us now, 
and we found it neat and clean, and quite inviting 
after our long ride. 

After supper I went out to take a good look at the 
Niobrara river, or Running Water. Boiling and 
surging, its muddy waves hurried by, as though it 
was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it 
empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 
miles long. Where it enters the state, it is a clear, 
sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide ; but by the time 
it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it 
6 



90 THROUGH NEBRASKA.. 

keeps in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every 
few hours, it loses its clearness, and at this point is 
about 165 feet wide. Like the Missouri river, its 
banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a 
pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a 
search, found a couple of little stones, same color of 
the sand, and these I put in my satchel to be carried 
to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset picture on 
the " Running Water," and, for a more substantial 
lean for memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island 
to look for a diamond willow stick to carry home to 
father for a cane. The island is almost covered with 
these tall willow bushes. The" bridge was built 
about four years ago. The piers are heavy logs 
pounded deep into the sand of the river bed, and it is 
planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has 
passed heavy freight trains bound for the Indian 
Agency and the Black Hills, and what a mingling of 
emigrants from every direction have paid their toll 
and crossed over to find new homes beyond ! Three 
wagons pass by this evening, and one of the men 
stopped to buy milk from Mrs Slack "to make turn- 
over cake; 7 ' and made enquiry, saying : 

" Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? 
We would like to get near it." 

It is quite a compliment to the colony that so 
many come so far to settle near them; but has been 
quite a hindrance. Long before the colony arrived, 
people were gathering in and occupying the best of 






THROUGH NEBRASKA. 91 

the land, and thus scattering the little band of colo- 
nists. Indeed the fame of the colony will people this 
country by many times the number of actual settlers 
it itself will bring. 

Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the 
organ," and I attempt " Home sweet, home/' but my 
voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet hour of prayer," 
as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Nio- 
brara, and in early morn we leave it to flow on just 
as before, and we go on toward Stuart, casting back 
good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful valley. 
The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not 
wide, but the canyons that cut into the bluifs help to 
make it quite an interesting picture. 

There is not much more to be told about the 
country on the south side of the river. It is not 
sought after by the claim-hunters as the land on the 
north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing 
that a few are persuaded to test it. 

The grass is showing green, and where it was 
burnt oif on the north side of the valley, and was 
only black, barren patches a little more than a week 
ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers 
have sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in 
fragrance is what they call the wild onion. The 
root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also the 
stem when bruised has quite an onion smell ; but the 
tiny, pale pink flower reminds me of the old May 
pinks for fragrance. Another tiny flower is very 



92 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is 
only the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning 
and closes at evening, and acts so much like the ox- 
alis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was not ; but 
the leaves convinced me. 

I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart 
some of its rays to the flowers, that give them a dif- 
ferent tinge; and, too, the flowers seem to come with 
the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through 
the sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris 
was the only flower to be found about Stuart when I 
left. 

We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, 
and — " Oh, horror ! Mr. Newell, look out for the 
red-skins!" 

" Where, Miss Fulton, where ?" 

" Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, 
they are setting fire to the prairie ; and oh dear ! one 
of them is coming toward us with some sort of a 
weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright 
red Indian blanket around me and perhaps they will 
take me for a 'Soo ? and spare me scalp." 

Reader I have a mind to say u continued in the 
next" or "subscribe for the Ledger and read the 
rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in sus- 
pense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this 
the first chapter even, and I would like to have some 
thrilling adventure to wake you up. 

But the " Look out for the red skins," was in great 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 93 

red letters on a prairie schooner, and there they were, 
men with coats and hats painted a bright red, taking 
their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying to 
carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. 
Another, a mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes 
to inquire the road to the bridge "where you don't 
have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as though 
they had'nt ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure 
with the il red skins." But here comes another train 
of emigrants; ladies traveling in a covered carriage, 
while the horses, cattle, people, and all show they 
come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share 
of worldly goods aloug. 

They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Ne- 
braska, where vegetation is at least two weeks ahead 
of this country, but came to take up government land. 
So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good 
homes and go with a plenty to build up another where 
they can have the land for the claiming of it. 

The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool 
and strong, but I have been well protected by this 
thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am not sorry when 
I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty 
welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner." 

THE COLONISTS FIRST SUMMER^ WORK AND 
HARVEST. 

It would not do to take the colonists to their homes 
on the frontier, and not tell more of them. 

I shall copy from letters received. From a letter 



94 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

received from one whom I know had nothing left 
after reaching there but his pluck and energy, I quote : 
"Brewer, P. O. Brown Co., Neb., 

"December 23, '83. 

"Our harvest has been good. Every man of the 
colony is better satisfied than they were last spring, as 
their crops have done better than they expected. My 
sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled) per acre. Pota- 
toes 1 20 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger 
vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old 
ground corn 40, wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 
bushels per acre. After the first year we can raise 
all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it costs 
nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and 
windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and 
w r as surprised at the comfort we took in it; and now 
have a log house ready for use, a sod barn of two rooms, 
one for my cow, and the other for the chickens and 
ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight 
feet. 

"There are men in the canyons that take out build- 
ing logs. They charge from twenty-fiveto thirty-five 
dollars per forty logs, sixteen and twenty feet long. 
To have these logs hauled costs two and two and one- 
half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make the 
trip. But those who have the time and teams can 
do their own hauling and get their own logs, as the 
trees belong to "Uncle Sam." 

"The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 95 

The timber in the canyons are mostly pine. Our 
first frost was 24th September, and our first cold 
weather began last week. A number of the colonists 
built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 
for my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will." 

From another: 

" We are all in good health and like our western 
homes. Yet we have some drawbacks; the worst is 
the want of society, and fruit, Are going to have 
a reunion 16 February." 

"Brewer, Jan., 8. 

"You wished to know what we can do in the 
winter. I have been getting wood, and sitting by 
the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th December, 
but the thermometer has said " below zero/' ever since 
Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The 
land is all taken around here (near the Stone Butte) 
and we expect in a couple of years to have schools 
and plenty of neighbors." 

Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are 
all doing well, and no sickness reported from climat- 
ing. 

I have not heard of one being out of employment. 
One remarked : "This is a good country for the few 
of us that came." 

I believe that the majority of the first party took 
claims; but the little handful of colonists are nothing 
in number to the settlers that have gathered in from 
everywhere, and occupy the land with them." Of the 



96 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the 
"vigilantes" have been at work among them, hanging 
a number to the nearest tree, and lodging a greater 
number in jail. 

It is to be hoped that these severe measures will 
be all sufficient to rid the country of these outlaws. 
May the "colonists" dwell in peace and prosperity, 
and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all 
things good! 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 97 



CHAPTER II. 

Over the Sioux City & Pacific R. R. from Valentine to the Mis- 
souri Valley. A visit to Ft. Niobrara. 

I was advised to go to Valentine, the present ter- 
minus of the S. C. & P. R. R., and also to visit Fort 
Niobrara only a few miles from Valentine, as I 
would find much that was interesting to write about. 
Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of inter- 
est, and as Mr. Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the 
road, had so kindly prepared my way by sending 
letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster 
at the Fort, and also to the station agent at Valen- 
tine, I felt I would not give it up as others advised 
me to, as Valentine is considered one of the wicked 
places of Nebraska, on account of the cow boys of 
that neighborhood making it their head-quarters. 

I had been so often assured of the respect the cow 
boys entertain for ladies, that I put aside all fears, and 
left on a freight train, Friday evening, May 25th, 
taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me 
for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at 
night, and we availed ourselves of the freight caboose 
in order to see the country by daylight. A quiet 
looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who 
busies himself with a book, are the only passengers 



98 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

besides Mrs. Peck and I. There is not much to tell 
of this country. It is one vast plain with here a 
house, and there a house, and here and there a house, 
and that's about all; very little farming done, no 
trees, no bushes, no nothing but prairie. 

There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, 
shake ! Must be going up grade ! Mrs. P. is fat, the 
agent lean and I am neither; but we all jerk, shake 
and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the 
agent braces himself against the stove, and I — well I 
just shake and laugh. It isn't good manners, I 
know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the agent 
so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I 
hide my face and enjoy the fun. There, we are run- 
ning smooth now. Agent remarks that his wife has 
written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last 
Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday ! What if it had passed 
along the Niobrara and upset the little house with all 
aboard into the river. One don't know when to be 
thankful, do they? 

Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only 
mere stations, and not worthy the name of town. 
The Indian has left our company for that of the 
train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, 
and she is prospecting for a location for a store, she 
and the agent, who seems quite pleasant, find plenty 
to talk about. There, puffing up grade again! and 
the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mi's. P. 
holds her head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 99 

and as though he didn't shake one bit, and I just put 
my head out of the window, and watch the country. 

Saw three antelope running at a distance; are 
smaller than deer. 

The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of 
sight of sand-hills or bluffs. Country looks better 
and more settled as we near Long Pine, where several 
of the colonists have located, and I have notified them 
of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them 
coming to the depot to meet us. As the sun has not 
yet hid behind the " Rockies," we proposed a walk to 
Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the 
tallest trees that grow along it, tower just enough 
above the table-land to be seen from the cars; and as 
we did not expect to stop on our return, we made haste 
to see all we could. But by the time we got down 
to the valley it was so dark we could only see 
enough to make us very much wish to see more. So 
we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the 
regular passenger train, which was not due until 
about midnight. The evening was being pleasantly 
passed with music and song, when my eyes rested up- 
on a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and de- 
spite the company about me, I was carried over a bridge 
of sad thoughts to a home where pictures of the same 
had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I am tuck- 
ing little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after 
she has repeated her evening prayer to me, and I 
hear her say : 



100 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

" Oh ! auntie ! I forgot to say, " God bless every- 
body." 

The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, 
and " Mollie doll " folded close in her arms to go to 
sleep, too. But the sweet voice is silent now, " Mol- 
lie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the play- 
ful hands closer folded, and the pictures look down 
on me, far, so far from home ; and I leave the sing- 
ers to their songs while I think. 

To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid 
to venture to Valentine, and I do not like to insist, 
lest something might occur, and the rest try to per- 
suade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of 
my coming, and he had written me to telephone him 
on my arrival at the depot, and he would have me 
conveyed to the Fort immediately. 
j But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, 
in whose care and protection I left home, has carried 
me safe and well this far ; cannot I trust Him all the 
way?" My faith is renewed, and I said: 

" You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can 
go alone. The Lord has always provided friends for 
me when I was in need of them, and I know He will 
not forsake me now." 

Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength 
from my confidence, says : 

" Well, I believe I will go, after all." 

"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and 
we all go down to the depot to meet it. The night is 
clear and frosty, and the moon just rising. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 101 

The train stopped for some time, and we talked of 
colony matters until our friends left us, insisting that 
we should stop on our return, and spend Sunday at 
Long Pine. 

I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just 
at my back a fat, fatherly looking old gentleman bows 
his head in sleep. That genthman back of Mrs. P. 
looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman 
across the aisle is to that aged lady ! Suppose she is 
his dear old mother ! 

"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there — well, I 
scarcely know what that is in the back seat." A 
bushy head rests against the window, and a pair of 
red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the 
seat. But while I look at the queer picture, and 
wonder what it is, it spits a great splash of tobacco 
juice into the aisle, and the query is solved, it's only a 
man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when 
you see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of 
reddish brown, coat of gray, face to match the over- 
alls in color, and hair to match the coat in gray, 
while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our 
background. 

Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. 
The old lady wakes up, and the fatherly old gent 
rouses. 

" You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsyl- 
vania, do you not?" he asked. 

"I am a member of the colony," I replied. 



102 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

U I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire 
about them; how are they getting along?" 

I gave him all the information I could, and soon 
all were conversing as lonely travelers will, without 
waiting for any ceremonial introductions. But soon 
"Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us 
with a pleasant a good evening" to all. The elderly 
man proves to be J. Wesley Tucker, Receiver at the 
United States Land office, at Valentine, but says it is 
too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells 
stories of the w,ild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The 
thoughtful man is Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union 
Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend his vacation 
in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this 
is his first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister 
that has been bold enough to attempt to hold services 
there. He asks ; " Is the colony supplied with a min- 
ister? The superintendent of our mission talks of 
sending one to them if they would wish it." 

"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost 
without preaching, as nearly all are members of some 
church, and almost every denomination is represented ; 
but I scarcely know where services could be held ; no 
church and no school house nearer than three miles." 

" Oh ! we hold services in log or sod houses, any- 
where we can get the people together." 

I then spoke of my mission of writing up the his- 
tory of the colony, and their settling, and the country 
they located in, and why I went to Valentine, and 
remarked : 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 103 

"I gathered some very interesting history from — " 

" Well if you believe all old tells you, you may 

just believe everything/' came from the man in the 
back-ground, who had not ventured a word before, 
and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and 
listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the 
utter recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys ; 
how they shot at random, not caring where their 
bullets flew, and taking especial delight in testing the 
courage of strangers by the " whiz of the bullets about 
their ears." 

" Is there any place where I can stop and go back, 
and not go on to Valentine," I asked. 

" No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and 
added for comfort sake, "no danger of you getting 
shot, unless by mere accident. They are very re- 
spectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a 
lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when 
they are on a spree, they are as wild as wild can be ;" 
with an ominous shake of his head. 

"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get 
there?" 

" Can't say, indeed ; hope not." 

" A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or 
see how high he could jump, they shot about his feet 
and cut bullet holes through his hat, and the poor 
fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and 
baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm 
now where a stray one lodged that came through the 
house. 



104 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

After this bit of information was delivered, he went 
into the other car to take a smoke. I readily under- 
stood it was more for his own amusement than ours 
that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasi- 
zing the most important words. The gentlemen across 
the aisle handed me his card with : 

" I go on the same errand that you do, and visit 
the chaplain of the Fort, so do not be alarmed, that 
gentleman was only trying to test your courage." 

I read the card : P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm 
Lake Tribune, Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister 
looked interested, but only remarked : 

" I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is 
that I may not be able to do them as much good as 
others of more experience could." 

I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was 
he, as his work would be among them. Mrs. P. 
whispered : 

u Oh! is'nt it awful, are you alarmed? " 

"Not as much as" I appear to be, the gentleman 
evidently enjoyed teasing us, and I enjoyed seeing 
him so amused. We will reach there after sunrise 
and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not 
stop to learn much of Valentine, I know all I care 
to now." 

The stranger, who by this time I had figured out 
as a pony boy — I could not think what else would 
give him such a countenance as he wore — changed 
the subject with: 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 105 

"That man/' referring to Judge T., "don't need to 
say there is no alkali along here, I freighted over this 
very country long before this railroad was built, and 
the alkali water has made the horses sick many a 
time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country 
has changed a good bit since then; there wasn't near 
as much grass growing over these sand hills then as 
there is now/' 

Then by way of an apology for his appearnace, re- 
marked : 

"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive 
day after day through all kinds of weather and sleep 
out at night soon makes a fellow look old. I look to 
be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My 
folks all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from 
the old home." 

Poor man ! I thought, is that what gives you such 
a hardened expression; and I have been judging you 
so harshly, 

" The only one from the old home," had a tone of 
sadness that set me to'thinking, and I pressed my face 
close to the window pane, and had a good long think 
all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. 
Is there not another aboard this train who is the 
only one away from the old home? And all alone, 
too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in heart, 
and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he 
breathed an evening benediction upon his children, 
and invokes the care and protection of Him who is 
7 



106 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

God over all upon a daughter, now so far beyond the 
shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother 
whispers a fervent "amen." By brothers and sis- 
ters I am not forgotten while remembering their own 
at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in fancy I see 
them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God 
bless auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And 
ever lifting my own heart in prayer for protection 
and resting entirely upon God's mercy and goodness, 
I go and feel I am not alone. j Had it not been for my 
faith in the power of prayer, I would not have un- 
dertaken this journey^ but I thought as I looked up 
at the bright moon, could one of your stray beams 
creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you 
look down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a 
night of sleep and rest to her? I was glad they could 
rest in blissful ignorance, and I would write and tell 
them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I 
had written of my intended trip, but they did not know 
the character of Valentine, nor did I until I was about 
ready to start. But I knew Mr. Buchanan would 
not ask me to go where it was not proper I should 
go. So gathering all these comforting thoughts to- 
gether, I rested, but did not care to sleep, for — 

Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet, 
To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep. 

Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, 
Home, sweet home, and the Lord's Prayer to the 
same air, I keep myself company. 






THROUGH NEBRASKA. 107 

(jt was as bright and beautiful as night could be. 
The broad plains were so lit up I could see far 
away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills glistening 
in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture 
of silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. 
The moon peeped up at me from its reflection in theiy 
clear waters, and I watched it floating along, skip- 
ping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside 
as though it, too, was going to preach in or write up 
Valentine, and was eager to be there with the rest 
of us. It was a night too lovely to waste in sleep, 
so I waked every moment of it until the sun came 
up and put the moon and stars out, and lit up the 
great sandy plaids, with a greater light that changed 
the picture to one not so beautiful, but more inter- 
esting from its plainer view. 

fit is beyond the power of my pen to paint the pic- 
ture of this country as I saw it in the early morn- 
ing light, while standing at the rear door of the car. 
Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over 
level grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, 
ready to bloom, and sticking out through the sandiest 
beds they could find. Where scarcely anything else 
would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand- 
cherries, white with blossoms. It seemed the picture 
was unrolled from beneath the wheels on a great can- 
vas while we stood still ; but the cars fairly bounded 
Over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, 
when " Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge 



108 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Tucker cautioned rue to "get ready to die," and we 
land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went to 
breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating 
house, meals 50 cents), and Mr. Mc Andrew, his 
mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the depot, and lost 
no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were 
four passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, 
and then gathered about the stove to warm. Find- 
ing there was little warmth to be had from it, Mrs. 
P. and I thought we would take a walk about the 
depot in the bright sun. But I soon noticed a num- 
ber of men gathered about a saloon door, and fearing 
they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs. 
P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I 
seated myself close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom 
I felt was more of a protection to me than a company 
of soldiers would be. All was quiet at first, but as 
there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a 
resting place by the cow boys, and a number of them 
came in, but all quiet and orderly, and only gave us 
a glance of surprise and wonder, i^ot one bold, im- 
pudent stare did we receive from any one of theru, 
and soon all fears were removed, and I quietly 
watched them. One whom I would take to be a 
ranch owner, had lodged in the dej:)ot, and came down 
stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional pro- 
fane word, of the fun of the night before. He was a 
large, red-faced young looking man, with an air of 
ownership and authority ; and the boys seemed to go 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 109 

to him for their orders, which were given in a 
brotherly sort of way, and some were right off to 
obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed with 
fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their 
leather belt of revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's 
sombrero. Some were rather fine looking in feat- 
ures, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather 
than of hardened wickedness. One who threw him- 
self down to sleep on an improvised bed on the seats 
in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy in years, 
rather delicate in features, and showed he had not 
been long at the life heVas now leading; and it was 
evident he had once known a better life. 

Another, equally as young in years, showed a 
much more hardened expression ; yet he, too, looked 
like a run-away from a good home. 

One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed 
us without turning his head, and I thought him an 
old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face I knew 
he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed 
to be a general favorite that was about to leave them, 
for, " I'm sorry you are going away, Jimmie," " You'll 
be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know how 
you get along down there," and like expressions came 
from a number. I did not hear a profane word or 
rough expression from anyone, excepting the one be- 
fore spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to read 
them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your 
mothers, your sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a 



110 THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 

life that knows no home, and so often their life has 
a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a wild 
misspent life. 

As the ambulance would not be there for some time, 
and I could not think of breakfasting at the restaurant, 
Mrs. P. and I went to a store and got some crackers 
and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot. 
Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, 
and all fear banished, I fell asleep with my head 
resting on the window-sill ; but was soon aroused by 
Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to 
walk about and see the town* 

The town site is on a level stretch of land, half sur- 
rounded by what looks to be a beautiful natural wall, 
broken and picturesque with gray rocks and pine trees. 

It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look 
to be almost perpendicular, that follow the north side 
of the Minnechaduza river, or Swift Running water, 
which flows south-east, and is tributary to the Nio- 
brara. The river is so much below the level of the 
table-land that it can not be seen at a distance, so it 
was only a glimpse we obtained of this strange beauty. 
But for your benefit we give the description of it 
by another whose time was not so limited. ''The 
view on the Minnechaduza is as romantic and pictur- 
esque as many of the more visited sights of our 
country. Approaching it from the south, when 
within about 100 yards of the stream the level plain 
on which Valentine is built is broken by numerous 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. Ill 

deep ravines with stately. pines growing on their steep 
sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream 
flowing in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon 
itself, appears a small amber colored rivulet. Along 
the valley, which is about one-half mile wide, there 
are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak 
of a time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite 
banks or bluffs, which are more than 100 feet higher 
than those on the south, are an interesting picture. 
There are just enough trees on them to form a pretty 
landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs 
on which they grow. The ravines that cut the banks 
into sharp bluffs and crags are lost to view in their 
own wanderings." 

Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry 
county, which was but lately organized. Last Christ- 
mas there was but one house on the town site, but 
about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from 
Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built 
right amid the sand banks near the Niobrara river, 
the people living there left their sandy homes and 
came here; and now there is one hardware, one fur- 
niture, and two general stores; a large store-house 
for government goods for the Sioux Indians, a news- 
paper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and number 
of houses in course of erection, also the United States 
land office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes 
the government land of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux 
counties. In all I counted about twenty-five houses, 



112 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

and three tents that served as houses. But this is 
not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific 
Railroad very long, as it, too, is "going west," just 
where is not known. 

About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with 
the ambulance, and returning to the depot for my 
satchel and ulster, which I had left there in the care 
of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade 
Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with 
our most earnest wishes for his success. He had al- 
ready secured the little restaurant, which was kept by 
respectable people, to hold services in. 

From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and 
which looked to be but a short distance away. When 
we had gone about two miles in that direction the 
driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort 
he would drive out of the way some distance that we 
might have a better view of it ; and after going quite 
a ways, halted on an eminence, and then we were yet 
several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte 
that rears a queerly capped point high above all other 
eminences around it. At that distance, it looked to 
be almost too steep to be climbed, and crowned with a 
large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over 
Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too 
limited, by even extending it to Monday, to get any- 
thing like a view, or gather any information of the 
country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that after- 
noon rather than to risk her life one night so near the 
Indians. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 113 

The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from 
a strong wind that was cold and cutting despite the 
bright sun. I had fancied I would see a fort such 
as they had in "ye olden times" — a block house with 
loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But in- 
stead I found Fort Niobrara more like a pleasant 
little village of nicely built houses, most of them of 
a dobie brick, and arranged on three sides of a square. 
The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage 
houses, but large, handsomely built, and commodious. 
On the east are public buildings, chapel, library, lec- 
ture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc. 
Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, 
sleeping, and reading rooms; also separate drinking 
and billiard rooms for the officers and privates. 

The drinking and playing of the privates, at least 
are under restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed 
them, and betting is punished. On this side is the 
armory, store-houses of government goods, a general 
store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear 
of the buildings are the stables — one for the gray and 
another for the sorrel horses — about one hundred of 
each, and also about seventy-five mules. 

The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks 
and planted in small trees, as it is but four years since 
the post, as it is more properly termed, was established. 
It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the driver if, 
as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered 
that it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they 



114 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

are called out to duty, and they are only wishing the 
Indians would give them a chance at a skirmish. 
The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are 
boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives 
extra pay ; for driving to the depot once every day, 
and many days oftener, he received fifteen cents per 
day. Those of the privates who marry and bring 
their wives there — and # but few are allowed that 
privilege — do so with the understanding that their 
wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for the sol- 
diers in return for their own keeping. 

After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and 
mother alighted at the chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I 
at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were kindly re- 
ceived by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieuten- 
ant was soon called away to engage in a cavalry drill, 
or sham battle; but Mrs. D. entertained us very 
pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never was 
so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a 
short time in their cosy parlor. How provoking to 
be so, when there was so much of interest about me, 
and my time so limited. 

Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking 
some rest, which I gladly consented to do, providing 
they would not allow me to sleep long. I quickly 
fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were com- 
ing over the bluffs to take the fort, and in getting 
away from them I got right out of bed, and was back 
in the parlor in less than ten minutes. * 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 115 

Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the pub- 
lic buildings ; but we were driven back by a gust of 
wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs that hem 
them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud 
of sand and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and 
we started over to see the cavalry drill, but again 
were driven back by the rain, and we watched the 
cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been 
fought, the greys in one company, and sorrels in an- 
other. 

There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. 
The keeping up of a post is a great cost, yet it is a 
needed expense, as the knowledge of the soldiers be- 
ing so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet 
I could not see what would hinder them from over- 
powering that little handful of soldiers, despite their 
two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000 Indians per 
minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so 
disposed. But they have learned that such an out- 
break would be retaliated by other troops, and call 
down the indignation of their sole keeper and sup- 
port — " Uncle Sam." 

We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak 
in words of highest praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose 
death in 1881 was so untimely and sad, as he was 
soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away 
from near my own home as a bride, whom he met at 
Washington, D. C, in 79, where he spent a portion 
of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of 



116 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the 
Little Big Horn, known as Custer's massacre. He 
was a graduate of West Point, was a brave, intelli- 
gent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good 
soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his un- 
timely and violent death brought grief to many 
hearts, and robbed the world of a good man and a 
patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led 
to is interesting, I will briefly repeat it : 

Some time before this event happened, there were 
good grounds for believing that there w T as a band 
formed between some of the soldiers and rough char- 
acters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it be- 
came known, and a company was sent to guard him 
from Long Pine. Not long after this a half-breed 
killed another in a saloon row, near the fort, and 
Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. 
Lieut. C. took with him a small squad of soldiers, 
and two Indian scouts. When they had been out 
two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock 
fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure 
him, he was shot by one of the soldiers of the squad 
by the name of Locke, in order to let the fugitive es- 
cape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the con- 
fusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the 
Sioux Indians, who held the lieutenant in great es- 
teem, ordered out a company of spies under Crow 
Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. 
They followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 117 

they found him under arrest. They wanted to bring 
him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not allowed 
to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for 
life— a poor return for such a one as he had taken. 

He was evidently one of the band before men- 
tioned, but ignorant of this the lieutenant had chosen 
him to be a help, and instead was the taker of his 
life. 

When Crow Dog returned without the murderer 
of Lieut. C, Spotted Tail was very angry, and put 
him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians 
were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted 
Tail would not let Crow Dog go, which made the 
feud still greater. In the fall, when Spotted Tail 
was about to start to Washington to consult about 
the agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his 
wagon up to Spotted Tail's tepee, and call him out, 
when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the wagon, 
rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was 
so closely followed that after three days he came into 
Fort Niobrara, and gave himself up. He has been 
twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but has 
again been granted a new trial, and is now a prison- 
er at Fort Pierre. 

The new county is named Cherry in honor of the 
beloved lieutenant. 

While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that 
it was our intention to return on a combination train 
that would leave Valentine about 3 o'clock. Finding 



118 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

we would then have little time to reach the train, he 
immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned 
to hold the train a half hour our for arrival, as it 
was then time for it to leave. And bidding our kind 
entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our way. 
Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the 
strange beauty of the surrounding country justice by 
cutting my visit so short, yet I was glad to be off on 
a day train, as the regular passenger train left after 
night, and my confidence in the cow boys and the 
rough looking characters seen on the street, was not 
sufficiently established by their quiet demeanor of the 
morning to fancy meeting a night train. The rid- 
dled sign-boards showed that there was a great 
amount of ammunition used there, and we did not 
care to have any of it used on us, or our good opinion 
of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we wanted 
to have a daylight view of the country from there to 
Long Pine. So we did not feel sorry to see the dri- 
ver lash the four mules into a gallop. At the bridge, 
spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and 
a couple of others on their way to the fort, who told 
us they thought the train had already started; but 
the driver only urged the mules to a greater speed, 
and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked : 

"Do mules ever run off?" 

" Sometimes they do." 

" Well, do you think that is what these mules are 
doing now?" 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 119 

"No, I guess not." 

And as if to make sure they would, he reached out 
and wielded the long lash whip, and we understood 
that he not only wished to make the train on time, 
but also show us how soldier boys can drive "govern- 
ment mules." The thought that they were mules of 
the " U. S." brand did not add to our ease of mind 
any, for we had always heard them quoted as the 
very worst of mules. 

Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe 
they were running oif, and I got in a good position to 
make a hasty exit if necessary, and then watched 
them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and 
a half miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the 
driver for it as he helped us into the depot in plenty 
of time for the train. 

Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens 
of petrified wood — chips from a petrified log, found 
along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of our trip 
to Valentine. Several cow boys were in the depot, 
but as quiet as in the morning. 

I employed the time in gathering information 
about the country from Mr. T. He informed me there 
was some good table-land beyond the bluffs, which 
would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years 
the large cattle ranches would have to go further 
west to find herding ground. They are driven west- 
ward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the set- 
tling up of the country. 



120 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, 
is west of the 100th meridian, and 295 miles distant 
from the Missouri river. 

When about ready to start, who should come to 
board the train but the man whom I thought must be 
a pony boy. 

" Oh, Mrs. P. ! that bad man is going too, and see! 
We will have to travel in only a baggage car !" 

" Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The am- 
bulance has started back, and we cannot stay here, so 
we are compelled to go." 

Mr. T. remarked: 

"He does look like a bad man; but don't you 
know you make your own company very often, and I 
am assured you will be well treated by the train-men, 
and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all 
I can, I will speak to the conductor in your behalf. 

The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, 
while the conductor and stranger occupied the tool- 
chest. One side-door was kept open that I might sit 
back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the 
least discomforted by our position, was soon nodding 
in her chair, and I felt very much alone. 

"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot en- 
ter," I thought, and as I sat with book and pencil in 
hand, Avriting a few words now and then, I sang — just 
loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns 
and songs, and ended with, " Dreaming of home." 
I wanted to make that man think of " home and 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 121 

mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then 
to ask him some question about the country in the 
most respectful way, and as though he was the only 
one who knew anything about it, and was always 
answered in the most respectful manner. 

I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump 
right out into a sand-bank if anything should hap- 
pen ; but nothing occurred to make any one jump, 
only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her 
up and whisper to her "to please keep awake for I 
feel dreadful lonely." 

Well, all I got written was: 

Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail 
car, over the sandy roads, now crossing the Niobrara 
bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high; river not wide; no 
timber to be seen ; now over a sand fill and through 
a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, 
and 20 at bottom. Men are kept constantly at 
work to remove the sand that drifts into the cuts. 

Thatcher, seven miles from V., a few faces peer 
up at the train from their dug-out homes, station 
house, and one 8x10 deserted store-house almost en- 
tirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, 
and Eggs," out of which, I am told, thousands of 
dollars' worth have been sold. Think it must have 
been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn 
all around. 

To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the 
left it is a level grassy plain. The most of these 



122 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

lakelets, spoken of before, I am told, are only here 
during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now. 

Arabia, one house, and a tent that gives it an 
Arabic look. 

Wood Lake, one house. Named from a lakelet 
and one tree. Some one has taken a claim here, and 
built a sod house. Beyond this there is scarcely a 
house to be seen. 

Johnstown, two houses, a tent, and water tank. 
Country taking on a better appearance — farm houses 
dotting the country in every direction. Country still 
grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little 
town, a little distance to the left. Will tell you of 
this place again. 

Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of 
Long Pine town, we reach Long Pine about six 
o'clock. 

Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the 
way alone, so I have concluded to stop there over 
Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises and thanks 
upon these men who have so kindly considered our 
presence. Not even in their conversation with each 
other have I noticed the use of one slang or profane 
word, and felt like begging pardon of the stranger 
for thinking so wrongly of him. 

Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth : 

Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the 
homestead of Mrs. N. J. Osborne, and Mr. Hall. 
It is situated on a gently rolling prairie, fifteen miles 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 123 

south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles 
south, and twelve miles west. Towusite was platted 
August, 1882, and now has one newspaper, two gen- 
eral stores, two hardware stores, two lumber yards, 
two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, 
one restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith 
shop, and last of all to be mentioned, two saloons. A 
M. E. church is organized with a membership of thir- 
teen. 

I would take you right over this same ground, 
reader, after a lapse of seven months, and tell you of 
what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its growth 
since then. 

Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and 
Ainsworth has been decided as the county seat, as it 
is in the centre of the populated portion of the county. 
But the vote is disputed, and contested by the people 
of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided ques- 
tion. Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed 
property; eight Americans to one foreigner. I quote 
this to show that it is not all foreigners that go west. 
/"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has 
three banks, and a number of business houses have 
been added, and a Congregational church (the result 
of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his va- 
cation months), a public building, and a $3,000 
school house./ 

" Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from 
$1,000 to $1,500. A bridge has been built across 



124 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth. There is a 
a good deal of vacant government land north of the 
river, yet much of the best has been taken, but there 
are several thousand acres, good farm and grazing 
land, yet vacant in the county. There is a continual 
stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being 
taken. The sod and log 'shanties/ are fast giving 
way to frame dwellings, and the face of the country 
is beginning to assume a different appearance. Fair 
quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars 
per acre. 

" The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) 
■ that farmers are still plowing. First f?-ost occurred 
Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this place, has about 8,000 
head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter for 
them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some 
look fat enough for market now, with no other feed 
than the prairie grass. 

"School houses are now being built in nearly all 
the school districts. The voting population of the 
county at last election was 1,000. I will give you 
the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of 
its merit : Wheat frorn 28 to 35 bushels per acre ; 
oats 50 to 80 bushels per acre; potatoes, weighing 
3J pounds, and 400 bushels per acre; cabbage, 22 
pou nds " 

This information I received from Mr. P. D. 
McAndrew, who was so favorably impressed with 
the country, when on his visit to Fort Niobrara, 






THROUGH NEBRASKA. 125 

that he disposed of his Tribune office, and returned, 
and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I 
have before spoken, and located at Ainsworth. 

I would add that Valentine has not made much 
advancement, as it is of later birth, and the cow-boys 
still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's stories as only 
too true by added deeds of life-taking. 

You may be interested in knowing what success 
Rev. Herbert had in preaching in such a place. He 
says of the first Sabbath : "Held services in the res- 
taurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. 
One saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give 
me the use of the saloon for the hour. All promised 
to close their bars for the time, but did not. The day 
was very much as Saturday j if any difference the stores 
did a more rushing business. As far as I was privi- 
leged to meet with the cow-boys, they treated me well. 
They molest those only who join them in their dis- 
sipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt 
there are some very low characters among them, but 
there is chivalry (if it may so be called) that will not 
brook an insult to a lady. Many of them are fugi- 
tives from justice under assumed names; others are 
runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it 
by exciting stories of western life, found in the cheap 
fiction of the times, and the accounts of such men as 
the James boys. But there are many who remember 
no other life. They spend most of their time during 
the summer in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their 



126 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

companions. Their nights are spent rolled in their 
blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for a 
pillow. They all look older than their years would 
warrant them in looking." 

Long Pine. 

After supper I walked out to see the bridge across 
the Long Pine creek of which I have before spoken. 
But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery and see it all, 
and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there 
could be no harm iu spending a part of it quietly see- 
ing some of nature's grandeur, and returned to the 
Severance House and retired early to have a long 
night of rest. There is no bar connected with this 
hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary 
traveler surely rests the better for its absence. 

The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. 
L. Glover, of Long Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and 
Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself started 
early for the bridge. 

It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The 
view obtained from it is grand indeed. Looking 
south the narrow stream is soon lost to view by its 
winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar 
and pine trees that grow in its narrow valley, and 
which tower above the table-land just enough to be 
seen. Just above the bridge, from among the rocks 
that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven 
distinct springs gush and drip, and find their way 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 127 

cIowd the bank into the stream below, mingling with 
the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep pool 
of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is 
up and away, and with a rush and ripple glides under 
the bridge, around the bluffs, and far away to the 
north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara. We 
can follow its course north only a little way farther 
than we can south, but the valley and stream is wider, 
the bluffs higher, and the trees loftier. 

It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and 
as height adds to grandeur more than depth, we 
want to get right down to the water's edge and look 
up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. 
So we cross the bridge to the west and down the steep 
bank, clinging to bushes and branches to help us on 
our way, until we stop to drink from the springs. 
The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. 
Then stop on a foot bridge across the pool to dip our 
hands in the running water, and gather a memento 
from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view 
the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who 
would leave so romantic a spot. Then along a well 
worn path that followed the stream's winding way, 
climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves 
up by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a 
grape-vine, w r e followed on until Mrs. G. remarked: 
" This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold wave 
over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a 
wandering Sioux, and not caring to meet so formid- 



128 THROUGH NEBRASKA.. 

able a traveler on such a narrow pathway, I pro- 
posed that we would go no farther. So back to the 
bridge and beyond we went, following down the 
stream. 

Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table- 
land and are so grown with trees and bushes one can 
scarce tell them from Pennsylvania hills; but as a 
rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from twenty- 
five to seventy -five feet high, forming a wall of pow- 
dered sand and clay that is so hard and compact that 
we could carve our initials, and many an F. F. I left 
to crumble away with the bluffs. 

Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest 
points, cones from the pine trees, and flow r ers from 
the valley and sand hills, I went back from my 
Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder 
and a clear conscience. For had I not stood before 
preachers more powerful and no less eloquent than 
many who go out well versed in theology, and, too, 
preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works 
and power ever since He spake them into existence 
and will ever be found at their post until the end. 

But how tired we all were by the time we reached 
Mrs. G.'s home, where a good dinner was awaiting 
our whetted appetites ! That over, Mr. H. stole out to 
Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. 
But soon a familiar chord struck home to my heart, 
and immediately every mile of the distance that lay 
between me and home came before me. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 129 

r Homesick ? " Yes ; so homesick I almost fainted 
with the first thought, but I slipped away, and offered 
up a prayer : my only help, but one that is all pow- 
erful in every hour and need.] 

Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near 
Long Pine, who had come from Pennsylvania, and 
was very anxious to see some one from her native 
state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and 
found her in a large double log house on the banks 
of the Pine — a very pretty spot they claimed three 
years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, 
and said: 

" I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and 
told my husband I must go to see them as soon as I 
was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see some 
one from home, it would almost cure me!" 

It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends 
living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and what a treat 
the call was to all of us ! She told us of their settling 
there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black 
Crow, when they were being taken away as prison- 
ers. How they, and the few families living along 
the creek, had always held their Sabbath School and 
prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. 
Skinner, a neighbor living not far away, who could 
tell us so much, as they had been living there longer, 
and had had more experience in pioneering. And on 
we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make 
another call. 



130 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind 
and interesting, and their home so crowded with cu- 
riosities, which our limited time would not allow us 
to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and 
promised to spend Monday with them. 

We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long 
Pine by attending M. E. services at the school house, 
held by Rev. F. F. Thomas. 

Monday — Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's 
Retreat," as the Skinner homestead is called, enjoy- 
ing its romantic scenery, and best of all, Mrs. S.'s 
company. The house is almost hid by trees, which 
are leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other 
side of the creek, " Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet 
high from the water's edge. White Cliffs are sev- 
eral points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden 
among these cliffs are several canyons irregular in 
shape and size. 

Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms 
among these canyons; and "Wild Cat gulch," 400 
feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a 
wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a 
year ago, was explored. White Cliffs was climbed, 
and tired out, we sat us down in the "parlor" of the 
canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her trials 
and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to 
that word, "triumph," for she says: "God led us 
there to do that work, and we only did our duty." 

We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 131 

4 



christian spirit was so plainly visible through it all, 
and we repeat it to show how God can and will care 
for his children when they call upon him. 



" My husband had been in very poor health for 
some time, and in the spring of 1879, with the hope 
that he would regain not only his health, but much 
he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along 
the Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the " pony- 
boy clan," we pitched our tent on the south side of 
the river, about a mile from where Morrison's bridge 
has since been built ; had only been there a few days, 
when a couple of young men came, one by the name 
of Morrison, and the other "Doc Middleton," the 
noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves that sur- 
rounded us, but who was introduced as James Shep- 
herd ; who after asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, 
requested him to come to the little house across the 
river (same house where I slept on the table) and per- 
form a marriage ceremony. On the appointed even- 
ing Mr. S. forded the river, and united him in mar- 
riage with a Miss Richards. 

The room was crowded with armed men, "ready 
for a surprise from the Indians/' they said, while the 
groom laid his arms off while the ceremony was 
being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character 
of the men, left as soon as his duty was performed. 

About a month after this, a heavy reward was 



132 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 



offered for the arrest of Doc. Middleton, and two 
men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to Mid- 
dleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and 
falsely represented that they were authorized to pre- 
sent some papers to him, the signing of which, and 
leaving the country, w r ould recall the reward. His 
wife strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself 
— and at that time sick — signed the papers ; and then 
was told there was one more paper to sign, and request- 
ed to ride out a short way with them. 

He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with 
them, but had not gone far until Hazen fell behind, 
and shot several times at him, badly wounding him. 
He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for 
dead. 

This happened on Sunday morning, so near our 
tent that we heard the shooting. Mr. S. was soon at 
the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our tent, after 
which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the 
*' Morrison house." There the two men lay, not a 
mile apart. The one surrounded by a host of fol- 
lowers and friends, whose lives were already dark 
with crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance 
on the betrayer of their leader, and also on anyone 
who would harbor or help him. The other, with 
only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, 
and render him what aid we in our weakness could. 
And believing we defended a worthy man, Mr. S. 
declared he would protect him with his life, and 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 133 

would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an 
entrance into our teut. Fearing some would persist 
in coming, and knowing he would put his threats 
into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of 
the hill and entreated those who came to turn back. 

When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, 
woman's strongest weapon came to my help; my 
tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we were 
not again disturbed. 

Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was 
started to Keya Paha for a physician, and at night 
our three other little boys, the youngest but two 
years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little 
way from the tent, and left in the care of the Lord, 
while Mr. S. and I watched the long dark night 
through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant 
action 

Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did 
we use a light, for fear it would make a mark at long 
range. We had brought a good supply of medicine 
with us, and knowing well its use, we administered 
to the man, and morning came and found him still 
living. 

Once only did I creep out through the darkness 
to assure myself that our children were safe. 

Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him 
some medicine which he very badly needed. 

After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, 
and with them, two men, friends of Hazen, whom 



134 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

they met, and who inquired of the doctor of Hazen's 
whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that 
they were his friends, told them his mission, and 
brought them along, and with their help Hazen was 
taken away that night in a wagon ; they acting as 
guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver. 

Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the 
state; and they took him to Columbus, then the near- 
est railway point. It was a great relief when they were 
safely started, but I was not sure they would be al- 
lowed to land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back 
until Thursday, and there I was, all alone with the 
children, my own strength nothing to depend on to 
defend myself against the many who felt indignant at 
the course we had pursued. 

The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly 
loyal, lived fifteen miles away. Of course I knew 
the use of firearms, but that was not much to depend 
upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost 
prostrated through the trouble. Threats were sent 
to me by the children that if Mr. S. dared to return, 
he would be shot down without mercy, and warning 
us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would 
save ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but 
just stay and take whatever the Lord would allow to 
befall us. I expected every night that our cattle 
would be run off, and we would be robbed of every- 
thing we had. One dear old lady, who lived near, 
stayed a couple of nights with us, but at last told 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 135 

me, for the safety of her life she could not come 
again, and urged me to go with her to her home. 

" Oh, Sister Robinson/' I cried, "you must not 
leave me ! " and then the thought came, how very 
selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life for my 
sake, and I told her I could stay alone. 

When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was 
leading us, and I could not refrain from singing, 

" Through this changing world helow, 
Lead me gently, gently, as I go; 
Trusting Thee. I cannot stray, 
I can never, never lose my way." 

And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw 
Mrs. R. going over the hill to her home, and my 
utter loneliness and helplessness came upon me with 
so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why 
didst you lead us into all this trouble?" But a 
voice seemed to whisper, " Fear not ; they that are 
for thee are more than they that are against thee." 
and immediately my faith and trust were not only 
renewed, but greatly strengthened, and I felt that 
I dwelt in safety even though surrounded by those 
who would do me harm. It was not lonsr until 
Mrs. R. came back, saying she had come to stay 
with me, for after she got home she thought how 
selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own 
safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her 
my fears were all dispelled, and I would not allow 
her to remain. 



136 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and 
especially as the appointed time for his return passed, 
and the time of anxious waiting and watching was 
lengthened out until the next Monday. 

On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took 
" Doc " Middleton a prisoner. His term in the pen- 
itentiary will expire in June, and I do hope he has 
learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life ; 
for he was rather a fine looking man, and is now 
only thirty-two years old. 

(I will here add that Middleton left the peniten- 
tiary at the close of his term seemingly a reformed 
man, vowing to leave the West with all his bad 
deeds behind.) 

Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Ha- 
zen $250 for his death blow, for he only lived about 
a year after he was shot. I must say we did not 
approve of the way in which they attempted to take 
Middleton. 

We did not locate there after all this happened, 
but went eight miles further on, to a hay ranch, and 
with help put up between four and five hundred 
tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even 
there, and only remained the summer, and came and 
homesteaded this place, which we could now sell for 
a good price, but we do not care to try life on the 
the frontier again. 

In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must 
say we never experienced any trouble from them, al- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 137 

though many have found shelter for a night under 
our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, 
they would always, without my asking, disarm them- 
selves, and hand their revolvers to me, and ask me 
to lay them away until morning. This was done to 
assure me that I was safe at their hands. 



I repeat her story word for word as nearly as pos- 
sible, knowing well I repeat only truth. 

And now to her collection of curiosities — but can 
only mention a few : One was a piece of a Mastodon's 
jaw-bone, found along the creek, two feet long, with 
teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They 
unearthed the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on 
exposure to the air, they left it to harden before dis- 
turbing it; and when they returned much had been 
carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, 
ten feet, of which they have a piece seven inches in 
length, fifteen inches in circumference, and weighs 
eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the point. 
Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a 
chalky white, and shows a growth of moss like 
that of moss agate. She has gathered from around 
her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all 
colors. As she handed them to me one by one, 
shading them from a pink topaz to a ruby, I could 
not help touching them to my tongue to see if they 
did not taste ; they were so clear and rich-looking. 

It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut 
9 



138 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

cased as a curiosity. But what puzzled rue most 
was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our 
guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. 
She gave it to me with numerous other things to 
carry home as curiosities. 

There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and 
I could scarcely be persuaded that some naughty 
•George Washington with his little hatchet had not 
felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead 
of the beaver with only their four front teeth. 

The timber along the creek is burr oak, black wal- 
nut, white ash, pine, cedar, hackberry, elm, iron- 
w T ood, and cotton-wood. I was sorry to hear of a 
saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up 
quite a good deal of lumber. 

Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, 
and from him I learned he was the first minister that 
held services in Long Pine, which was in April, '82, 
in the railroad eating house, and has since held reg- 
ular services every two weeks. Also preaches at 
Ainsworth, Johnstown, Pleasant Dale, and Brinker- 
hoff ; only seventy of a membership in all. 

Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and 
after tea, a swing between the tall oak trees of their 
dooryard, another drink from the spring across the 
creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora 
Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another 
look at Giddy Peak and White Cliffs, and "Tramp 
tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr. S. joined, 






THROUGH NEBRASKA. 139 

for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York 
state, and with many thanks and promises of re- 
membrance, I leave my newly-formed friends, carry- 
ing with me tokens of their kindness, but, best of all, 
fond memories of my day at " Pilgrim's Retreat." 

But before I leave on the train to-night I must 
tell you of the beginning of Long Pine, and what it 
now is. The town was located in June, '81. The 
first train was run the following October. Mr. T. 
H. Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. 
H. J. Severance and pitched a boarding tent, 14x16, 
from which they fed the workmen on the railroad, 
accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the 
tent was followed by a <*ood hotel which was opened 
on Thanksgiving day.* Now there is one bank, two 
general stores, one hardware, one grooery, one drug, 
and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a res- 
turant. Population 175. j 

From a letter rece'. ved from C. B. Glover, written 
December 15, I glean the following: 

" You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the 
little village you visited last May. There have been 
a good many substantial buildings put up since then. 
Notably is the railroad eating house, 22x86, ten two- 
story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is 
now the end of both passenger and freight division. 
The Brown County bank has moved into their 20x40 
two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the sec- 
ond story. The G. A. R. occupying the upper room 



140 THEOUGH NEBRASKA. 

of I. H. Skinner's hardware, where also religious 
services are regularly held. Preparations are being 
made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree. The 
high school, under the able managment of Rev. M. 
Laverty, is proving a success in every sense of the 
word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting in a $10,000 flour- 
ing mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also 
a saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. 
Upstill, on the Pine, three-fourths mile from town, 
has been running nearly all summer sawing pine and 
black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat go- 
ing thirty bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. 
Vegetables big. A potato raised by Mr. Sheldon, 
near Morrison's bridge, actually measured twenty-four 
inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one- 
half short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what 
the sand hills of north-western Nebraska can pro- 
duce. Our government lands are fast disappearing, 
but by taking time, and making thorough examina- 
tion of what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions 
can be had by going back from the railroad ten, fifteen, 
and twenty miles. 

" The land here is not all the same grade, a portion 
being fit for nothing but grazing. This is why peo- 
ple cannot locate at random. Timber culture relin- 
quishments are selling for from $300 to §1,000; 
deeded lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. 
Most of this land has been taken up during the past 
year. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 141 

" I have made an estimate of the government land 
still untaken in our county, and find as follows : 

"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a 
township, 4 quarters to a section, 11,808 quarter sec- 
tions. We have about 1,500 voters. Allowing one 
claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, 
it will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry 
under the homestead, pre-emption, and timber culture 
laws. 

"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the 
county, and fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river. 
Regarding the proposed bridge across the river, it is 
not yet completed; think it will be this winter." 

From an entirely uninterested party, and one who 
knows the country well, I would quote: "Should say 
that perhaps one-third of Brown county is too sandy 
for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average 
favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, 
and I think further developments will prove the sand- 
hills that so many complain of, to be a good produc- 
ing soil." 

Water is good and easily obtained. 

The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the nar- 
row valley of the creek, and almost completely hid by 
its depth, so that looking around on the table-land, 
not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a dis- 
tance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like 
bushes. Long Pine and Valentine are just the oppo- 
site in scenery. 



142 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all 
through this country, are of a clear, white sand. 

But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. 
Though my time has been so pleasantly and profita- 
bly spent here, yet I am glad to be eastward bound. 

Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his 
mother on their way back from Valentine, and also 
the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on the 
Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order 
from a new merchant just opening a store near the 
colony. 

Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the 
Fort, but not so pleasant was the coming from Val- 
entine to-night, as a number of the cow boys seen at 
the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were 
drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their 
betting. As he and his mother were the only passen- 
gers besides them, it was very unpleasant. The 
roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a 
ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought 
had known a better life. And there the poor boy lay, 
monopolizing five seats for his sole use, by turning 
three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to lie 
on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. 
It is a gift given only to cow boys to monopolize so 
much room, for almost anyone would sooner hang 
themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat ; so 
he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep. 

How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 143 

welcomed by Mrs. Wood in the " wee sma 5 " hours 
with : " Glad you are safe back." 

Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost un- 
touched prairie spot, 219 miles from Missouri Val- 
ley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry 
brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a 
"Fourth" all to themselves on their newly taken 
homestead, which now forms a part of the town plat, 
surveyed in the fall of '81 ; at that time having but 
two occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In Novem- 
ber, the same year, the first train puffed into the new 
town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter Stuart, 
a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the 
town-site on the south. 

Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? 
Well, the building up of a town along the line of a 
western railroad that opens up a new, rich country, 
is very much the same. One by one they gather at 
first, until the territory is tested, then in numbers, 
coming from everywhere. 

But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the 
hidden sea of oil of Pennsylvania, so about the only 
difference is that the western town is permanent. 
Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and 
then the substantial ones when time and money are 
more plenty. 

So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count 
one church (Pres.), which was used for a school room 
last winter, two hotels, two general stores, principal of 



144 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm 
implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, 
a harness and blacksmith shop, and a bank. 

Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian 
camping ground, which was visited but two years 
ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on 
the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that 
the winding Elkhorn has here looked on wilder 
scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of 
April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists 
stepped down and out from their homes in the old 
"Keystone" into the "promised land," and shot at 
the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not re- 
peat the story of the first chapter. 

Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the 
time of which I have written, I must add what im- 
provements, or a few at least, that the lapse of time 
has brought to the little town that can very appro- 
priately be termed " the Plymouth rock of the N. M. 
A. C." 

From The Stuart Ledger we quote : The Method- 
ists have organized with a membership of twenty- 
four, and steps have been taken for the building of a 
church. Services now held every alternate Sunday 
by Rev. Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian 
church, of which Rev. Benson is pastor. Union 
Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of 
Hope, a temperance organization. A new school 
house, 24x42, where over 60 children gather to be in- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 145 

structed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss Mamie 
Woods. An opera house 22x60, two stories high, 
Mrs. Arter's building, 18x24, two stories. Two M. 
D.'s have been added, a dentist, and a photographer. 
It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will close with 
music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter 
received from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. 
W. Warner, Dec. 24 : " Population of Stuart is now 
382, an increase of 70 within the last two months. 
Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue 
to come in their i schooners.' 

"No good government land to be had near town. 
Soil from one to three feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. 
First snow, middle of November, hardly enough to 
speak of, and no more until 22d of December." 

But to return to our story. My "Saratoga was 
a "traveling companion" of my own thinking up, 
but much more convenient, and which served as 
satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, 
I will describe its make-up. Two yards of cloth, de- 
sired width, bind ends with tape, and work corres- 
ponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets, 
closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the 
middle of the cloth, and sew up the sides, a string to 
lace the ends together, and your satchel is ready to 
put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full length ; 
roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did 
not want to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, 
and improvised the above, and was really surprised 



146 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can 
be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or 
common satchel; and also used as a pillow. This 
with a convenient hand-satchel was all I used. These 
packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colon- 
ists, and the dear friends that had been friends in- 
deed to me, and kissing "wee Nellie" last of all, I 
bid farewell to Stuart. 

The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I 
am with friends. Mr. Lahaye, one of the colonists, 
was returning to Bradford for his family. Mrs. 
Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were 
also aboard. 

Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have 
since gleaned the following from an old schoolmate, 
Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place: "When I came to 
Atkinson, first of March, '83, 1 found two stores, two 
hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three resi- 
dences. Now we have a population of 300, a large 
school building (our schools have a nine month's ses- 
sion), M. E. ard Presbyterian churches, each costing 
about $2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the 
Atkinson Graphic, several stores, and many other 
conveniences too numerous to mention. Last March, 
but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; 
now about 500. There has been a wonderful immi- 
gration to this part of Holt county during the past 
summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and 
Iowa, though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsyl- 






THROUGH NEBRASKA. 147 

vania, and New York. Six miles east of this place, 
where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last 
March, is now a finely settled community, with a 
school house, Sunday school, and preaching every 
two weeks. Some good government lands can be had 
eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be 
taken by next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn 
river, and water is easily obtained at 20 to 40 feet. 
Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton." 

I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven 
of our crowded coach get off. Some coming even 
from Valentine, a distance of 114 miles, to attend 
Robinson's circus — but shows are a rarity here. The 
light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill 
and surrounding couutry: the town a little distance 
from the depot, gently rolling prairie, the river with 
its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there set- 
tlers' homes with their culture of timber. 

O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a 
leader of the Fenians, and a colony of his own coun- 
trymen. It is now the county seat C*' Holt county, 
and has a population of about 800. Has three 
churches, Catholic, Presbyterian, and M. E.; com- 
munity is largely Catholic. It has three papers, The 
Frontier, Holt County Banner, both republican, and 
O'Neill Tribune, Democratic, and three saloons. It 
is about a mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a 
few years ago in Omaha. 

Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is sit- 



148 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

uated near the Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet 
wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this point. The town 
was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad 
was completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 
29, '80. Gates college located at Neligh by the Co- 
lumbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81. U. S. 
land office removed to Neligh in '81. M. E. church 
built in '83. County seat located Oct. 2, ? 83. Court 
house in course of erection, a private enterprise by the 
citizens. 

I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, 
and who has also given a long list of the business 
houses of Neligh, but it is useless to repeat, as every 
department of business and trade is well represented, 
and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people 
will bring into a western town. 

To write up all the towns along the way would be 
but to repeat much that has already been said of 
others, and the story of their added years of existence, 
that has made them what the frontier towns of to-day 
will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean 
further ? 

The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and inter- 
esting in its bright, new robes of green. At Battle 
Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost weaving 
high. 

It was interesting to note the advance in the 
growth of vegetation as we went south through Mad- 
ison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 149 

That this chapter may be complete, I would add 
all I know of the road to Missouri Valley — its start- 
ing point — and for this we have Mr. J. R. Buchanan 
for authority. 

There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about 
five miles south of the present Blair, which was located 
by the S. C. & P .R. R. company in 1869, and named 
for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New 
Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the 
building of the road. Blair being a railroad town 
soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was worth 
$1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a 
population; is the prosperous county seat of Washing- 
ton county. Land in the vicinity is worth from 
$25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no superior; 
this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels 
of wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty 
bushels of corn. Land up the Elkhorn Valley five 
years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre, now it is 
worth from $12.00 to $30.00. 

The S. C. & P. R. R. proper was built from Sioux 
City, Iowa, and reached Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. 
It had a small land grant of only about 100,000 
acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri 
River Railroad was organized and subsequently built 
from Fremont to Valentine, the direct route that 
nature made from the Missouri river to the Black 
Hills. 

As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. 



150 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Whether, or when it will go to the Pacific coast is a 
question for the future. The Missouri river proper 
is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it 
the channel has been confined by a system of willow 
mattress work, until the bridge channel is covered by 
three spans 333 feet each or 1,000 feet. The bridge 
is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments 
built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath 
the bed of the river. This bridge was completed in 
November, 1883, at a cost of over $1,000,000. 

But good-bye, reader'; the conductor says this is 
Fremont, and I must leave the S. C. for the U. P. R- 
R. and begin a new chapter. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 



151 



CHAPTER III. 

Over the U. P. R. R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln. 
A description of the great Platte Valley. 

I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to 
my friends, but a depot is no place to stop and think, 
so I straightway attended to putting some unnecessary 
baggage in the care of the baggage-master until I re- 
turned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day 
to charge storage on baggage that is left over, but if 
you will allow me to remove the check, I will care for 
it without charge/' One little act of kindness shown 
me already. 

At the U. P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay 
Reynolds, ticket agent, who held letters for me, and 
my ticket over the U. P. road, which brother had 
secured and left in his care. He greeted me with : 
" Am glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your 
brother was disappointed at not meeting you here, 
and telegraphed but could get no answer. Feared 
you had gone to Valentine and been shot." 

"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasi- 
ness," I replied, "but the telegram came to Stuart 
when I was out at the location, and so could not let 
him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages 
of colonizing on the frontier." 



152 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

"Your brother said he would direct your letters in 
my care, and I have been inquiring for you — but you 
must stop on your return and see the beauties of Fre- 
mont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you." 

Well, I thought, more friends to make the way 
pleasant, and as it was not yet train time, I went to 
the post-office. The streets were thronged with peo- 
ple observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to 
see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the 
"Forest City;" I was almost tempted to pluck a 
snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden. I 
certainly was carried past greener fields as the train 
bounded westward along the Platte valley, than I 
had seen north on the Elkhorn. 

The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with 
low banks, and barren of everything but sand. ISTow 
we are close to its banks, and again it is lost in the 
distance. The valley is very wide ; all the land oc- 
cupied and much under cultivation. 

I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a 
fountain in the railroad garden at Grand Island, 
tinging every drop of water with its amber light, 
making it a beautiful sight. 

Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along 
the way, named from an island in the river forty 
miles long and from one to three miles wide. I was 
anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down 
and hindered all further sight-seeing. 

The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentle- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 153 

• 

man was u confidenced " out of sixty dollars, which 
made him almost sick, but his wife declares, " It is 
just good for him — no business to let the man get his 
hand on his money ! " 

"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as 
we have room," the conductor says ; but the lady go- 
ing to Cheyenne, who shares my seat, assisted, and 
we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of 
the old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, 
and put my gloves on to protect my ring from slid- 
ing oif, and sleep until two o'clock, when the con- 
ductor wakes me with, " Almost at North Platte, 
Miss." 
«' I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did 
not know the hour would be so unreasonable. I 
scarcely expected to find her at the depot, but there 
she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to 
welcome me with, " I am so glad you have come, 
Frances) " 

We had never met before, but had grown quite 
familiar through our letters, and it was pleasant to be 
received with the same familiarity and not as a 
stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, 
and found Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me. 

To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the 
home of u Buffalo Bill," and of the trophies he has 
gathered from the hunt, chase, and trail, and seeing 
and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning 
much of the real life of the noted western scout from 
10 



154 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Mrs. C, whom we found to be a lady of refinement and 
pleasing manners, would make a long story. Their 
beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from 
the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of 
three daughters : Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, 
with clear, dark complexion, black hair, perfect fea- 
tures, and eyes that are beyond description in color and 
expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of 
the sweet teens. Her education has by no means 
been neglected, but instead is taking a thorough course 
in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but deli- 
cate child of eleven summers, with Her father's finely 
cut features and his generous big-heartedness ; and 
wee babe Irma, the cherished pet of all. Their only 
son, Kit Carson, died young. 

It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and 
sisters so affectionate as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. 
Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and the mothee 
and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill thr 
void the husband and father's almost constant ab- 
sence makes. He has amassed enough of this world's 
wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with his 
family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to 
the life he has always known, that it could be no en- 
joyment to him. 

To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted 
into the life of the "wild west," and which has be- 
come second nature to him, I quote the following 
from " The Life of Buffalo Bill." 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 155 

His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original 
surveyors of Davenport, Iowa, and for several years 
drove stage between Chicago and Davenport. Was 
also justice of the peace, and served one term in the 
legislature from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, 
and established a trading post at Salt Creek Valley, 
near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas 
was occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who 
were settled on reservations, and through the terri- 
tory ran the great highway to California and Salt 
Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers and 
Mormons. 

Living so near the Indians, " Billy " soon became 
acquainted Avith their language, and joined them in 
their sport, learning to throw the lance and shoot 
with bow and arrow. 

In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the 
Enabling Act, that had just passed, and was twice 
stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery man, and by 
this class his life was constantly threatened; and 
made a burden from ill health caused by the wounds, 
until in '57, when he died. After the mother and 
children all alone had prepared the body for burial, 
in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party 
of armed men came to take the life that had just gone 
out. 

Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay 
and support, doing service as a herder, and giving 
his earnings to his mother. The first blood he 



156 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl 
sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever 
attended, and thinking he had almost killed his little 
boy adversary, he fled, and took refuge in a freight 
wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him from 
home for forty days, and then returned to find he 
was freely forgiven for the slight wound he had in- 
flicted. Later he entered the employ of the great 
freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty be- 
ing to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to 
Salt Lake City to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, 
then operating against the Mormons, who at that time 
were so bitter that they employed the help of the In- 
dians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. 
The great freighting business of this firm was done in 
wagons carrying a capacity of 7,000 pounds, and 
drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train 
consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remem- 
ber this was before a railroad spanned the continent, 
and was the only means of transportation beyond the 
states. 

It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy 
Cody killed his first Indian. When just beyond old 
Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a party of In- 
dians, and the three night herders while rounding up 
the cattle, were killed. The rest of the party re- 
treated after killing several braves, amd when near 
Plum Creek, Billy became separated from the rest, 
and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 15 i 

of ,the creek, took aim and brought to the dust his 
first Indian. This "first shot" won for him a name 
and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young as he, 
and filled him with ambition and daring for the life 
he has since led. Progressing from freight boy to 
pony express rider, stage driver, hunter, trapper, and 
Indian scout in behalf of the government, which of- 
fice he filled well and was one of the best, if not the 
very best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, 
'65, to Miss Louisa Fredrica, of French descent, of St. 
Louis; was elected to legislature in 1871, but the 
place was filled by another while he continued his ex- 
hibitions on the stage. 

When any one is at loss for a name for anything 

they wish to speak of, they just call it buffalo and 

as a consequence, there are buffalo gnats, buffalo birds, 
buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss, grass, 
burrs, and "Buffalo Bill/' a title given to William 
Cody, when he furnished buffalo meat for the U. P. 
R. R. builders and hunted with the Grand Duke 
Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one 
day. 

I did not at the time of visiting North Platte 
think of writing up the country so generally, so did 
not make extra exertions to see and learn of the coun- 
try as I should have done. And as there was a 
shower almost every afternoon of my stay, we did 
not get to drive out as Miss Arta and I had planned 
to do. North Platte, the county- seat of Lincoln 



158 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 
2,789 feet above the sea level, between and near the 
junction of the North and South Platte rivers. The 
U. P. P. P. was finished to this point first of December, 
1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty build- 
ings erected on the town site. Before the advent of 
the railroad, when all provisions had to be freighted, 
one poor meal cost from one to two dollars. 

North Platte is now nicely built up with good 
homes and business houses, and rapidly improving 
in every way. The United States Land office of the 
western district embraces the government land of 
Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, 
Gosper, and Custer counties and all unorganized terri- 
tory. All I can see of the surrounding country is 
very level and is used for grazing land, as stock rais- 
ing is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali 
is quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it 
and the sand are fast disappearing, and the rainfall 
increasing. No trees to be seen but those which have 
been cultivated. 

Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and 
stealthy habits of the Indians, told of a dinner she 
had prepared at a great expense and painstaking for 
six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had in- 
vited to share with him, and while she was receiving 
them at the front door six Indians entered at a rear 
door, surrounded the table, and without ceremony or 
carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chick- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 159 

ens and highly enjoying the good things they had 
found when they were discovered, which was not un- 
til she led the way to the dining room, thinking with 
so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and 
how they would enjoy it. 

" Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the 
six uninvited guests, but while I cried with mortifi- 
cation, the officers laughed and enjoyed the joke." 

Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of 
North Platte, but was abandoned four years ago. 

Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining 
home I was anxious to be on the home way, and bid- 
ing Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot, I left 
Monday evening for Plum Creek. 

How little I thought when I kissed the dear child 
Orra good-bye, and whom I had already learned to 
love, that I would have the sad duty of adding a trib- 
ute to her memory. Together we took my last walk 
about their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel 
walks, flowers from the lawn and leaves from the 
trees, for me to carry away. 

I left her a very happy child over the anticipation 
of a trip to the east where the family would join Mr. 
Cody for some time. I cannot do better than to quote 
from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken 
mother. 

" Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, 
was called from us on the 24th of October, '83, and we 
carried her remains to Rochester, N. Y., and laid 



160 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

them by the side of her little brother, in a grave 
lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited 
the sacred spot last summer, she said: 'Mamma, 
won't you lay me by brother's side when I die?' Oh, 
how soon we have had to grant her request ! If it- 
was not for the hope of heaven and again meeting 
there, my affliction would be more than I could bear, 
but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely 
child to me for these short years, and can say, ' Thy 
will be done.' ". 

Night traveling again debarred our seeing much 
that would have been interesting, but it was my most 
convenient train, and an elderly lady from Ft. Collins, 
Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how 
they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years 
ago, and now could not be induced to return. Lived 
at the foot of mountains that had never been without 
a snow-cap since she first saw them. 

Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as 
I had no friends to meet me here, asked to be directed 
to a hotel, and remarked that we preferred a temper- 
ance hotel. " That's all the kind we keep here," the 
gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was 
shown to the Johnston House. 

I had written to old friends and neighbors who 
had left Pennsylvania about a year ago, and located 
twenty-five miles south-west of Plum creek, to meet 
me here; but letters do not find their way out to the 
little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 161 

their coming Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of 
the early history of Plum Creek. 

Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we 
were introduced to Judge R. B. Pierce, who came 
from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April, 1873, and 
was soon after elected county judge, which office he 
still holds. He told how they had found no signs of 
a town but a station house, and lived in box-cars 
with a family of five children until he built a house, 
which was the first dwelling-house on the present 
town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and 
platted a town-site one mile east, but the railroad 
company located the station just a mile further 
west. 

Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson 
County Pioneer, of date July 20th, 1876, from which 
I gather the following history : 

" On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a 
proclamation for the organization of the county. At 
the first election, held July 11/71, at the store of D. 
Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the 
entire population of the county did not exceed forty 
souls, all fold. But the Centennial Fourth found 
a population of 2,716 prosperous people, 614 of 
whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incor- 
porated March, 1874, and named for a creek a few 
miles east tributary to the Platte ; and which in old 
staging days was an important point. 

" The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north- 



162 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

east, the bluffs affording good hiding places for the 
stealthy Indians. 

"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge 
spanning the Platte river, three miles south of the 
town, the completion of which was celebrated July 
4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of Co- 
lumbus. 

" In '74 the court house was built. We will quote 
in full of the churches, to show that those who go 
west do not always leave their religion behind. As 
early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the Catholic 
church, held services at the old station house. In 
the fall of '72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first 
Methodist society in the county, with a membership 
of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev. Bishop 
Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church 
was built in '75, which was the first church built in 
the town. In '74 the Missionary Baptist Society was 
formed. In '73 the Presbyterian congregation was 
organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary. 

" Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like an- 
gels' visits, few and far between, until April 9th, 
1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska colony ar- 
rived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 
2d, under charge of P. J. Pearson. 

"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, 
and children. Their first habitation was four box- 
cars, kindly placed on a side track by the U. P. R. R. 
Co. for their use until they could build their houses." 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 163 

I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor 
Pioneer, whom I questioned as. to their prosperity. 
He said : " Those who remained have done well, but 
some returned, and others have wandered , farther 
west, until there is not many of us left ; only about 
eight families that are now residents of the town. 
We were so completely eaten out by the grasshoppers 
in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was 
very discouraging." 

I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just 
landed and drove their stakes in the soil of northern 
Nebraska, and hoped they may be driven deep and 
firm, and their trials be less severe. 

"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide 
to lead them over the treeless, stoneless, trackless 
prairie, and served the purpose of light-house to many 
a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after they 
landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, 
whose mission was supposed to be that of looking 
after horses to steal, seeing they were prepared for 
them, turned and rode off. Six miles west of Plum 
Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, 
in which two men were killed, and two escaped ; one 
minus a scalp, but still living." 

Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 
1873, and opened a hotel in a 16x20 shanty, with a 
sod kitchen attached ; and how the cattle men, who 
were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in 
any way they could, while they enlarged their hotel 



164 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

at different times until it is now the Johnston House, 
the largets and best hotel in Plum Creek. 

While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered 
the office, to transact some business, and as he left, the 
Judge remarked — 

" That man came to me to be married about a year 
ago, and I asked him how old the lady was he wished 
to marry. i Just fifteen/ he answered. I can't grant 
you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 
'Wait?' [No; he get a buggy, drove post-haste 
down into Kansas, and was married. He lives near 
your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can 
take you out with him." So, through his help, I 
took passage in Mr. John Anderson's wagon, Wed- 
nesday noon, along with his young wife, and a fam- 
ily just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania. 

The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was 
eager to improve even this opportunity to get to my 
friends. 

Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over 
land that is quite white with alkali, but beyond the 
river there is little surface indication of it. For the 
novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked 
the bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across 
met Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh — our old neighbor — 
coming to town, and who was greatly surprised, as 
they had not received my letter. 

We had not gone far until our faces were burning 
with the hot wind and sun, and for a protection we 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 165 

tied our handkerchiefs across our faces, just below 
our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly 
west along the green valley, the river away to our 
right, and a range of bluffs to our left, which increase 
in height as we go westward. Passed finely im- 
proved homes that had been taken by the first set- 
tlers, and others where the new beginners yet lived 
in their " brown stone fronts " (sod houses). 

Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas 
cattle, 3,000 in one herd, making it dangerous for 
travelers. 

Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story 
and a-half sod house built with an L ; shingled roof, 
and walls as smooth and white as any lathed and 
plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod 
houses are built right on the top of the ground, with- 
out the digging or building of a foundation. The 
sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then built 
the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. 
The heat of the summer can hardly penetrate the 
thick walls, and, too, they prove a good protection 
from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used 
for sheep. 

Almost every family have their " western post- 
office:" a little box nailed to a post near the road, 
where the mail carrier deposits and receives the 
mail. 

. Now for many miles west the government land is 
taken, and the railroad land bought. Much of the 



166 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

land is cultivated and the rest used for pasture. The 
corn is just peeping through the sod. 

Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other 
an 8x10 frame, where the teacher received twenty- 
five dollars per month. It is also used for holding 
preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in. 

It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it 
is now dark ; but the stars creep out from the ether 
blue, and the new moon looks down upon us lonely 
travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may 
I be safe in my own native land ! " I wished, when I 
first saw its golden crest. I know dear mother will 
be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily sang : 

" I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild, 

And feel that my mother now thinks of her child, 

As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door, 

Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more." 

I could not say " no more." To chase sadness away 
I sang, and was joined by Mr. A., who was familiar 
with the songs of the old " Key Note," and together 
we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But 
none could I sing with more emphasis than — 

" Oh give me back my native hills, 
Rough, rugged though they be, 
No other land, no other clime 
Is half so dear to me." 

But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, 
" There's a light in the window for thee," in which 
he joined at first, but stopped, saying : 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 167 

" I can't sing that ; 'twas the last song I sung 
with my brothers and sisters the night before I left 
my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I don't 
think I have tried to sing it since." 

All along the valley faint lights glimmered from 
lonely little homes. I thought every cottager should 
have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes down, a 
" good night " shouted from east to west along the 
valley, until it echoed from bluff to bluff. 

But the longest journey must have an end, and at 
last we halted at Mr. A.'s door, too late for me to go 
farther. But was off early in the morning on horse- 
back, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for 
Mr. A., to take his mother by surprise, and break- 
fast with her. 

Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my 
worst enemy, to go with me on that morning ride. 

Rough ? 

There now, don't say anything more about it. It 
is good to forget some things; I can feel the top of 
my head flying off yet with every jolt, as that horse 
tried to trot — perhaps it was my poke hat that was 
coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, 
I would have quoted Mark Twain, hung my hat on 
its ear and looked for a nail in its foot. 

When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it de- 
serted, and we had to go three miles farther on. Six 
miles before breakfast. 

" Now/Zeke, we will go direct ; take straight across 



168 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

and I will follow: mind, we don't want to be going 
round many corners." 

"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a 
gopher hole and throw you; can you stand another 
trot?" 

And I would switch my trotter, but would soon 
have to rein him up, and laugh at my attempt at rid- 
ing. 

It was not long until we were within sight of the 
house where Zeke's sister lived, and when within 
hearing distance we ordered — "Breakfast for two!" 
When near the house we concentrated all our eques- 
trian skill into a " grand gallop." 

Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering 
who was coming; but my laugh betrayed me, and 
when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the door, 
I was received with : " I just knew that was Pet Ful- 
ton by the laugh ;" and as I slipped down, right into 
their arms, I thought after all the ride was well 
worth the taking, and the morning a grand one. 
Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the 
mirage on the river, showing distinctly the river, 
islands, and towns; but all faded away as the mir- 
age died out, and then the ride over the green prai- 
rie, bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock break- 
fasting with old friends. 

We swung around the circle of Indiana county 
friends, the Butterbaughs and Fairbanks, until Mon- 
day. Must say I enjoyed the swing very much. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 169 

Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east 
and west, a half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. 
Climbed bluff after bluff, only to come to a jumping 
off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To 
peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, 
but I held tight to the grass or a soap weed stalk, 
and looked. We climbed to the top of one of the 
highest, from which we could see across the valley to 
the Platte river three miles away — the river a mile 
in width, and the wide valley beyond, to the bluffs 
that range along its northern bounds. The U. P. 
R. R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. 
B. says the trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum 
Creek, twenty miles to the east, is in plain view, the 
buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes Cozad, 
Willow Island — almost opposite, and Gothenburg, 
where the first house was built last February, and 
now has about twenty. I would add the following 
from a letter received Dec. 21, '83: 

Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the 
county wdiere but five families lived in the spring of 
'82, now are 300, and that number is to be more than 
doubled by spring. 

But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and 
west, it is wave after wave of bluffs covered with 
buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight until we get 
down into the canyons, which wind around among 
the hills and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a 
drop of water, stone or pebble; now it is only a brook 
11 



170 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

in width, now a creek, and almost a river. The 
pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, 
and are of every size, shape and height; A clay like 
soil they call calcine, in strata from white to reddish 
brown, forms their walls. They seemed like excellent 
homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed with 
a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how aes- 
thetic we have grown since coming west!) we did not 
care to prospect — would much rather look at the deer 
tracks. 

The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, 
box elder, and cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fif- 
teen miles for wood as it is all taken near him. 
Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain cran- 
berries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and 
are overrun with grape-vines. 

Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, 
and I thought to bring it home to transplant; but 
cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor fragrant; and 
if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus 
flower? But I did think I would like a prairie dog 
for a pet, and a full grown doggie was caught and 
boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt bring- 
ing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska me- 
nagerie when I returned.) Jack rabbits are larger 
than the common rabbits and very deceitful, and if 
shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not touched. 
A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop 
off so lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it — 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 171 

well, lie didn't catch the rabbit, and spent two days 
in searching before he found his gun. 

Sunday. We attended Sabbath school in the sod 
school house, and Monday morning early were off on 
the long ride back to Plum creek with Mr. and Mrs. 
H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at 
dinner time. Under a shade tree ? No, indeed ; not 
a tree to be seen — only a few willows on the islands 
in the river, showing that where it is protected from 
fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this val- 
ley will be a garden of cultivated timber and fields. 
I must speak of the brightest flower that is blooming 
on it now ; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms same 
as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, 
but it is not a climber. How could it be, unless it 
twined round a grass stalk? 

The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, 
but much the widest part of the valley is north of 
the river. The bluffs on the north are rolling, and 
on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of the val- 
ley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of no- 
tice. Water is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet 
on the valley, but on the table-land at a much greater 
depth. Before we reached the bridge, we heard it 
was broken down, and no one could cross. " Can- 
not we ford it?" I asked. " No, the quicksand 
makes it dangerous." " Can we cross on a boat, 
then?" " A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. 
No way of crossing if the bridge is down." But we 



172 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

found the bridge so tied together that pedestrians could 
cross. As I stooped to dip my haud in the muddy 
waves of the Platte I thought it was little to be ad- 
mired but for its width, and the few green islands. 
The banks are low, and destitute of everything but 
grass. 

The Platte river is about ] ,200 miles long. It is 
formed by the uniting of the South Platte that rises 
in Colorado, and the North Platte that rises in Wy- 
oming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides 
into the North and South Platte. About two-thirds of 
the state being on the north. It finds an outlet in 
the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It has a 
fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shal- 
low, and rapid — running over a great bed of sand 
that is constantly washing and changing, and so 
mingled with the waters that it robs it of its bright- 
ness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a 
system of under ground drainage through a bed of 
sand, and supplies the Republican river in the south- 
ern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than 
the Platte. 

We were fortunate in securing a hack for the re- 
maining three miles of our jourjey, and ten o'clock 
found me waiting for the eastern bound train. I 
would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 
600. I have described Dawson county more fully 
as it was in Central Nebraska our colony first thought 
of locating, and a number of them have bought large 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 173 

tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. 
That the Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a 
doubt. It is useless to give depth of soil and its 
production, but will add the following : 

Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 
1883, 778 bushels wheat from 35 acres. Corn aver- 
aged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30; and barley 
about 40 bushels per acre. 

First frost was on the 9th of October. W inter 
generally begins last of December, and ends with 
February. The hottest day of last summer was 108 
degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 de- 
grees below, which is the* lowest it has yet (January 
15) fallen, and has been asdiigb as 36 above since. 

The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, 
where the B. & M. R. II. tonus a junction with the 
U. P. R. R. 

In looking over the early history of Buffalo county 
we find it much the same, except in dates a little 
earlier than that of Dawson county. First settlers 
in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in 
'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and 
the first tax list shows but thirty-eight names. Kear- 
ney, the county-seat, is on the north side of the river 
200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160 
miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first of- 
fered for sale in '72, but the town was not properly 
organized until in '73. Since that time its growth 
has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and 



174 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has 
under good way a canal to utilize the waters of the 
Platte. 

Fremont the " Forest City/ 7 is truly so named 
from the many trees that hide much of the city from 
view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar, maple, box- 
elder, and many others that have been cultivated. 
Fremont, named in honor of General Fremont and 
his great overland tour in 1842 and, was platted 
in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had 
claimed but which had been bought from them, re- 
ceiving $20,000 in gold and silver and $20,000 in 
goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river 
and towed the logs across that built the old stage 
house which his mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, 
but which has given way to the large and commo- 
dious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, 
was celebrated at Fremont by about one hundred 
whites and a multitude of Indians; but now it can 
boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and 
churches. It is the junction of the U. P. R. R. and 
the S. C. & P. R. R. I must add that it was the only 
place of all that I visited where I found any sickness, 
and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been 
bad for some time, owing, some thought, to the use of 
water obtained too near the surface, and the many 
shade trees, as some of the houses are entirely ob- 
scured from the direct rays of the sun. 

I will not attempt to touch on the country as we 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 175 

neared Omaha along the way, as it is all improved 
lands, and I do not like its appearance as well as 
much of the unimproved land I have seen. We 
reached Omaha about seven o'clock. I took a car- 
riage for the Millard hotel and had breakfast. At 
the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt 
Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commis- 
sioner of the U. P. R. R. land company since 1878, 
and fills it honestly and well. 

Omaha, the " Grand Gateway of the West," was 
named for the Omaha Indians, who were the original 
landholders, but with whom a treaty was made in 
1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three 
years had been ferrying the " Pike's Peak or bust" 
gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska shores, and 
"busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered 
the present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone 
Tree Ferry, as a homestead in the same year. In the 
next year the oity of Omaha was founded. The "Gen- 
eral Marion " was the first ferry steamer that plied 
across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 
was the bridge completed. All honor to the name of 
Harrison Johnston, who plowed the first furrow of 
which there is any record, paying the Indians ten 
dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame 
house in Omaha, and which is yet standing near the 
old Capitol on Capitol Hill. 

The first religious services held in Omaha were 
under an arbor erected for the first celebration of the 



176 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton, Congregational- 
ist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the 
Iowa shore, was, in the early days, used as a " camp- 
ing ground " by the Mormons, where they gathered 
until a sufficient number was ready to make a train and 
take up the line of march over the then great barren 
plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, 
over fifty feet above the river, which is navigable for 
steamers only at high water tides. It is 500 miles 
from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis. It 
was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. 
What Omaha now is would be vain for me to attempt 
to tell. That it is Nebraska's principal city, with 
40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient. 

I had written my friends living near Lincoln to 
meet me on Monday, and as this was Tuesday there 
was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln, about 
four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the 
baggage-master, and asking him to take good care of 
my doggie, I asked to be directed to a hotel, and left 
word where my friends would find me. The Arling- 
ton House was crowded, and then I grew determined 
to in some way reach my friends. Had I known 
where they lived I could have employed a liveryman 
to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles 
west of Lincoln, and that was all. Well, I thought, 
there cannot be many homoeopathic physicians in Lin- 
coln, and one of them will surely know where Gard- 
ners live, for their doctor was often called when livin g 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 177 

in Pennsylvania. But a better thought came — that 
of the Baptist minister, as they attended that church. 
I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and through 
his kindness I learned where the minister lived, 
whom, after a long walk, I found. "I am sorry I 
have no way of taking you to your friends, but as it 
is late we would be glad to have you stop with us to- 
night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thank- 
fully declined his kind offer, and he then directed me 
to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin Gertrude made her 
home while attending school. After another rather 
long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a 
gentleman I met. " Keefer '? Do they keep a board- 
ing-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if you 
will follow me I will show you right to the house." 
Another mile walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; 
but they searched the City Directory, and found that 
I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I have 
taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help 
you to find the right place," and at last swung open 
the right gate ; and as I stood waiting an answer to 
my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln 
in my walking up and down— at least all I cared to. 
But the welcome "Trude's Cousin Pet" received 
from the Keefer family, added to the kindness others 
had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of 
its unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to 
the tea-table, and I was seated drinking iced-tea 
and eating strawberries from their own garden, as 



178 THROUGH .NEBRASKA. 

though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling 
stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kind- 
ness that nothing but experience could have taught 
me. After tea Mr. Ed. and Miss Marcia Keefer 
drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how 
I thought of finding them through the doctors, 
Cousin Maggie said : " Well, my girlie, you would 
have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived 
in Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor/' 

And, reader, now " let's take a rest," but wish to 
add before closing this chapter, that the U. P. P. P. 
was the first road built in Nebraska. Ground was 
broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found 
only forty miles of track laid. The road reached 
Julesburg, now Denver Junction, in June, '67, and 
the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which con- 
nected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific 
railroad, and was the first railroad that spanned the 
continent. The present mileage is 4,652 miles, and 
several hundred miles is in course of construction. J. 
W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The 
lands the company yet have for sale are in Custer, 
Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where some govern- 
ment land is yet to be had. 

A colony, known as the " Ex-Soldiers' Colony," 
was formed in Lincoln, Nebraska, in 1883. It ac- 
cepted members from everywhere, and now April 24, 
'84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many 
of whom have gone to the location, forty miles north- 



THEOUGH NEBRASKA. 179 

east of North Platte, in unorganized territory, and 
near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty acres 
were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and 
named Logan, in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. 
Quite a number are already occupying their town 
lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the 
land within reach has been claimed by the colonists. 
The land is all government land, of which about 
one-half is good farming land, and rest fit only for 
grazing. 

This is only one of the many colonies that have 
been planted on Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but 
is one that will be watched with much interest, com- 
posed as it is of the good old " boys in blue." 



180 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Over the B. & M. R. R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, 
and return via Hastings. — A description of .the Republican 
and Blue Valleys. — The Saratoga of Nebraska. 

We rested just one delightful week, talking the old 
days over, making point lace, stealing the first ripe 
cherries, and pulling grass for "Danger" — danger 
of it biting me or getting away — my prairie dog, 
which had found a home in a barrel. 

One evening Cousin Andy said : 

" I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, 
Pet?" 

" Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such 
a price. They say they make nice pets, and I am 
going to take my dog home for Norval. But that 
reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and 
away I went, gathering the tenderest, but, alas ! the 
barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in the side told 
the story. 

I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have 
taken almost any j)rice for the naughty Danger, that, 
though full grown, was no bigger than a Norway 
rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him. 

The weather was very warm, but poor " Wiggins " 
was left on the parlor table in the hotel at Plum 
Creek one night, and in the morning I found him 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 181 

scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so 
we did not know just when to look out for a storm, 
but thunder storms, accompanied with heavy rains, 
came frequently during the week, generally at night, 
but by morning the ground would be in good work- 
ing order. 

Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, 
Pennsylvania, for several years was one of the for- 
tunate oil men of the Venango county field, but a 
couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and 
leaving their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came 
west, and are now earnestly at work building upon a 
surer foundation. 

When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, 
Salt Creek Valley was entirely covered with water, 
and even the high built road was so completely hid- 
den that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin 
Rob Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, 
and thanks to a high-built railroad and my light 
luggage, we were able to walk the rest of th)p way. 
The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncom- 
mon occurrence in the spring of the year. This 
basin or valley covers about 500 acres, and is rather 
a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gath- 
ers until the ground is quite white, and before the 
days of railroads, settlers gathered salt for their cat- 
tle from this valley. The water has an ebb and 
flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in af- 
ternoon. 



182 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Ran- 
dall, immigration agent of the B. & M. R. R., for in- 
formation about southern Nebraska, and while I 
waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, 
on the third floor of the depot, and told him I had 
seen northern and central Nebraska, and was anxious 
to know all I could of southern Nebraska. 

After a few moments conversation, he asked : 

"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss 
Fulton?" 

" Indiana county." 

" Indeed ? why, I have been there to visit a good 
old auntie ; but she is dead now, bless her dear soul," 
and straightway set about showing me all kindness 
and interest. 

At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail 
from the home of his " good old auntie," but I soon 
learned that I only received the same kindness and 
attention that every one does at his hands. 

" Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all 
you can of southern Nebraska, and just tell the plain 
truth about it. For, remember, that truth is the 
great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then 
seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to 
see more friends and more of the state. 

A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat 
with me, but her face was so mild and sweet I soon 
forgot the crutch at her side. She told me she was 
called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 183 

was not expected to live, and whom she had not seen 
since in January last. 

Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her 
through my own experience : I parted with a dar- 
ling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three months 
after her lifeless form was brought home to me with- 
out one word of warning, and I fully realized what it 
would be to receive word of my young brother, whom 
I had not seen since in January, being seriously ill. 
When her station was reached, the brakeman very 
kindly helped her off and my pleasant company was 
gone with my most earnest wishes that she might find 
her brother better. 

( The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch 
the country hurt my eyes, so I gave my attention to 
the passengers. Before me sat a perfect snapper of 
a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in ex- 
pression from her who had sat with me. Another 
lady was very richly dressed, but that was her most 
attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention 
by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet 
children, but so cold and dignified, L wondered she 
did not freeze the love of her little ones. Such peo- 
ple are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them 
just as much. In the rear of the coach were a party 
of emigrants that look as though they had just 
crossed the briny wave. They are the first foreign- 
ers I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to 
join a settlement of their own countrymen. Foreign- 
ers locate as closely together as possible. 



184 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

I was just beginning to grow lonely when an eld- 
erly gentlemen whom I had noticed looking at me 
quite earnestly, came to me and asked : 

"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?" 

" Yes, sir." 

"To Mr. Fulton's?" 

"'Why, yes. You know my friends then?" 

" Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the 
girls, that I knew where you were going." 

No one had ever before told me that I favored this 
cousin in looks, but then there are just as many dif- 
ferent eyes in this world as there are different people. 

"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, 
and she was disappointed at the non-arrival of a 
cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was the 
one she had expected." 

"You know where they live then?" 

" Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet 
you, I will see you to the house." 

With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's 
bankers went back to his seat. As I had supposed, 
my friends had grown tired meeting me when I 
didn't come, as I had written to them I would be 
there the previous week. But Mr. Burch kindly 
took one of my satchels, and left me at my Uncle's 
door. 

7 Bless me ! here is Pet at last !" and dear Aunt 
Jane's arms are around me, and scolding me for dis- 
appointing them so often. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 185 

" The girls and Ed. have been to the depot so often, 
and I wanted them to go to-day, but they said they 
just knew you would'nt come. I thought you would 
surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us 
yesterday." 

" Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and 
I could'nt get to the depot ; so I ate it with cousin 
Maggie. But that is the way ; I come just when I 
am given up for good." 

Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, 
and Dorsie, with his motherless little Gracie and 
Arthur. After the first greeting was over, Aunt 
said : 

" What a blessing it is that Norval got well !" 

"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you 
mean?" 

"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?" 

" No, not a word." 

" Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he 
is able to be about now." 

"Oh! how thankful lam! What if Norval had 
died, and I away!" And then I told of the lady I 
had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps 
already dead, and how it had brought with such force 
the thought of what such word would be to me 
about Norval. How little we know what God in His 
great loving kindness is sparing us ! 

I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To 
be at " Uncle John's " was like being at home ; for 
12 



186 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

we had always lived in the same village and on ad- 
joining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the 
year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Ne- 
braska. But the saddest story of all was the death of 
Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and baby Ruth, with ma- 
laria fever. 

To tell you of this country, allow me to begin 
ith Blue Springs — a town just one mile east, on the 
line of the U. P. P. P., and on the banks of the Big 
Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great vol- 
ume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber 
— honey locust, elm, box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, 
hickory, and black walnut. The trees and bushes 
grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their 
branches in its waves of blue. This river rises in 
Hamilton county, Nebraska, and joins the Republican 
river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long.) 

I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's 
story as he gave it to us. He is a hale, hearty man 
of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just as genteel 
in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast 
among the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of 
among the early settlers of Nebraska, as well as with 
the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says: 

" In 1859 I w r as going to join Johnston's army in 
Utah, but I landed in this place with only fifty cents 
in my pocket, and went to work for J. H. Johnston, 
who had taken the first claim s when the county was 
first surveyed and organized. About the only set- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 187 

tiers here at that time were Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and 
Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek is 
named. The houses were built of unhewn logs. 

"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow 
that was coming among us, and sure enough she did 
come, and bought the first house that had been built 
in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and 
opened the first store. But Ave yet had to go to 
Brownville, 45 miles away, on the Missouri river for 
many things, as the ' rich widow's ' capital was only 
three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to 
pioneer settlers. Indeed, it was few groceries we 
used ; I have often made pies out of flour and water 
and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought 
them quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, 
which was ground in a sheet-iron mill that would 
hold about tsvo quarts, and which was nailed to a post 
for everybody to use. 

" Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July 
that year, and for two months before, we told every 
one that passed this way to come, and tell everybody 
else to come. And come they did — walking, riding 
in ox wagons, and any way at all — until in all there 
was 150 of us. The ladies in sunbonnets and very 
plain dresses; there was one silk dress in the crowd, 
and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought 
all the dishes they had along, and we had quite a 
dinner on fried fish and corn dodgers. For three 
days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn. 



188 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 
80 pounds. We sent to Brownville, and bought a 
fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers with. A Mr. 
Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we 
sang some war songs, and ended with a dance that 
lasted until broad daylight. Very little whiskey was 
used, and there was no disturbance of any kind. So 
our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. 
I worked all summer for fifty cents per day, and took 
my pay in corn which the widow bought at 30 cents 
per bushel. I was a widower, and — well, that corn 
money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. 
One year I sold 500 bushels of corn at a dollar per 
bushel to travelers and freighters, as this is near the 
old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 
160 acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and 
sold it in '72 for $2,000. It could not now be bought 
for $5,000. 

"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we 
all gathered together in our big house (the widow's 
and mine), and the twelve men of us prepared to give 
them battle ; but they were more anxious to give bat- 
tle to the Otoe Indians on the reservation. 

" The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always beg- 
ging for 'their poor pappoose.' My wife gave them 
leave to take some pumpkins out of the field, and the 
first thing we knew, they were hauling them away 
with their ponies. 

"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M. E. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 189 

minister from Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We 
received our mail once a week from Nebraska City, 
150 miles away. The postmaster received two dol- 
lars a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar 
box, and everybody went and got their own mail. It 
afterward was carried from Mission Creek, 12 miles 
away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday 
morning. The U. P. R. R. was built in '80. 

" My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Penn- 
sylvania, and surprised them with our genteel appear- 
ance. They thought, from the life we led, we would 
be little better than the savages. My brothers want- 
ed me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the 
city where I couldn't see farther than across the 
street, and I told them: 'You can run out to New- 
York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few 
hours, but how much of this great country do you 
see? No, I will go back to my home on the Blue.' 
1 am the only one of the old settlers left, and every- 
body calls me 'Pa]) Tyler.'" 

I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I 
might see what the Fourth of '83 would be in Blue 
Springs. It was ushered in with the boom of guns 
and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, 
there were about 4,000 gathered with the bright 
morning. Of course there were old ladies with bon- 
nets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not 
that lack of intelligence and refinement one might ex- 
pect to find in a country yet bo comparatively new. 



190 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

I thought, as I looked over the people, could our 
eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated 
man. I marked him — fifth drunken man I have 
seen since entering the state. The programme of the 
day was as follows : 

Song — The Bed, White, and Blue. 

Declakation of Independence — Recited by Minnie Mar- 
sham, a miss of twelve years. 
Song — Night Before the Battle. 

Toast — Our Schools. Responded to by J. C. Burch. 
Toast — Our Bailroads. Rev. J. M. Pryse. 
Music — By the band. 
Toast — Our Neighbors. Rev. E. H. Burringtom 

Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, " How, 
When, and Why," and with -the song, " The Flag 
Without a Stain," all adjourned for their dinners. 

Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, 
but I preferred to eat my dinner under the flag with 
a stain — a rebel flag of eleven stars and three stripes — 
a captured relic of the late war that hung at half 
mast. 

In afternoon they gathered again to listen to " Pap 
Tyler" and Pete Tom tell of the early days. But 
the usual 4th of July storm scattered the celebrators 
and spoiled the evening display of fire- works. 

Wymore 
Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue 
River. In was almost an undisturbed prairie until 
the B. & M. R. R. came this way in the spring of 



THKOUGH NEBKASKA. 191 

'81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out 
of the ground/' and became a railroad division town. 
The plot covers 640 acres, a part of which was Sam- 
uel Wyrnore's homestead, who settled here sixteen 
years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be 
needed. 

One can scarce think that where but two years ago 
a dozen little shanties held all the people of Wymore, 
now are so many neatly built homes and even elegant 
residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you what 
it now is would take too long. Three papers, three 
banks, a neat Congregational church; Methodists 
hold meetings in the opera hall, Presbyterians in the 
school-house; both expect to have churches of their 
own within a year; with all the business houses of a 
rising western town crowded in. A fine quarry of 
lime-stone just south on Indian Creek which has 
greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The 
heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are 
certainly a feature of beauty. The days were oppres- 
sively warm, but the nights cool and the evenings de- 
sightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon 
almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the 
painter's brush, or the writer's pen to portray. Truly 
"sunset is the soul of the day." 

It is thought that in the near future Wymore and 
Blue Springs will shake hands across Bill creek and 
be one city. Success to the shake. 

The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south- 



192 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

east of Wymore. It is a tract of land that was given 
to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but one-half was sold 
five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and 
south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, 
and extends two miles into Kansas. I will quote a 
few notes I took on a trip over it with Uncle John 
Annie, and Mary. 

Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue 
Springs, crossed the Blue on the bridge above the mill 
where the river is 150 feet wide, went six miles and 
crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed 
another creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town 
with a population of 800, on the B. & M. R. R., od, on, 
we went, going north, east, south, and west, and cut- 
ting across, and down by the school building of the 
agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite 
an orchard at the rear. Ate our lunch in the house 
that the agent had occupied. 

A new town is located at the U. P. R. R. depot, 
yet called "the Agency." It numbers twelve houses 
and all built since the lands were sold the 30th of 
last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I 
never had a "hankering" for dead Indians, so did 
not dig any up, as so many do. I felt real sorry that 
the poor Indian's last resting place was so desecrated. 
The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sit- 
ting posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their 
pony is killed and the head placed at the head of the 
grave and the tail tied to a pole and hoisted at the 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 193 

foot; but the women and children are buried with 
little ceremony, and no pony given them upon which 
to ride to the " happy" hunting-ground." 

This tribe of Indians were among the best, but- 
warring with other tribes decreased their number until 
but 400 were left to take up a new home in the Indian 
Territory. 

The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet 
or more deep; in places the grass was over a foot 
high. From Uncle's farm we could see Mission and 
Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. 
The sun was very warm, but with a covered carriage, 
and fanned with Nebraska breezes we were able to 
travel all the day. Did not reach home until the 
stars were shining. 

For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wis- 
est man I ever saw working corn. I am sorry I can- 
not tell just how his tent was attached to his cultiva- 
tor, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, 
and the ends hanging over the sides several inches 
which acted as fans; minus a hat he was taking the 
weather cool. Now I believe in taking these days 
when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't 
take them cool, take them as eon] as you can any way. 
My thermometer did not do so, but left in the sun it 
ran as high as it could and then boiled over and 
broke the bulb. 

There were frequent showers and one or two storms, 
and though they came in the night, I was up and as 



194 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

near ready, as I could get, for a cyclone. Aunt Jane 
wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or 
two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with 
dust, and shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, 
wiping her eyes on the corner of her apron, while she 
throws an old shoe after me, and with Grade and 
Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 
4:45 p.m. train, July 5th. 

I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, 
and had the rest all crying and feeling bad, so I made 
up my mind never to cry again at such a time if it 
was possible. I did not know that I would ever see 
these dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, 
and left them as though I would soon be back ; and 
now I am going farther from home and friends. 

Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain al- 
ready in the sheaf, and nicely growing corn waving 
in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and now 
bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great 
grassy meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as 
it may convey a better idea of the country, I will 
give my notes just as I took them as I rode along : 

ODELL, 

A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three 
great long corn cribs, yet well filled. About the 
only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent the 
snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall 
as seen on the Reservation. Here are nicely built 
homes, and the beginners' cabins hiding in the cosy 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 195 

places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's 
planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, 
and so covered with bushes and trees that one has to 
look quick and close to see the dark muddy water 
that covers the bottom. 

DILLER, 

A small town, but I know the " Fourth " was here 
by the bowery or dancing platforms, and the flags 
that still wave. Great fields of corn and grassy 
stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe 
the soil is running out, only about a foot until it 
changes to a clay. Few homes. 



INDIAN CREEK. 

Conductor watching to show me the noted " Wild 
Bill's" cabin, and now just through the cut he points 
to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill killed four men 
out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they 
were in the wrong and he in the right, he received 
much praise, for thus ridding the world of worse 
than useless men, and so nobly defending govern- 
ment property, which they wanted to take out of his 
hands. There is the crjeek running close to the 
cabin, and up the hill from the stream is the road 
that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer used by 
gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild 
Indians, and emigrants that then went guarded by 
sold iers from Fort Kea rn ey . T 1 1 e st rea m is so t h ickly 
wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place, and 



196 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

was one of the dangerous passes in the road ; but here 
we are at 

ENDICOTT, 

A town some larger than those we have passed. 
Is situated near the centre of the southern part of 
Jefferson county. Now we are passing through 
a very tine country with winding streams. I stand at 
the rear door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell 
all. 

REYNOLDS, 

A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose 
creek to the right. Good homes and also dug-outs. 
Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so good as 
some I have seen. The little houses cling close to 
the hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of 
trees. "Wild roses in bloom, corn and oats getting 
smaller again; wonder if the country is running out? 
Here is a field smothered with sunflowers : wonder 
why Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? 
Rose creek has crossed to the left; what a wilderness 
of small trees and bushes follow its course! I do de- 
clare ! here's a real rail fence ! but not a staken- 
rider fence. Would have told you more about it, 
but was past it so soon. Rather poor looking rye 
and oats. Few fields enclosed with ba.rb-wire. 
Plenty of cattle grazing. 

HUBBELL. 

Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong 
enough for mill power; only one mile north of Kan- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 197 

sas. Train stops here for supper, bat I shall wait 
and take mine with friends in Hard v. Hubbell is in 
Thayer county, which was organized in 1856. Town 
platted in '80, on the farm of Hubbell Johnston; has 
a population of 450. A good school house. I have 
since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty 
to seventy-five, wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty 
to seventy-five bushels per acre in this neighborhood. 
I walked up main street, with pencil and book in 
hand, and was referred to for infor- 
mation, who asked — 

" Are you writing for the Inter Ocean f " 

" No, I am not writing for any company," I re- 
plied. 

"I received a letter from the publishers a few days 
ago, saying that a lady would be here, writing up the 
Republican Valley for their publication." 

I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the 
same work. 

We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sun- 
set reach Hardy, Nuckolls county. I had written 
to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet " an old 
schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and 
ministerial looking since we had last met, that I did 
not recognize him, and he allowed me to pass him 
while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon 
I heard some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," 
and grasping my hand, gives me a hearty greeting. 
Then he led me to his neat little home just beyond 



8 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

the Lutheran church, quite. a nicely finished building 
that points its spire heavenward through his labors. 

The evening and much of the night is passed be- 
fore I have answered all the questions, and told all 
about his brothers and sisters and the friends of our 
native village. The next day he took his wife and 
three little ones and myself on a long drive into Kan- 
sas to show me the beauties of the " Garden of the 
West." 

The Eepublican river leaves Nebraska a little 
west of Hardy, and we cross it a mile south. The 
water of the river is clear and sparkling, and has 
a rapid flow. Then over what is called " first bot- 
tom" land, with tall, waving grass, and brightened 
with clusters of flowers. The prettiest is the buffalo 
moss, a bright red flower, so like our portulacca 
that one would take its clusters for beds of that 
flower. While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of 
tiny, downy balls, of a faint pink, with a delicate 
fragrance like that of the sweet brier. They grow 
on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; 
leaves sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for 
pressing. 

Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! 
Corn ! It makes me tired to think of little girls drop- 
ping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these great 
fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is 
scarcely a weed to be seen. Some are working their 
corn for the last time. It is almost ready to hang 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 199 

its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make one 
great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cul- 
tures of black walnut, maple, box elder, and cotton- 
wood. Stopped for dinner with Mrs. Stover, one of 
Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some 
years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. 
I was shown their milk house, with a stream of wa- 
ter flowing through it, pumped by a wind-mill. "Well, 
I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs 
when one can have such conveniences as this, and 
have flowing water in any direction. 

I was thankful to my friends for the view of the 
land of "smoky waters," bur it seemed a necessity 
that I close my visit with them and go on to Red 
Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged 
my stay with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me 
good-bye: "You are the first one who lias visited us 
from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have 
you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great 
pleasure to us." I was almost yielding to their en- 
treaties but my plans were laid, and I must go, and 
sunset saw me off. 

All the country seen before dark was very pretty. 

Passing over a bridge I was told: "This is Dry 

Creek." Sure enough — sandy bed and banks, trees, 

"bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it 

is there only in wet weather. 

I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks 
that rise five miles north-west of Hardy, and flow 



200 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

in parallel lines with each other for several miles, when 
they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean passage, 
and are not seen again until they flow out on the 
north banks of the Republican. 

So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost 
Creek, you will know what they are. 

SUPERIOR 

Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on 
a plateau. The Republican river is bridged here, 
and a large mill built. I did not catch the name as the 
brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I thought 
was only a mere school boy, who answered : " I did not 
understand, but will learn/' Coming back, he in- 
forms me with much emphasis that it is Superior, and 
straightway goes off. enlarging on the beauties and ex- 
cellences of the country, and of the fossil remains he 
has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: 
"Oh! Ijust love to go fossiling! Don't you love to 
go fossiling, Miss?" 

"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and 
had a mind to add, "I know it is just too lovely for 
anything." 

It was not necessary for him to say he was from 
the east, we eastern people soon tell where we are 
from if we talk at all, and if we do not tell it in words 
our manners an(J tones do. New Englanders, New 
Yorkers, and Pennamites all have their own way of 
saying and doing things. I went to the "Valley 
House" for the night and took the early train next 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 201 

morning for McCook which is in about the same 
longitude as Valentine and North Platte, and thus I 
would go about the same distance west on all of the 
three railroads. 

I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on 
the engine. I have always greatly admired and won- 
dered at the workings of a locomotive, and can readily 
understand how an engineer can learn to love his en- 
gine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. 
The great throbbing heart of the Centennial — the Cor- 
liss engine, excited my admiration more than all the 
rest of Machinery Hall ; and next to the Corliss comes 
the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in 
Wymore with my cousins and Avas told all about the 
engines, the air-brakes, and all that, but, oh, dear! I 
didn't know anything after all. We planned to 
have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. 
And when at Cambridge the conductor came in haste 
and asked me if I would like a ride on the engine, I 
followed without a thought, only that my long wished 
for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupy- 
ing the fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. 
I looked out of the window and saw the conductor 
quietly telling the fireman something that amused 
them both, and I at once knew they meant to give 
me "a mile a minute" ride. AVell I felt provoked 
and ashamed that I had allowed my impulsiveness 
to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I 
was there and it was too late to turn back, so to mas- 
13 



/ 

202 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

ter the situation I appeared quite unconcerned, and 
only asked how far it was to Indianola. 

" Fourteen miles," was the reply. 

Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and 
shoveled in coal, and the engineer never took his eyes 
off the track which was as straight as a bee-line before 
us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and 
let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as 
they flew by the w T rong way. After 'all it was a 
grand ride, only I felt out of place. When nearing 
Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when 
they had stopped I asked what time they had made, 
and was answered, eighteen minutes. The conductor 
came immediately to help me from the cab and as he 
did so, asked : 

"Well, did they go pretty fast?" 

"I don't know, did they?" I replied. 

I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and 
soon we were at McCook. 

After the train had gone some time I missed a 
wrap I had left on the seat, and hastily had a tele- 
gram sent after it. After lunching at the railroad 
eating house, I set about gathering information about 
the little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 
1882, and now has a population of 900. It is 255 
miles east of Denver, on the north banks of the Re- 
publican river, on a gradually rising slope, while 
south of the river it is bluify. It is a division station 
and is nicely built up with very tastily arranged cot- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 203 

tages. Only for the newness of the place I could 
have fancied I was walking up Congress street in 
Bradford Pennsylvania. Everything has air of 
freshness and brightness. The first house was built 
in June, '82. 

I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed 
in the new towns of the west. Surely the east is be- 
coming old and falling behind. It is seldom a house 
is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the 
appearance of the town and country, as those who can 
afford a frame house, build oue that will look well at 
a distance. 

Pipes are now being laid for water works. The 
water is to be carried from thcuriver to a reservoir 
capable of holding 40,000 gallons and located on the 
hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Com- 
pany at a cost of §36,000. It has a daily and week Iy 
paper, The McCook Tribune, first issued in June, '82. 
The printing office was then in a sod house near the 
river, then called Fairview postomce, near which, 
about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M. 
R. R. was completed through to Colorado winter of 
'82. Good building stone can be obtained from 
Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its 
brick kiln as has almost all the towns along the way. 
Good clay is easily obtained, and brick is cheaper 
than in the east. 

From a copy of the Daily Tribune, I read a long 
list of business firms and professional cards, and fin- 
ished with, u no saloons." 



204 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

The Congregational ists have a fine church build- 
ing. The Catholics worship in the Churchill House, 
but all other denominations are given the use of the 
Congregrtional church until they can build. I called 
upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational 
church. He was from home, but I was kindly in- 
vited by his mother, who was just from the east, to 
rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of 
the east that are furnished with homes such as was this 
minister of McCook. I was then directed to Mrs. C. 
C. Clark, who is superintendent of the Sunday school, 
and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. 
She told of their Sabbath school, and of the good at- 
tendance, and how the ladies had bought the church 
Tgan, and of the society in general. 
u You would be surprised to know the refinement 
and culture to be found in these newly built western 
town. J If you will remain with us a few days, I will 
take you out into the country to see how nicely peo- 
ple can and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. 
And we will also go on an engine into Colorado. It is 
too bad to come so near and go back without seeing 
that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine 
on this road, and consider it a great treat; so it was 
only through kindness that you were invited into the 
cab, as you had asked the conductor to point out all 
that was of interest, along the way. 

The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the 
growing of the crops, with only another good rain. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 205 

Almost everyone has bought or taken claims. One 
engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, 
and bought 80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his 
wife has gone to live on the homestead, while he con- 
tinues on the road until they have money enough to 
go into stock-raising. 

This valley does not show any sand to speak of 
until in the western part of Hitchcock county. 

Following the winding course of the Republican 
river, through the eight counties of Nebraska through 
which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The 40th 
north latitude, is the south boundry line-of Nebraska. 
As the Republican river flows through the southern 
tier of counties, it is easy to locate its latitude. It 
has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well sustained by in- 
numerable creeks on the north, and many from the 
south. These streams are more or less wooded with 
ash, elm, and cottonwood, and each have their cosy 
valley. It certainly will be a thickly populated 
stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crop- of 
limestone, the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock 
raising facilities, plenty of water and winter graz- 
ing, and the mill poAver of the river cannot and will 
not be overlooked. But hark ! the train is coming. 
and I must go. 

A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, return- 
ing from Colorado, are the only passengers in this 
coach. The seats are covered with sand, and window 
sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river 



206 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

side and prepare to write. Must tell you first that 
my wrap was handed me by the porter, so if I was 
not in Colorado, it was. 

/ The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, 
that look like pond lillies on a sea of green. The 
buffalo grass is so short that it does not hide the tin- 
iest flower!} Now we are alongside the river'; sand- 
bars in all shapes and little islands of green — there it 
winds to the south and is lost to sight — herds of cat- 
tle — corn field — river again with willow fringed 
bank-: — cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quick- 
sand, or they would not* be there long — river gone 
again — tall willow grove — wire fencing — creek I sup- 
pose, but it is only a brook in width. Now a broad, 
beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five 
miles long, and cattle grazing in it — all fenced in un- 
til we reach 

INDIANOIiA, 

one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. 
The town-site was surveyed in 1873, and is now 
the county seat. Of course its growth was slow until 
the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 
400 inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum 
cane, and get your ' lasses' from the big sorghum 
mill." See a church steeple, court house, and school 
house — great herd of cattle — wilderness of sunflowers 
turning their bright faces to the sun — now nothing 
but grass — corral made of logs — corn and potatoes — 
out of the old sod into the nice new frame — river beau- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 207 

tifully wooded — valley about four miles wide from 
bluff to bluff — dog town, but don't seem to be any 
doggies at home — board fence. 

CAMBRIDGE. 

Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; pop- 
ulation 500; a flouring mill; in Furnas county now. 
The flowers that I see are the prairie rose shaded 
from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, 
purple shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers. 

Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo 
burs, and buffalo wallows. Country looking fine. 
Grain good. 

ARAPAHOE. 

Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. 
Valley broad, and bluffs a gradual rise to the table- 
lands; fields of grain and corn on their sloping side. 
This young city is situated on the most northern 
point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, 
and is only forty miles from Plum creek on the Platte 
river, and many from that neighborhood come with 
their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are two 
flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas 
county, was platted in 1871. River well timbered; 
corn and oats good; grain in sheaf; stumps, stumps, 
bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them! did'nt 
think any one could live in that house, but people 
can live in very open houses here; stakenridered 
fence, sod house, here is a stream no wider than 



208 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow 
on its banks. River close; trees — there, it and the 
trees are both gone south. Here are two harvesters 
at work, reaping and binding the golden grain. 

OXFORD. 

Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are 
to the north ; town located by the Lincoln land com- 
pany; population about 400; a Baptist church; good 
stone for building near; damming the river for mills 
and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, 
sheep, and cattle, cattle — What has cattle? Cat- 
tle has what all things has out west. Guess what ! 
why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan 
county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, 
and Melrose, small towns, but will not be so long. 

Here we are at 

ORLEANS. 

A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little 
distance to the north ; excuse, me, please, until I brush 
the dust from the seat before me for an old lady that 
has just entered the car; I am glad to have her com- 
pany. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright 
little stream called Elm creek that winds around at 
the foot of the bluff upon which the town is built. 
I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the town 
it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, 
and for a time was the county seat, and built a 
good court-house, but their right was disputed, and 



THKOTJGH NEBRASKA. 209 

the coanty seat was carried to Alma, six miles east. 
The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time 
it had 400 of a population. It has advanced even 
through the loss of the county seat. An M. E. Col- 
lege, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its inter- 
ests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good 
grazing land. Cutting grain with oxen; a large field 
of barley; good bottom land; large herds and little 
homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old sod's 
tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt. 

ALMA. 

Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is 
buiit upon the table-land so out of sight Icannot see 
much of it. But this is the county seat before spok- 
en of, and I am told is a live town. 

That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her 
.homestead near Orleans for $800, and now she is going 
to visit and live on the interest of her money. Came 
from New York ten years ago with her fatherless 
children. The two eastern men and myself were 
the only passengers in this car, so I just wrote and 
hummed away until I drove the men away to the 
end of the car where they could hear each other talk- 
ing. I am so glad the old lady will talk. 

REPUBLICAN CITY. 

Small, but pretty town with good surrounding 
country. Population 400. Why, there's a wind- 
mill ! Water must be easily obtained or they would 
be more plenty. 



210 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

XAPONEE. 

Small town. JSo stop here. Widespread valley; 
corn in tassel ; grain in sheaf; wheat splendid. One 
flour mill and a creamery. 

Bloomixgton — the "Highland City" — the coun- 
ty seat of Franklin county, and is a town like 
all the other towns along this beautiful valley, nicely 
located, and built up with beautiful homes and pub- 
lic buildings, and besides having large brick M. E. 
and Presbyterian churches, a large Xormal School 
building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large cream- 
ery, and the U. S. land office. I am told that 
the Indians are excellent judges of land and are 
very loth to leave a good stretch of country, although 
they do not make much use of the rich soil. The 
Pawnees were the original land-holders of the Re- 
publican valley^and I do not wonder that they held 
so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a 
grand possession for their white brothers. 

I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will 
just write half and use a dash for the rest of the 
words cor — , pota — , bush — , tre — , riv — . Wish I 
could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady 
says "that wild sage is good to break up the ague," 
and I have been told it is a good preventive for ma- 
laria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it 
came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no 
tre — or bus — ; well, I am tired saying that; going 
to say something else. Sensitive roses, yellow flow- 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 211 

ers, that's much better than to be talking about the 
river all the time. But here it is again; the most 
fickle stream I have ever seen ! You think you will 
have bright waters to look upon for awhile, and just 
then you haven't. 

But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we 
are at Franklin, a real good solid town. First house 
built July, 1879. I never can guess how many peo- 
ple live in a town by looking at it from a car, win- 
dow. How do I know how many there are at work 
in the creamery, flouring mill, and woolen factory? 
And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin 
Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the 
Republican Valley Congregational Association at a 
cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec. 6, 1881. 
The present worth of the institution is §12,000, and 
they propose to make that sum §50,000. One hun- 
dred and seven students have been enrolled during 
the present term. And how many little boys and 
girls in the common school building? or how many 
are in their nicely painted homes, and those log 
houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in the side of 
the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the 
ground? It takes all kinds of people to make a 
world, and all kinds of houses to make a city. 
Country good. / Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, 
millet, broom cx)rn, and all sich — good all the way 
along this vallefy. 



'212 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

RIVERTON. 

A small town situated right in the valley. Was 
almost entirely laid in ashes in 1882, but Phoenix- 
like is rising again. Am told the B. & M. Co. have 
47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at 
$3.50 to §10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per 
cent interest. Great fields of pasture and grain; 
wild hay lands; alongside the river now; there, it is 
gone to run under that bridge away over near the 
foot of the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would 
you believe it ! here's the Republican river. Haven't 
seen it for a couple of minutes. But it brings trees 
and bushes with it, and an island. But now around 
the bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told 
you the "here she comes" and "there she goes" of 
the river to show you its winding course. One min- 
ute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, 
and then, as though ashamed of the "hug," and 
thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a direct south- 
western course for the south bluffs, and hug them 
awhile. Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old 
lady is tired and has stopped talking, and I will fol- 
low her example. Tired? Yes, indeed! Have 
been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, 
now 119 miles away, and am right glad to hear the 
conductor call 

red cloud! 

Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early 
settlers of Red Cloud, I made haste to call upon him 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 213 

before it grew dark, for the sunbeams were already 
aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. 
As I stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley 
House" there sat a toad; first western toad I had 
seen, and it looked so like the toadies that hop over 
our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it 
with my foot. But it hopped away from me and left 
me to think of home. The new moon of May had 
hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the 
Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, 
and now, looking up from the Republican valley, the 
new July moon smiled upon me in a rather reprov- 
ing way for being yet further from home than when 
it last came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I 
turned my earnest wishes into a silent prayer: 

"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has 
again run its course ! " 

I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of 
his cosy cottage, enjoying the beautiful evening. He 
received me kindly, and invited me into the parlor, 
where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleas- 
ant lady, and soon I was listening to the following 
story : 

"I was one of the first men in Webster county; 
came with two brothers, and several others, and took 
for my soldier's claim the land upon which much of 
Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There 
were no other settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and 
but two there. In August several settlers came with 



214 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

their families, and this neighborhood was frequently 
visited by the Indians, who 'were then killing the 
white hunters for taking their game, and a couple 
had been killed near here. The people stockaded 
this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall 
of logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, 
they lived the first winter, but I stayed in my dug- 
out home, which you may have noticed in the side of 
the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose 
this spot then for my future home. I have been in 
many different states, but was never so well satisfied 
with any place as I was with this spot on the llepub- 
lican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo 
grass, and as buffalo were very plenty, we did not 
want for meat. There were also plenty of elk, ante- 
lope, and deer. 

"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. 
The commissioners met in my dug-out. At the first 
election there were but forty-five votes polled. First 
winter there were religious services held, and in the 
summer of 7 71, we had school. Our mail was carried 
from Hebron, Thayer county, fifty miles east. The 
town site was platted in October, '72, and we named 
it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe." 

The governor looked quite in place in his elegant 
home, but as he told of the early days, it was hard 
to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I could not 
help asking him how he got about in his little home, 
for he is a large man. He laughingly told how he 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 215 

had lived, his dried buffalo meat hung to the ceiling, 
and added : 

"I spent many a happy day there." 

Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Ne- 
braska in 1874-6, serving well and with much honor 
his two terms. This is an instance of out of a dug- 
out into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness 
cannot be hidden even by the most humble abode. 

The home mother earth affords her children of Ne- 
braska is much the same as the homes the great for- 
ests of the east gave to our forefathers, and have given 
shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's 
children. 

When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the gov- 
ernor said : 

" We would like to have you remain with us to- 
night, if you will," and as .Mrs. Garber added her in- 
vitation, I readily accepted their kindness, for it was 
not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weari- 
ness in the pleasure of the evening, hearing the gov- 
ernor tell of pioneer days and doings, and Mrs. G. 
of California's clime and scenery — her native state. 

The morning was bright and refreshing, and we 
spent its hours seeing the surrounding beauties of 
their home. 

" Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I 
planted but eight years ago — fine, large trees they are 
now; and this clover and timothy; some think we 
cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," 
while Mrs. G. says: 



216 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 



, 



" There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming 
along the path, and if I can find it will pluck it for 
you," and together we go searching in the dewy 
grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his 
horse and phaeton to take me to the depot. 

Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet 
most unassuming and social in her manners. Before 
I left, they gave me a large photograph of their 
home. As the Governor drove me around to see 
more of Red Cloud beiore taking me to the depot, he 
took me by his 14x16 hillside home, remarking as he 
pointed it out: 

"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might 
have yet made a good home for some one," then by 
the first frame house built in Red Cloud, which he 
erected for a store room, where he traded with the 
Indians for their furs. He hauled the lumber for 
this house from Grand Island, over sixty miles of 
trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100 
miles away, for their lumber, and where they then 
got most of their groceries. 

As we drove through the broad streets, and looked 
on Red Cloud from centre to suburb, I did not 
wonder at the touch of pride with which Governor 
Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land 
had made that he paid for in years of service to his 
country. 

When the B. & M. R. R. reached Red Cloud in 
r 79, it was a town of 450 inhabitants; now it num. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 217 

bers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the B. & 
M. from Wyrnore, and also from Omaha; is the 
county seat of Webster county, and surrounded by a 
rich country — need I add more? 

AMBOY. 

A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little 
stream, with bushes; and now we are crossing Dry 
Creek ; corn looks short. 

cowles. . 

Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of 
draws that have to be bridged ; shan't write much to- 
day for you know it is Sunday, and I feel kind of 
wicked; wonder what will happen to me for travel- 
ing to-day; am listening to those travelers from the 
east tell to another how badly disappointed they were 
in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic thinks it 
strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at 
night will cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud 
than any place. Other one says he would'nt take 
$1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are 
more than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain 
to the right, with homes and groves of trees. 

BLUE HILL. 

A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of 
country. O, rose, that blooms and wastes thy fra- 
grance on this wide spread plain, what is thy life? 
To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you 
travelers with one glance, and sweeten one breath of 
14 



218 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

air; mayhap to be seen by only one out of the many 
that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and smiles 
upon me even here. 

Bloom, little flower, all the way along, 

Sing to us travelers your own quiet song, 

Speak to us softly, gently, and low, 

Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know? 

Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick. 

This country is good all the way along and I do 
not need to repeat it so often. Nicely improved 
farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of trees. 
I see one man at work with his harvester; the only 
desecrator of the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may 
be a Seventh day Baptist. 

AYR 

Was but a small town, so we go on to Hastings, a 
town of over 5,000 inhabitants, and the county seat 
of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles west from 
Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. 
The B. & M. R. R. was built through Hastings in 
the spring of 18.72, but it was not a station until the 
St. Joe and Denver City R. R. (now the St. Joe & 
Western Division of the U. P. R. R.) was extended 
to this point in the following autumn, and a town was 
platted on the homestead of W. Mick! in, and named 
in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors of 
the St. Jo. & D. C. R. R. A post-office was estab- 
lished the same year, the postmaster recei ving a salary 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 219 

of one dollar per month. Now, the salaiy is $2,100 
per annum, and is the third post-office in the state for 
business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is 
nicely built up with good houses, although it has suf- 
ered badly from fires. I notice a good many wind- 
mills, so I presume water runs deep here. The sur- 
rounding country is rich farming land, all crops 
looking good. 

Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, 
and Dorchester, are all towns worthy of note, but it is 
the same old story about them all. I notice the 
churches are well attended. 

A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed 
signs of fight and, as usual, I beat a retreat to the 
rear of the car, but did not better my position by get- 
ting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken 
stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from 
Denver in that condition, so I will give Colorado the 
honor (?) of the sixth count. I cannot but compare 
the two young men : The one, I am told, was a good 
young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. 
If it was he that was intoxicated, I would not won- 
der at it. I never could understand how any one in 
their right mind could deliberately drag themselves 
down to such a depth, and present such a picture of 
sin and shame to the world as this poor besotted one 
does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he 
passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity 
come from all for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, 



220 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Which of the two is the most insane ? But I don't 
intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is Sunday. 

CRETE, 

Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line 
the Big Blue river. The valley of the Blue must be 
very fertile, as every plant, shrub, and tree shows a 
very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy retreat. 
The Congregational church of the state has made it a 
cantre of its work. Here are located Doane College 
and the permanent grounds of the N. S. S. A. A. 

LINCOLN. 

Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. 
I asked a lady to watch my baggage for me, while I 
hastened to the post-office, and when I returned the 
train was gone and the depot closed. I stood look- 
ing through the window at my baggage inside, and 
turning my mind upside-down, and wrongside out, 
and when it was sort of crosswise and I didn't know 
just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if 
he had anything to do with the depot. " No. I am 
a stranger here, and am only waiting to see the ticket 
agent." After explaining matters to him I asked him 
to " please speak to the ticket agent about that bag- 
gage for me," which he readily promised to do, and I 
started to walk \o my friends, expecting to meet them 
on the way. After going some distance I thought I 
had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, 
and had a mind to turn back, but the sun was melt- 



THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 221 

ing hot, and I kept right on. After I had gone over 
a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one of my 
friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, 
and gave them another surprise, for they thought I 
had made a mistake in the date, as they were quite 
sure no train was run on that road on Sunday. 

Monday. Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but 
returned without it, and with a countenance too sober 
for joking said : "Well, your baggage is not to be 
found, and no one seems to know anything about it." 

"Oh! Pet," "Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did 
not go to meet you, for this would not have happened. 
What did you leave?" " Everything I had." " Your 
silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; 
money would replace it, but no amount could give 
me back my autograph album and button string 
which is filled and gathered from so many that I will 
never again see ; and all my writings, so much that I 
could never replace. No, I must not lose it ! " And 
then I stole away and went to Him whom I knew 
could help me. Some may not, but (I have faith 
that help is given us for the minor as well as the 
great things of life, and as I prayed this lesson came 
to me — How alarmed I am over the loss of a little 
worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of 
writing, when so much of the heavenly possession is 
lost through carelessness, and each day is a page writ- 
ten in my life's history that will not be read and 
judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge 



22'2 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

of all things. And, too, it is manuscript that cannot 
be altered or rewritten. 

I would not allow myself to think that my bag- 
gage was gone for good, nor would I shed one tear 
until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would just take 
a good cry over it, and — but won't I hug my dusty 
satchels if I only get hold of them again, and never, 
never be so careless again. I supposed the stranger 
whom^ I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for 
me had improved the opportunity I gave him to se- 
cure it for his own. 

So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, 
as Cousin Maggie took me to the city in the afternoon. 
The day w T as away up among the nineties, and we 
could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled 
so slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even 
push to make time. But I kept quiet and didn't 
even say " Get up, Nellie ! " I suppose a mile a 
minute would have been slow to me then. When at 
last I reached the depot my first thought was to go 
right to Mr. Eandall with my trouble, but was told 
he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the 
faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to 
find him, I turned to look at the sacred spot where I 
had last seen may baggage, little dreaming that I 
would find it, but there it all was, even my fan. " Oh 
dear, I am so glad ! " and I fussed away, talking to 
my satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see 
them, and was about to give them the promised 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 223 

'' great big hug," when I found I was attracting at- 
tention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to 
please watch my baggage for a few moments. How 
soon we forget our good promises to do better. — I 
hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without 
a thought of going away. I first told him how much 
I was pleased with the Republican valley, and then 
about my baggage. 

" Why, child ! did you go away and leave it here ?'> 

u Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of 
a real dressy old lady, and must go and see to 
it." 

When I reached the waiting room the old lady and 
baggage were both gone. Turning to my cousin, who 
had just entered, I asked : 

"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that 
baggage?" 

" Nothing; I did not know you had found it." 

Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said : 

"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage 
went to." 

" The conductor carried it away." 

"Where did he go to?" 

" I don't know, Miss." 

Dear me ; helped the old lady aboard with my bag- 
gage, I thought. 

"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" 
asked Mr. Randall, who had followed me. " What's 
gone ? " 



224 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

"Why, my baggage; it's gone again." 
"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and per- 
haps we may find it in here." And we entered the 
baggage room just in time to save Gov. Garber's 
house from blowing away (the picture), but found the 
rest all carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found ; 
twice sad and twice glad, and a good lesson learned. 

The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first 
began work at Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, 
in 1869, and reached Lincoln July 20, 1870. From 
.Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But 
this table will give a better idea of the great net- 
work of railroads under the B. & M. Co.'s control. 
The several divisions and their mileage are as follows : 

Pacific Junction to Kearney 196 

Omaha line 17 

Nebraska City to Central City ....150 

Nebraska City to Beatrice 92 

Atchison to Columbus 221 

Crete to Red Cloud .....150 

Table Rock to Wymore... 38 

Hastings to Culbertson 171 

Denver Extension 244 

Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77. 

Chester to Hebron 12 

DeWittto West Line 25 

Odell to Washington, Kan 26 

Nemaha to Salem 18 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 225 

The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, be- 
ing a part of the C. B. & Q. system, forms in con- 
nection with the latter road the famous " Burlington 
Route," known as the shortest and quickest line be- 
tween Chicago and Denver, and being the only line 
under one management, tedious and unnecessary de- 
lays and transfers at the Missouri river are entirely 
avoided. 

P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly 
spoken of, stands at the head of the B. & M. R. R. 
as its worthy General Passenger Agent, while R. R. 
Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & 
M. R. R. Co., of whom I have before spoken, will 
kindly and most honestly direct all who come to hi m 
seeking homes in the South Platte country. His 
thorough knowledge of the western country and 
western life, having spent most of his years on the 
frontier, particularly qualifies him for this office. 

MILFORD. 

" The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its 
beautiful " Big Blue" river, which affords good boat- 
ing and bathing facilities, its wealth of thick groves 
of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips 
and sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. 
As before, Mr. Randall had prepared my way, and 
a carriage awaited me at the depot. I was conveyed 
to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. 
.Mrs. Culver is a daughter of Mil ford's pioneer, Mr. 
J. L. Davison, who located at M. in 1864, and built 



226 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

the first house. He built a mill in '66, aud from the 
mill, aud the fording of the river at this point by the 
Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the 
name for the town that afterward grew up about him. 
Through the kindness of the Davison family our 
stay at Milford was made very pleasant. Biding out 
in the evening to see the rich farming land of the 
valley, and in the morning a row on the river and 
ramble through the groves that have been a resting- 
place to so many weary travelers and a pleasure 
ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is 
the common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. 
It is twenty miles due west of the capital, on the B. 
& M. E. E., which was built in 1880. Mr. Davison 
told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near 
where is now the city of Lincoln, but was then only 
wild, unbroken prairies. Finding the "Big Blue" 
was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes and 
drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. 
He first built a log house, and soon a frame, hauling 
his lumber from Plattsmouth. A saw-mill was soon 
built *m the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at 
hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built 
in '66, and to his flouring-mill came grain for a hun- 
dred miles away, as there was none other nearer than 
Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of 
the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were 
readily sold. Mrs. Culver told of selling thirty-five 
dollars' worth of vegetables from her little garden 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 227 

patch in one week, adding: "We children were com- 
peting to see who could make the most from our gar- 
den that week, and I came out only a few dollars 
ahead of the rest." 

Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, 
and armed with a broom, she had defended a neigh- 
bor's daughter from being carried away captive by 
a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering 
days was very interesting, but space will not allow 
me to repeat it. 

In the morning I was taken through three very 
pretty groves. One lies high on a bluff, and is indeed 
a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then winding 
down canyon Seata, little canyon, we crossed the River 
to the Harbor, an island which is covered with large 
cottonwood, elm, hickory, and ash, and woven among 
the branches are many grapevines — one we measured 
being sixteen inches in circumference — while a cot- 
tonwood measured eighteen feet in circumference. 
Surely it has been a harbor where many weary ones 
have cast anchor for a rest. I Another grove, the Re- 
treat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, 
and we found its shade a very pleasant retreat on that 
bright sunny morning.) But pleasanter still was the 
row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling 
Springs." 

Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks 
over which this spring flows. All I can tell you is, 
it looks like a great mass of dark clay into which 



228 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all 
sizes, but which had decayed aud left only their im- 
pression on the hardened rock. 

The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom 
which makes it fine for bathing in, and the depth and 
volume of water is sufficient for the running of small 
steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's 
house in '69. The first church was erected by the 
Congregational society in '69. First newspaper was 
established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and gained a state 
reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley Re- 
cord" Eev. H. A. French began the publication 
of the " Congregational News" in '78. 

The " Milford Ozone " is the leading organ of the 
day, so named for the health-giving atmosphere that 
the Milfordites enjoy. 

A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison 
acting as postmaster. Mail was received once a week 
from Nebraska City, via Camden. The mail was 
distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J. H. 
Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern 
post-office was established. 

The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is 
now replaced by a large stone and brick building 
costing SI 00,000, and has a capacity of 300 barrels 
per day. The population of Milford is about 600. 
We cross the iron bridge that now spans the river to 
the east banks and take a view of the new town of 
East Milford laid out on an eighty acre plot that 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 229 

borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. 
It is a private enterprise to establish a larger town on 
this particularly favored spot, where those who wish 
may have a home within easy reach of the capital and 
yet have all the beauty -and advantage of a riverside 
home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select 
a residence lot and make my home on the beautiful 
Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet found in Nebraska. 



230 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

% 

CHAPTER V. 

NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL. 

Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte 
river. It is derived from the Indian ne (water) and 
bras (shallow), and means shallow water. In extent 
it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from 
north to south, and has an area of 75.995 square 
miles that lie between parallels 40° and 43° north 
latitude, and 18° and 27° west longitude. 

The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other In- 
dian tribes were the original land-holders, and buf- 
falo, elk, deer, and antelope the only herds that 
grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 
1854, "Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert 
worthy of some notice, and made it a territory, and 
in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for 
its motto "Equality before the Law" 

The governors of Nebraska territory were : 

Francis Burt, 1854. 

T. B. Cuming, 1854-5. 

Mark W. Izard, 1855-8. 

W. A. Richardson, 1858. 

J. S. Morton, 1858-9. 

Samuel W. Black, 1859-61. 

Alvin Saunders, 1861-6. 

David Butler, 1866-7. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 231 

Of the state- 
David Butler, 1867-71. 
William H. James, 1871-3. 
Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5. 
Silas Garber, 1875-9. 
Albinus Nance, 1879-83. 
James W. Dawes, 1883. 
Allow me to quote from the Centennial Gazetteer of 
United States : 

" Surface. — Nebraska is a part of that vast plain 
which extends along the eastern base of the Rocky 
mountains, and gently slopes down toward the Mis- 
souri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. 
There are no ranges or elevations in the state that 
might be termed mountains. The soil consists for 
the most part of a black and porous loam, which is 
slightly mixed with sand and lime. The stream- 
flow in deeply eroded valleys with broad alluvial 
flood grounds of the greatest fertility, which are gen- 
erally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, 
and other deciduous trees. The uplands are undu- 
lating prairie. Late surveys establish the fact that 
the aggregate area of the bottom lauds is from 13,- 
000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres. 

" The CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar 
to that of other states of the great Mississippi plains 
in the same latitude. The mean annual temperature 
varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57 c in the 
most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the 



232 THROUGH .NEBRASKA. 

western part of the state is somewhat colder than the 
eastern. In winter the westerly winds sweeping 
down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the 
thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero ; 
while in the summer a temperature of 100° and over 
is not unusual. In the southern tier of counties the 
mean temperature of the summer is 76 J°, and of 
winter, 30J°. The greatest amount of rain and snow 
fall (28 to 30 inches) falls in the Missouri valley, 
and thence westward the rainfall steadily decreases 
to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the 
western counties, and 12 inches in the south-western 
corner of the state. 

"Population. — Nebraska had in 1860 a popula- 
tion of 28,841, and in 1870, 122,993. Of these, 92- 
245 were natives of the United States, including 18,- 
425 natives of the state. The foreign born popula- 
tion numbered 30,748. 

"Education. — -Nebraska has more organized 
schools, more school houses, and those of a superior 
character ; more money invested in buildings, books, 
etc., than were ever had before in any state of the 
same age. The land endowed for the public schools 
embraces one-eighteenth of the entire area of the 
state — 2,'623,080 acres." The school lands are sold at 
not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield 
a fund of not less than $15,000,000, and are leased at 
from six to ten per cent interest on a valuation of 
$1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is invested in 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 233 

bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while 
the interest and income alone is used. 

The state is in a most excellent financial condition, 
and is abundantly supplied with schools, churches, 
colleges, and the various charitable and reformatory 
institutions. Every church is well represented in 
Nebraska. The Me'thodist stands first in numbers, 
while the Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational 
are of about equal strength. The Catholic church is 
fully represented. 

The United States census for 1880 shows that Ne- 
braska has the lowest percentage of illiteracy of any 
state in the Union. Iowa comes second. Allow me 
to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania : 

Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent 
cannot write; Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot 
read, 5.32 per cent cannot write. Total population 
of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891. 

Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the cen- 
tre of the United States, and has an average altitude 
of 1,500 feet above the level of the sea, varying from 
1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at the 
Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is 
noted for its salubrity, its wholesomeness, and health- 
fulness. The dryness of the air, particularly in the 
winter, is the redeeming feature of the low tempera- 
ture that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by 
strong, cold winds, yet the average temperature of the 
winter of 1882 was but 17°, and of the summer 70°. 
15 



234 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

I only wish to add that I have noticed that the 
western people in general have a much healthier and 
robust appearance than do eastern people. 

Later statistics than the United States census of 
1880 are not accessible for my present purpose, but 
the figures of that year — since which time there has 
been rapid developments — will £peak volumes for the 
giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union. 

The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted 
to $90,431,757, an increase of nearly forty per cent 
in ten years, being but $53,709,828 in 1870. Dur- 
ing the same time its population had increased from 
122,933 to 452,542, nearly four-fold. 

The present population of Nebraska probably ex- 
ceeds 600,000, and its capacity for supporting popu- 
lation is beyond all limits as yet. With a popula- 
tion as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the 
square mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 
souls. With as dense a population as Massachusetts, 
or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would have 17,- 
480,000 people. 

The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 
10,000 bushels in 1874 to 100,000 bushels in 1879, 
an average increase of 200 per cent per year. In 
1883 there was raised in the state : 

Wheat 27,48!,300. 

Corn 101,276,000. 

Oats 21,630,000. 

Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 235 

of agriculture, has prepared the following summary 

of all crop reports received by him up to Nov. 13, 

1883: 

Corn, yield per acre.Av^T 41 bushels. 

Quality .S 85 per cent. 

Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels. 

Quality 1 09 per cent. 

Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels. 

Quality Ill percent. 

Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a. 

Quality 107 per cent. 

Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons. 

Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent. 

Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent. 

Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent. 

Condition of orchards 100 per cent. 

Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent. 

Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 
5. Corn ready for market, Dec. 1. 

In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 
hogs, and in 1879 a total of 700,000, an increase of 
nearly 250 per cent. There are raised annually at 
the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and 
250,000 sheep. 

The high license liquor law was pasescl in Nebraska 
in 1883, requiring the paying of SI, 000 for license to 
sell liquor in a town of 1,000 inhabitants or more, 
and ^500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into the 
common school fund and must be paid before a drink 



236 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

is sold. ' Liquor dealers and saloon keepers are re- 
sponsible for all damages or harm done by or to those 
to whom they have sold liquor while under its influ- 
ence. 

During my stay of almost three months in the 
state, I saw but seven intoxicated men and I looked 
sharp and counted every one who showed the least 
signs of having been drinking. There are but few 
hotels in the state that keep a bar. I did not learn 
of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a population and but 
twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Ne- 
braska. 

I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the 
rights of married women. 

"The property, real and personal, which any woman 
in this state may own at the time of her marriage, and 
the rents, issues, profits, or proceeds thex^eof, and any 
real, personal, or mixed property which shall come to 
her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person ex- 
cept her husband, or which she shall acquire by pur- 
chase or otherwise, shall remain her sole and separate 
property, notwithstanding her marriage, and shall not 
be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable 
for his debts." 

"The property of the husband shall not be liable 
for any debt contracted by the wife before marriage." 

The overland pony express, which was the first reg- 
ular mail transportation across the state, was started 
in 1860 and lasted two vears. The distance from St. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 237 

Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was about 2,000 
miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal 
stations were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. 
Kearney, Neb. ; Laramie and Ft. Bridger, Wy. T. j 
Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, 
Nev.; PlacervilJe, Sacramento, and San Francisco, 
Cal. Express messengers left once a week with ten 
pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month; car- 
riage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. 
But in the two years the company's loss was $200,- 
000. Election news was carried from St. Joseph, 
Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in 
sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in 
Nebraska, 1862; now Nebraska can boast of nearly 
3,000 miles of railroad. 

I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic 
and enerprising people who come west. People who 
have the energy and enterprise that enable them to 
leave the old home and endure the privations of a 
new country for a few years that they may live much 
better in the " after while," than they could hope to 
do in the old home, and are a people of ambition and 
true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come 
west by those who have gone before and know what 
it is to be strangers in a strange land, is true kindness 
and hospitality, and but few fail to learn it well and 
profit by it, and are ready to teaeh it by precept and 
example to those who follow. It is the same lesson 
our dear great-grandfathers and mothers learned 



238 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

when they helped to fell the forests and make a 
grand good state out of " Penn's Woods." But their 
children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find 
that Pennsylvania has furnished Nebraska with some 
of her best people. Would it not be a good idea 
for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold 
Pennsylvania day, and every one who come from 
the dear old hills, meet and have a general hand- 
shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I 
know Nebraska could not but be proud of her Penn- 
sylvanian children. 

LINCOLN. 

In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, 
then in session at Omaha, appointing a commission 
consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of State T. P. 
Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select 
and locate a new capital out on the frontier. After 
some search the present capital site was chosen — then 
a wild waste of grasses, where a few scattered settlers 
gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that once 
a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lan- 
caster post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 
65 miles west of the Missouri river, and 1,114 feet 
above sea level, and on the "divide" between Ante- 
lope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots 
and broad streets, reserving ample ground for all 
necessary public buildings, and the new capital was 
named in honor of him for whom Columbia yet 
mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 239 

the state, a Methodist minister named Young had 
selected a part of the land, and founded a paper 
town and called it Lancaster. 

The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of 
the new state was as follows : The capital should be 
located upon lands belonging to the state, and the 
money derived from the sale of the lots should build 
all the state buildings and institutions. After the 
selection by the commission there was a slight rush 
for town lots, but not until the summer of '68 was the 
new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer, 
which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the 
bidders were so few and timid. In 1869, Col. George 
B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale of lots, and in 
that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. 
When he received his wages — $300 — he remarked 
that he would not give his pay for the whole town 
site. 

The building boom commenced at once, and early 
in '69 from 80 to 100 houses were built. The main 
part of the state house was begun in '67, but the first 
legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in 
January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered 
blocks a sufficient sum was realized to build the cap- 
itol building, costing $64,000, the State University, 
$152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and 
pay all other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold. 

The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,- 
000 in 1876. The post-office, a very imposing build- 



240 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

ing, was erected by the national government at a cost 
of 8200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were re- 
served for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well oc- 
cupied. The depot is a large brick building 183x53 
and three stories high, with lunch room, ladies' and 
gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room, 
and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph 
and land offices on the second and third floors. Ten 
trains arrive and depart daily carrying an aggregate 
of 1,400 passengers. The U. P. has ample railway 
accommodations. 

All churches and benevolent societies that applied 
for reservation were given three lots each, subject 
to the approval of the legislature, which afterward 
confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was 
organized in 1866 ; German Methodist, '67 ; Metho- 
dist Episcopal and Eoman Catholic, '68 ; Presbyter- 
ian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69 ; Univer- 
salis!, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored 
Baptist, '79. A number have since been added. 

The State Journal Co. On the 15th of Aug., 
1867, the day following the announcement that Lan- 
caster was the place for the capital site there appeared 
in the Nebraska City Press a prospectus for the pub- 
lication of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called 
the Nebraska Commonwealth, C. H. Gere, Editor. 
But not until the latter part of Nov. did it have an 
established office in the new city. In the spring of 
'69 the Commonwealth was changed to the Nebraska 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 241 

State Journal. As a daily it was first issued on the 
20th of July, 70, the day the B. & M. R. R. ran its first 
train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage coaches 
that had been the only means of transportation to the 
capital. In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into 
their handsome and spacious new building on the 
corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and 
brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th 
streets. The officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. 
Mendenhall, Vice Pres. j J. R. Clark, Sec, and H. 
D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 
to 125 hands. Beside the Journal are the Demo- 
crat and News, daily ; the Nebraska Farmer, semi 
monthly; the Capital, weekly; the Hesperian Stud- 
ent, monthly, published by the students of the Uni- 
versity, and the Staats Anzeiyer, a German paper, 
issued weekl^. 

On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought 
and found Xo. 1203 G street, just in time to again 
take tea with the Keefer family, and spend the night 
with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. 
But Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to 
slight the capital in that way, and to her I am in- 
debted for much of my siofht-seeing in and about 
Lincoln. 

Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to 
see a little of convict life. But the very little I saw 
made me wonder why any one who had once suffered 
imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless 



242 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

act. Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were 
lounging on the steps ready to take charge of the car- 
riages, for it was visitor's day. Only good behaved 
prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are al- 
lowed to step beyond the iron bars and stone walls. 
We were taken around through all the departments 
— the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where 
brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much 
that I cannot mention, are made. Then there was 
the foundry, blacksmith shop, and stone yard, where 
stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use 
at the capitol building. The long double row of 160 
cells are so built of stone and cement that when once 
the door of iron bars closes upon a prisoner he has 
no chance of exit. They are 4x7 feet, and furnished 
with an iron bedstead, and one berth above ; a stool, 
and a lap-board to write on. They are allowed to 
write letters every three weeks, but what they write 
is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read 
before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, 
a number of whom are from Wyoming. Their 
meals are given them as they pass to their cells. 
They were at one time seated at a table and given 
their meals together, but a disturbance arose among 
them and they used the knives and forks for weapons 
to fight with. And they carried them off secretly to 
their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his 
way through the wall. Only those who occupy the 
same cell can hold any conversation. Never a word 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 243 

is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with 
each other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, 
with bowed heads, uot even exchanging a word, and 
scarcely a glance, with their elbow neighbor, they 
work the long days through, from six o'clock until 
seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July 
they are given two or three hours in which they can 
dance, sing, and talk to each other, a privilege they 
improve to the greatest extent, and a general hand- 
shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. 
Sunday, at nine a.m., they are marched in close file 
to the chapel, where Rev. Howe, City Missionary, 
formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York, 
gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of 
Christ and Him Crucified, and of future reward and 
punishment, but no sectarian doctrines. He assures 
me some find the pearl of great price even within 
prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel 
and a choir composed of their best singers, and it is 
not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's daughter 
often accompanies her father and sings for them. 
They are readily brought to tears by the singing 
of Home, Sweet Home, and the dear old hymns. 
Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his 
services with them, and as we rapped for admittance 
behind the bars, the attendant said: "Make haste, 
the boys are coming"; and the iron door was quickly 
locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us 
chairs, and we watched the long line of convicte 



244 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

marching in, the right hand on the shoulder of 
the one before them, and their striped cap in the 
left. They filed into the seats and every arm was 
folded. It made me sigh to see the boyish faces, but 
a shudder would creep over me when, here and there, 
I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. 
As I looked into their faces I could not but think of 
the many little children I have talked to in happy 
school days gone by, and my words came back to 
me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget 
you, and I will always be watching to see what good 
men and women you make; great philanthropists, 
teachers, and workers in the good work, good minis- 
ters, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true 
justice, honest laborers, and who knows but that a 
future Mr. or Mrs. President sits before me on a 
school bench? Never, never allow me to see your 
name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little 
voices answer: "I'll be good, Teacher, I'll be good." 
But before me were men who, in their innocent days 
of childhood, had as freely and well- meaningly prom- 
ised to be good. But the one grand thought bright- 
ened the dark picture before me : God's great loving- 
kindness and tender mercy — a God not only to 
condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prison- 
ers, I am told, are here through intemperance. Oh, 
ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin with your rum by 
the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched 
drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler ! Why 



> 



ERRATA. 

Page 245, last line but one, in place of " Nebraska 
is visited " read " Nebraska is not visited." Third 
line from bottom leave out the word " not " fro 
commencement of line. 



4 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 245 

cannot you be men, such as your Creator intended 
you should be? I sometimes think God will punish 
the cause, while man calls the effect to account. For 
my part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the 
poorest drunkard from the ditch rather than to shake 
hands with the largest liquor dealer in the land, be 
he ever so good (?) Good ! He knows what he deals 
out, and that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the 
taint of ruined souls, souls for which he will have to 
answer for before the Great Judge who never granted 
a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury. 

Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane 
asylum, but we felt we had seen enough of sadness, 
and returned home. 

Friday. About tw r o p.m. the sky was suddenly 
darkened with angry looking clouds, and I watched 
them with interest as they grew more threatening and 
the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anx- 
ious to witness a cyclone, but if one must come, I 
wanted to watch its coming, and see all I could of it. 
But the winds swept the clouds rapidly by, and in a 
couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove 
out to see the only damage done, which was the 
partial wreck of a brick building that was being- 
erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of hail a 
few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop 
not in some places. This was the hardest storm 
seen during my stay in the state. Nebraska is 
visited, as some suppose, with the terrible cyclones 



24 (3 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

and wind storms that sweep over some parts of the 
AY est; nor have I experienced the constant wind that 
I was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more 
windy weather than does Pennsylvania. 

The sun comes down with power, and when the 
day is calm, is very oppressive; bnt the cool eve- 
nings revive and invigorate all nature. 

Saturday we spent in seeing the city from center 
to suburb and drinking from the artesian well in the 
government square. The water has many medical 
properties, and is used as a general " cure-all. n 

Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the Uni- 
versity, we had a fine view of the city, looking north, 
east, south, and west, far over housetops. Many are 
fine buildings of stone and brick, and many beautiful 
residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 
and 120 feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are ap- 
propriated for sidewalks, five of which, in all but the 
business streets, is the walk proper — built of stone, 
brick, or plank — and the remaining eleven feet are 
planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the 
door yards. 

The streets running north and south are numbered 
from first to twenty-fifth street. Those from east to 
west are lettered from A to W. 

Saturday evening — a beautiful moonlight night — 
just such a night as makes one wish for a ride. Who 
can blame me if I take one? A friend has been' 
telling how travelers among the Rockies have to 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 247 

climb the mountains on mountain mules or burros. 
My curiosity is aroused to know if when I reach the 
foot of Pike's Peak, L can ascend. It would be aggra- 
vating to go so far and not be able% reach the Peak 
just because I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. 
K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a neighbor's boy, to 
bring his burro over after dark. All saddled, Fan- 
ny waits at the door, and I must go. 

Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip 
whan I get back — I'll telegraph you at the nearest 
station. (Don't be uneasy about me; I am told that 
burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me 
I have only three feet to fell. I wonder what her 
great ears are for — but a happy thought strikes me, 
and I hang my poke hat on one and start. I 

One by one her feet are lifted, 

One by one she sets them down: 
Step by step we leave the gatepost, 

And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle, 

when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the 
middle. Well, you cannot expect me to write poetry 
and go at this rate of speed. My thoughts and the 
muses can't keep pace with the donkey. 

Most time to telegraph back to my friends who 
waved me away so grandly. But, dear me, I have 
been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night, and 
thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak — 
if I ever reached the foot of the mountain, — that 
I did not notice that Fanny had crept round the 



248 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate- 
post. Another start, and Fanny's little master fol- 
lows to whip her up; but she acts as though she 
wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg him 
to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, 
you were created to creep along the dangerous moun- 
tain passes with your slow, cautious tread, and I won't 
try to force you into a trot. 

Well, I went up street and down street, and then 
gave my seat to Hettie Keefer. 

"What does it eat?" I asked. 

"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just 
anything at all." 

I wish I could tell you all about this queer little 
Mexican burro, but Hettie is back, and it is time to 
say good night. 

In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus ne- 
groes that Nebraska was asked to provide for a few, 
and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln. Near 
Mr. K.\s home, they have a little church painted a 
crushed strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our 
curiosity led us right in among these poor negroes so 
lately from the rice and cotton fields and cane brakes 
of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their 
worship. They call themselves Baptist, but, ignor- 
ant of their church belief, requested the Rev. Mr. 
Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist church, to 
come and baptise their infants. 

I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 249 

countenance behind, but had no use for it in that 
way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so earnest in 
the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, 
and I wore an expression of pity instead. 

The paint is all on the outside of the house, and 
the altar, stand and seats are of rough make up. The 
whole audience turned the whites of their eyes upon 
us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a power- 
ful son of Africa arose and said : 
/"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if 
ye'll pray for me for about the short space of fifteen 
minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And Moses lifted up 
his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon 
dat rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had 
what they called sarpents, but in dese days we call 
dem snakes, and if any one was bit by a snake and 
would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake 
bite." How earnestly he talk to his " chilens " for 
de short space of time, until he suddenly broke off 
and said with a broad grin: "Now my time is up. 
Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder 
knelt in prayer the audience remained seated, hid 
their faces in their hands, and with their elbows rest- 
ing on their knees, swayed their bodies to a continual 
humumum, and kept time with their feet ; the louder 
the prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer 
could not be heard. One little Topsy sat just op- 
posite us keeping time to the prayer by bobbing her 
bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers 
16 



250 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

much too large for her, showing the ragged edges of 
a heelless stocking, while she eyed "de white folks 
in de corner." After prayer came the singing, if such 
it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn 
from the only hymn book in the house, and as he 
ended the last word he began to sing in the same 
breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter 
whether it was long, short, or particular meter, they 
could drawl out one word long enough to make six 
if necessary, and skip any that was in the way. It 
was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is be- 
yond description, and must be heard to be appreciated. 
But the minister cut the singing short, by saying: 
" Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I 
was very much afraid he was getting "Love among 
the roses" mixed in with the hymn. While they 
sang, a number walked up to the little pine table and 
threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with 
as much pride and pomp as though they gave great 
sums, some making two trips. Two men stood at 
the table and reached out each time a piece of money 
was put down to draw it into the pile; but with all 
their caution they could not hinder one girl from 
taking up, no doubt, more than she put down, and 
not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly 
snatched a piece of money without even pretending to 
throw some down. The minister closed with a ben- 
ediction, and then announced that " Brudder Alex- 
ander would exhort to ye to-night and preach de 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 251 

gospel pint forward; and if de Lord am willin, I'll 
be here too." 

A number gathered around and gave us the right 
hand of fellowship with an invitation to come again, 
which we gladly accepted, and evening found us again 
in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes. 

Brudder Alexander began with : " Peace be unto 
dis house while I try to speak a little space of time, 
while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text am de 
first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. ' Then 
Joshua commanded the officers of the people, saying/ 
Now Joshua was a great wrastler and a war-man, and 
he made de walls of Jericho to fall by blowen on de 
horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget 
de book of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de 
first bishop of Rome, but de Lord had on old worn- 
out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat moldy 
bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, 
and don't I magine it will be terrible when de angel 
will come wid a big horn, and he'll give a big blah 
on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and 
de smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will 
open up its mouth and not count the cost of houses. 
And look-a-yah ! I hear dem say, de Rocky moun- 
tains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow- 
mates, I clar I heard clem say, if ye be a child of 
God, hold out and prove faithful, and ye'll receive the 
crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is ex- 
pended." 



252 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

And with this we left them" to enjoy their prayer 
meeting alone, while we came home, ready to look 
on the most ridiculous picture that can be drawn by 
our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a 
true representation. Poor children, no wonder the 
"true blue 7 ' fought four long years to set you free 
from a life of bondage that kept you in such utter 
ignorance. 

Monday morning I felt all the time I had for 
Lincoln had been "expended," and I bade my kind 
friends of the capital good-bye. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 253 



CHAPTER VI. 

Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Penn- 
sylvania. The Kinzna bridge and Niagara Falls. — The 
conclusion. 

Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the 
U. P. R. R. for Fremont. Passed fields of corn 
almost destroyed by the hail storm of last Friday. 
It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the 
stubble of what but a few days ago was promising 
fields of corn. We followed the storm belt until near 
Wah oo, where we again looked on fine fields. At 
Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a 
tiresome wait of a couple of hours. I was surprised 
to see a town in Nebraska that seemed to be on the 
stand -still, but was told that it was too near Omaha 
and Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us 
to Fremont. The first person I saw at the depot was 
Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before she had 
reccognized me, I put my arm about her and said : 
"Did you come to meet me, Mrs. Euber?" 

" Why, Sims, is this you ! I thought you had gone 
back east long ago." 

After promising to spend my time with her, I went 
to speak to Mr. Reynolds, to whom I had written 
that I expected to be in Fremont the previous week. 



254 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

"Well," he said, "you have a great siu to answer 
for; when I received your card, I ordered a big bill 
of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a great lot of 
good things prepared for your entertainment; and 
when you didn't come, I almost killed myself eating 
them up." 

Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much 
misery. I left him, promising to call for any he might 
have left, which I did, and I found he had not eaten 
them all — which quite relieved my guiltiness. I 
called on Mrs. IS". Turner, one of Fremont's earliest 
settlers, from whom I learned much of the early his- 
tory of the country. She said as she shook my hand 
at parting: "I sincerly hope you will have a safe 
journey home, and find your dear mother well ! " 

"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have 
wished me any thing better." Nothing can be more 
pleasant to me than to thus snatch acquaintances here 
and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we 
meet, yet I reap many good impressions/ and many 
pleasing memories are stored away for future refer- 
ence, in quiet hours/ 

Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with 
aching temples; but the thought that I was really 
going home at last, soon relieved my indisposition, 
and I was ready to write as I went ; eastward bound, 
over level country of good pasture and hay lands. 
Land, that, when we passed over the 26th April was 
void of a green spear; trees that then swayed their 



THKOUGH NEBRASKA. 255 

budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy 
boughs. Said good-bye to the winding Elkhorn 
river, a little way east of Fremont. 

Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. 
Why! here we are at Blair; but I have told of Blair 
before, so will go on to the Missouri river. And as 
we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car 
where I can see the spray, and as I look down into 
the dark water and watch the furrow the boat leaves 
in the waves, I wonder where are all those that 
crossed over with me to the land I have just left. 
Some have returned, but the majority have scattered 
over the plains of Northwestern Nebraska. I was 
aroused from my sad reverie by an aged gentleman 
who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the 
way we cross the river? My! how strong the water 
must be to bear us up ! Oh, clear ! Be careful, Sis, 
or you might fall off when the boat jars against the 
shore." 

"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I 
will fall right in the boat or skiff swung at the stern. " 
I did not then know that to fall into the Missouri river 
is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed with 
the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to 
bottom — but we landed without a jar or jolt and 
leave the muddy waves for the sandy shores of Iowa. 

Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home 
going — of my visit at Marshalltown, Iowa, with the 
Pontious family — dear old friends of my grand- 



256 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

parents; at Oswego, 111., with an uncle; at Tiffin and 
Mansfield, Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard 
and saw along the way. Allow me to skip along and 
only sketch the way here and there. 

Jnly 30, 5:30 p.m. "Will you tell me, please, 
when we cross the Pennsylvania state line ? I asked 
of the conductor. "Why, we crossed the line ten 
miles back." And I just put my hand out of the 
window and shake hands with the dear old state and 
throw a kiss to the hills and valleys, and that rocky 
bank covered with flowering vines. I thought there 
was an air of home in the breezes. 

The sun was going down, and shadows growing 
long when we stopped at Meadville, and while others 
took supper I walked to the rear of the depot to the 
spot where our party had snow-balled only three 
months ago. The snow has melted, the merry party 
widely separated, and alone I gather leaves that then 
were only buds, and think. Ah ! their bright expec- 
tations were all in the bud then. Have they unfold- 
ed into leaves as bright as these I gather? 

Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, 
and call it dear old "Pa." But could my parents go 
with me I feel I would like to return again to Ne- 
braska, for though I could never love it as I always 
shall the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to 
very highly respect and esteem Nebraska for its worth 
as a state, and for the kind, intelligent people it holds 
within its arms. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 257 

As I take my seat in the car, a young, well- 
dressed boy sits near ine in a quiet state of intoxica- 
tion. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I have 
seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during 
my three months' stay in Nebraska. So much good 
for the high license law. If you cannot have prohi- 
bition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all 
the little groggeries and make those who will have it, 
pay the highest price. Poor boy ! You had better 
go to Nebraska and take a homestead. 

" Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old 
hills and it is too dark to see, so I sing to myself. My 
" fellow mates " hear the hum and wonder what 
makes me so happy. They don't know I am going 
home, do they? 

" Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and 
soon I am speeding on to B. over the R. & P. road. 
Two young men and myself are the sole occupants of 
the car. 

" Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one 
asks of the other. 

" At the (naming one of the best hotels) gen- 
erally, but they starve a fellow there. In fact, they 
do at all the hotels; none of them any good." 

"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 an- 
swers, and I cuddle down to sleep, fully assured that 
I am really near Bradford, where everything is "no 
good," and "just too horrid for anything." Sup- 
pose those young dandies are "Oil Princes" — "Coal 



25$ THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

Oil Johnnies," you know — and can smash a hotel 
just for the amusement, but can't pay for their fun. 

"When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched 
me tug at my satchels as I got off, all alone, in the 
darkness of the midnight hour. I knew my brother 
would not be expecting me, and had made up my 
mind to take the street cars and go to the St. James. 
But no street cars were in waiting and only one car- 
riage. 

"Go to the , lady?" 

"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and 
giving my satchels in the ticket agent's care, I start- 
ed out in the darkness, across the bridge, past dark 
streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open 
saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. 
So I kept an eye looking out on each side while I 
walked straight ahead with as firm and measured 
tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, 
and I guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, 
for he gave me an elegant suite of rooms with three 
beds. I gave two of them to my imaginary guards, 
and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that 
He had brought me safely so near home. 

"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the 
morning. 

" Seventy-five cents." 

I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! 
Won't you please take fifty?" 

"Why?" 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 259 

"Because it is all the money I have, except a 
nickel." 

"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I 
jingled my fifty cents on the counter as loudly as 
though it was a whole dollar, but could not help 
laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. 
The several little extras I had met with had taken 
about all. 

I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding- 
place and surprised him at the breakfast table. 

August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or 
rather, the city of rocks, just across the New York 
line. Houses of rock they are in size, but are only 
inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe 
them to you, reader. All I know is, they are con- 
glomerate rocks, made up of snowy white pebbles 
from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that glisten 
in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. 
As I dig and try to dislodge the brightest from its 
bed of hardened sand, I wonder how God made the 
cement that holds them so firmly in place, and how 
and why He brought these rocks to the surface just 
here and nowhere else. Down, around, and under 
the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the great crev- 
ices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with 
the many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded 
in making "our mark." They are one of the beau- 
tiful, wonderful things that are beyond description. 

Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pitts- 



260 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

burgh R. R. for DuBois. Took a last look at Main 
street with its busy throng, and then out among the 
grand old hills that tower round with their forests 
of trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, 
Custer City, Howard Junction, and crossing east 
branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is dumped 
down in wild confusion here — mountains and val- 
leys, hills and hollows, houses and shanties, tanks 
and derricks, rocks and stones, trees, bushes, flowers, 
logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed with 
bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson 
over the waters and lade the air with their perfume. 
On we go past lots of stations, but there are not many 
houses after we get fairly out of the land of derricks. 
Through cuts and over tressels and fills — but now 
we are 17 miles from B., and going slowly over the 
great Kinzua bridge, which is the highest railway 
bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abut- 
ment to abutment, and the height of rail above the 
bed of the creek is 302 feet. Kinzua creek is only a 
little stream that looks like a thread of silver in the 
great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth 
ever again produce such a grand forest for her chil- 
dren ? Well, for once I feel quite high up in the 
world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the hon- 
ors that were heaped upon him while he "swung 
around the circle," never felt so elevated as he did 
when he came to see this bridge, and exclaimed while 
crossing it, " Judas Priest, how high up we are!" 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 261 

It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I 
do not experience the fear I expected I would. The 
bridge is built wide, with foot walks at either side, 
and the cars run very slow. 

One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that 
can be seen excepting trees. I do hope the woodman 
will spare this great valley — its noble trees untouched 
— and allow it to forever remain as one of Pennsyl- 
vania's grandest forest pictures. 

Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, 
beautiful mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their 
rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500 feet above sea level. 
But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond description, 
so are the mountains. 

J. R. Buchanan says : " No one can appreciate God 
until he has trod the plains and stood upon the 
mountain peaks.'' 

To see and learn of these great natural features of 
our land but enlarges our love for the Great Creator, 
who alone could spread out the plains and rear the 
mountains, and enrich them with just what His chil- 
dren need. To wind around among and climb the 
broad, rugged mountains of Pennsylvania is to be 
constantly changing views of the most picturesque 
scenery of all the states of the Union. 

Arrived at DuBois 5 p.m. This road has only been 
in use since in June, .and the people gather round as 
though it was yet a novelty to see the trains come in. 
I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand, 



262 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smath- 
ers\ There stood Francis watching the darkies pass 
on their way to camp meeting; but when he recog- 
nized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran 
on before to tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. 
I could not wait until I reached the "wee Marga- 
retta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, 
and were not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for 
all this mercy ! and the new moon looked down upon 
us, and looked glad t too. These were glad, happy 
days, but I was not yet home. Father and Norval 
came in a few days, Norval to go with Charley 
to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home. 

"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl 
after all your wandering," father said, as he wiped 
his eyes after the first greeting : 

"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is 
much healthier looking than when she went away," 
Maggie said. 

August 10. Father and I started early for a forty 
mile drive home, through farming and timber coun- 
try. About one-third is cleared land, the rest is 
woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was 
fed, and we sat down under pine trees and took our 
lunch of dried buffalo meat from the west, peaches 
from the south, and apples from home. Well, I 
thought, that is just the way this w T orld gets mixed 
up. It takes a mixture to make a good dinner, and 
a mixture to make a good world. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 263 

While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town). 
I read the sign over a shed, " Farming Implements. 77 
I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and something 
else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help 
comparing the great stock of farming implements 
seen in every little western town. 

Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad 
roads, up hill and down we go, until we cross Little 
Mahoning — bless its bright waters !-^and once more 
I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town — the 
snuggest, dearest little town I ever did see ! and sur- 
rounded by the prettiest hills. If I was'nt so tired, 
I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two 
miles farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun 
sends its last rays aslant through the orchard, we halt 
at the gate of " Centre Plateau," and as I am much 
younger than father, I get out and swing wide the 
gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a " wel- 
come home " on its rusty hinges once more, and while 
father drives down the lane I slip through a hole 
in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase 
Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do 
you do/ 7 to Goody and her calf, and start Prim 
into a trot; and didn't we all run across the meadow 
to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for 
me. 

" Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at 
last, 77 I said, "and won 7 t leave you soon again ! 77 

Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped 



264 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

along the path into the house, and Hattie (Charlie's 
wife) and I made such a fuss that we frightened 
Emma and Harry into a cry. 

I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, 
and while she strains it away, I tell her all about 
Uncle John's and the rest of the friends. 

Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a 
slice of my dear mother's bread and butter, and have 
some cream for your blackberries, and now let's eat. 
I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And 
how good to go to my own little room, and thank 
God for this home coming at my own bedside, and 
then lay me down to sleep. 

Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit 
and friends to see and tell all about my trip, and 
how I liked the West. Then " Colonel " was hitched 
up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride* to 
visit Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to 
greet us, then dear May, shy little Frantie, and 
squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed — but 
where is Will ? 

" Out at the oats field?" 

" Come, May, take me to your papa ; I can't wait 
until supper time to see him." Together we climb 
the hill, then through the woods to the back field. 
Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the 
"skeeters," I go through the stubble. Stones are 
plenty, and I throw one at him. Down goes the cradle 
and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!" 



THEOUGH NEBRASKA. 265 

As we trudge down the hill, I said: 

" Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to 
climb, and can do your farming with so much less 
labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a scythe while 
I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own 
state." 

" Well, I would like to go if father and mother 
could go too, but I will endure the extra work here 
for the sake of being near them. If they could go 
along I would like to try life in the West." 

Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I 
want to have my book out by the last of September. 
I had just got nicely interested, when mother puts her 
head in at the door, and says, with such a disap- 
pointed look : 

" Oh ! are you at your writing ? I wanted you to 
help me pick some huckleberries for supper." 

Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? 
The writing is put aside, and we go down the lane to 
the dear old woods, and the huckleberries are gath- 
ered. 

Seated again 

"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to 
be my chore boy while Xorval is away. Come, I'd 
like you to turn the grindstone for me while I make 
a corn cutter." 

Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, 
good father? 

There stood father with a broken " sword of Bun- 
17 



266 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

ker Hill " in his hand that he found on the battle 
field of Banker Hill, in Virginia. 

" Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel 
sword, I'll willingly turn until it is all ground up; 
but if it is a Union sword, why then, " Hang the 
old sword in its place/' and sharpen up your old 
corn cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plow- 
shares now even though it be a time of peace." 

I lock the door and again take up my pen. " Rat- 
tle, rattle at the latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? 
Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt Pet !" comes in 
baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly 
turned, and my little golden-haired a niece " and 
" lover " invade my sanctum sanctorum, and for a 
time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on the cheeks, 
mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little 
lover puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, 
who wouldn't be a martyr to kisses — I mean baby 
kisses ? 

Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches 
were ripe, an4 then came the apples — golden apples, 
rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown. And didn't 
we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry 
until I finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire 
to the dry house. The cold days came before I got 
rightly settled down to write again, and although 
cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, 
while the thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have 
to do is. to take up a cracked slate and write. But I 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 267 

write right over the crack now until the slate is filled, 
and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all 
over again j eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding 
behind oxen and mules, crossing the Niobrara, view- 
ing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone Butte, walking 
the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as 
though I was running the gauntlet, while the cow- 
boys line the walks. Government mules are run- 
ning off with me, now I am enjoying the " Pilgrim's 
Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every 
day lived over again in fond memory. And through 
it I learn a lesson of faith and trust. 

So I wrote away until February 16, when I again 
left my dear home for the west, to have my book 
published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left 
Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P. R.R, 
The country along this road presents a wild picture, 
but I fear it would be a dreary winter scene were I 
to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet piled 
high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the 
Michigan Central R. R. for Chicago. I catch a 
glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave Buffalo, and then 
we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, 
I will do the best I can to tell you of my car- 
window view of Niagara. We approach the Falls 
from the south, and cress the new suspension bridge, 
about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the 
bridge we see the whirlpool, where Capt, Webb, in 
his reckless daring, lost his life. The river here is 



268 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 
feet deep. The banks of the river are almost per- 
pendicular, and about 225 feet from top to the 
water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch 
only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, 
and it is snowing quite hard ; but enough is seen to 
make it a grand picture. Across the bridge, and 
we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Di- 
rectly south we go, following close to the river. When 
we are opposite the Falls the train is stopped for a 
few minutes, while we all look and look again. Had 
the weather been favorable, I would have been 
tempted to stop and see all that is to be seen. But I 
expect to return this way at a more favorable time, 
and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly 
by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the 
day was clear, I am told a rainbow could be seen 
arching through the mist. The banks of the river 
above the Falls are low, and we can look over a 
broad sheet of blue water. But after it rushes over 
the Falls it is lost to our view. I wish I could tell 
you more, and tell it better, but no pen can do justice 
to Niagara Falls. 

I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did 
not see more prairie or leveler land in the west than 
I did in passing through Canada. The soil is dark 
red clay, and the land low and swampy. 

A little snow was to be seen along the way, but 
not as much as in New York; the country does not 



THEOUGH NEBRASKA. 269 

look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected farms; 
here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the 
Detroit river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but 
it is dark and I can only see the reflection of the 
electric light on the water as we cross to the Michi- 
gan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. 
I did not get to see much of Michigan as we reached 
Chicago at eight, Friday morning. But there was a 
friend there to meet me with whom I spent five days 
in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday. I 
attended some of the principal churches and was sur- 
prised at the quiet dress of the people generally and 
also to hear every one join in singing the good old 
tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday- 
school in one of the bad parts of the city, where 
children are gathered from hovels of vice and sin 
by a few earnest christian people who delight in 
gathering up the little ones while they are easily in- 
fluenced. AVell, I thought, Chicago is not all wicked 
and bad. It has its philanthropists and earnest chris- 
tian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, 
Lincoln Park was visited, and how I did enjoy it- 
pleasant walks on that bright day, and throwing pebbles 
into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the pan- 
orama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't 
ask me anything about it, only if you are in Chicago 
while it is on exhibition, go to corner AVabash avenue 
and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look 
for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked 



270 THEOUGH NEBRASKA. 

around, and felt that I had just woke up among the 
hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among the beauti- 
ful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked 
upon. The picture was life size and only needed the 
boom of the artillery and the groans of the dying to 
give it life. Wednesday morning brother Charles 
came with a party of twenty, bound for the Platte 
Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them 
as they went over the C. & N. W. R. R., and as 
I had been over that road, I wished to go over the 
C. B. & Q. R. R. for a change; so we met only to 
separate. I left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a 
way traveled over the same road that I have before 
described. There is not much to tell of prairie land 
in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. 
We crossed the Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 
miles from Chicago, but it is night and we are deprived 
of seeing what would be an interesting view. In- 
deed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as 
so much of it is passed over in the night. 482 miles 
from Chicago, we cross the Missouri river at Platts- 
mouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln, ar- 
riving there at 12 m. March 27. I surprised Deacon 
Keefer's again just at tea-time. Mother Keefer. re- 
ceived me with open arms, and my welcome was most 
cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home 
with them during my stay in Lincoln. 

My next work was to see about the printing of 
my book. I met Mr. Hathaway, of the State Journal 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 271 

Co., and found their work and terms satisfactory, and 
on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year 
from the day our colony left Bradford and the work 
of writing my book began, I made an agreement 
with the Journal company for the printing of it. I 
truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a 
year of hard labor. 

How often when I was busy plying the pen with 
all heart in the work, kind friends who wished me 
well would come to me with words of discourage- 
ment and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying : 

"I do not see how you are to manage about its 
publication, and all the labor it involves." 

" I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I 
do the work cheerfully, and to the best of my abil- 
ity, and ' bearing well my burden in the heat of the 
day/ that the dear Lord who cared for me all 
through my wanderings while gathering material 
for this work, and put it into the hearts of so many 
to 1 ((friend me, will not forsake me at the last." 

"Did He forsake me," do you ask? 

"No, not for one moment." When asked for the 
name of some one in Lincoln as security, I went to 
one of my good friends who put their name down 
without hesitation. 

"What security do you want of me?" I asked. 

"Nothing, only do the best you can with vour 
book." 

"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in 



272 THROUGH NEBRASKA. 

answer to my many prayers that when the way was 
dark, and my task heavy, helping hands would be 
reached out to me." 

"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will 
carry you through, so keep up brave heart, and do 
not be discouraged." 

I would like to tell you the name of this good 
friend, but suffice it to say he is one whom, when but a 
lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his confidence, and by 
example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness 
such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach. 

Friday, May 9th. I went to Wyniore to pay my 
last visit to my dear aunt, fearing that I would not 
find her there. But the dear Father spared her life 
and she was able to put her arms about me and wel- 
come me with : " The Lord is very good to bring you 
to me in time. I was afraid you would come too late." 
Sunday her spirit went down to the water's edge and 
she saw the lights upon the other shore and said : 
"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I 
would cross over just now." But life lingered and I 
left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me this 
message : " Mother has just fallen asleep." With this 
shadow of sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day 
to begin my Maying of J 84 with a row on the river 
and a sun-set view on the Blue. 

" Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting ?" I 
asked, as I looked up to the western sky at the beau- 
tiful picture, and down upon the mirror of waters, 
and saw its reflection in its depth. 



THROUGH NEBRASKA. 273 

The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful ; 
not a cloud flecked the sky all the livelong day. We 
gathered the violets so blue and the leaves so green of 
Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other 
May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home 
who were keeping my May-day in the old familiar 
places. 

Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of 
our Maying at Milford, and just at the close of day, 
when evening breathes her benediction, friends gath- 
ered round while two voices repeated: "With (jhis 
ring I thee wed. By this token I promise to love 
and cherish." 

And now reader, hoping that I may some day 
meet you in my "Diary of a Minister's Wife," I bid 
you Good-Bye. 




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